Sorry to simply copy and paste a reply of mine from another post, but most of it fits true in this topic too.
Well this is funny because I have a B18C5 hatch and a B16A2 hatch and sorry to say but there is no comparison.
The B16A2 dynoed 143whp and 102torque with i/h/e and re-chipped P28 ECU.
The B18C5 dynoed 175whp and 123ft-lbs. of torque to the wheels.
After tuning the B18C5 is doing 177/130 and it pulls hella harder than the B16 does...
...as well it should (because the B18C5 costs way more than a B16A), but know that I also have a friend who did a fully built B16A (but kept it 1.6L) with Toda B cams, higher /cr pistons, P&P'd head, etc. SMS Products header and exhaust (most expensive, best stuff out there pretty much) and he dynoed 177 with like 120 torque (tuned) and spent much more than you would for a B18C5 motor. And his car didn't like to idle much either. I'm not hating, because he worked that motor over to ba very bad-***, but he did it the hard way.
Just cams alone in a nice B18C5 can net 190's fairly easily, with a few guys running 200whp on JUN3 cams with stock JDM 11:1 CR bottom ends and stock heads with only cams and valvetrain being different.
IMO you cannot beat a stock O.E Honda build, and I beat the **** out of my B18C5 pretty much every day and before tuning (where I picked up +20whp and +20ft-lbs. of torque from 4000rpm-7000rpm) the 2040lb. 1992 Cx was turning 13.3@101mph on a 2.0 60 footer. 1.8 60 footers (easy with nice slicks) will yield high 12's.
Depending on year and model of your CR-X a properly-running B18C5 should net anywhere from 13.5-12.7. The 12.7 or so would be in a 1988 HF. the 13.5 on slicks would be like the 1990-1991 Si which is actually hella heavy compared to some other year hatches and CR-Xs.
What kind of 1989 Rex do you have? Does it have the seatbelts in the doors or the car itself? That makes a big difference in weight believe it or not.
Something to remember in your car is that the hydro Type R tranny won't work without some custom work.
Contact LHT Performance in FLA and ask aboiut their hydro tranny kits for your CR-X. That's the way to go IMO because cable B trannies tend to crap out too soon from what I've seen.
If you want the easy way out, then sell off the ITR tranny for an easy $1,000.00-$1,200.00 and then buy a J1 tranny for about $400.00 or so (w/o LSD) and the add an LSD for another $800.00 (Quaife) and whatever labor you;'ll end up paying. You 'll probably break even or shell out a few hundred extra for a cable tranny and new LSD installed.
As far as engine management goes, sell the ITR ECU as it will either be OBD2 (USDM) or OBD2 plug with OBD1 program (JDM) and it will be useless for you.
Either convert the car to OBD1 via a harness or have a PR3/PW0 (first-gen B16A JDM ECU) re-chipped to ITR specs or better. Or if you have the loot, convert to OBD1 and run a Hondata S200 and have a custom program burned for you on the dyno after tuning.
Am I moving too fast?