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The engine block is stripped and ready to go to the machine shop for cleaning, prep, and machine work. The head was stripped and sent out to Portflow for cleaning, prep, and headwork. It has been bagged and stored since I got it back.
B16A3 MOD0 will consist of a rebuild of the existing B16A3 block to factory specs along with some additional machine work to improve the internals, and improvements to the B16 head to help it flow better while staying within the SCCA SM Class Regulations.
Block - My plan for the machine work is to chamfer the oil journals in the crank, balance the rotation assembly, and WPC coat the internals to reduce friction and improve performance. I will also be installing ARP rod bolts, main studs, and head studs. The only lightening to the rotating assembly that I am planning to do is through the use of a different pulley and lightened flywheel. I’m going to stick with the stock PR3 pistons instead of bumping the compressions with the JDM P30 pistons. I have calculated my compression ratio to be between 10.13 and 10.29 depending on which head gasket I use.
Head –Headwork consisted of replacement of valves with factory ITR valves, opening the intake runners like an ITR head, and polishing the bowls. I also had new valve guides installed and when the head returned I installed a set of Crower springs and retainers.
Head Work Photos
Block Photo
Rods, Pistons, and Hardware Bagged and Tagged
Always mark your rods and caps.
Block waiting with its big brother.
There will be more parts info as I begin to assemble the motor. This buildup will be focused on getting passed smog with other upgrades happening with the B16A3 MOD1 buildup (coming later) which will be focused on the autocross aspect of this build with cam upgrades and other items.
^ IMO you're gonna be outgunned with a b16 without boost.
I understand your carb issues, but you can still boost legally in CA.
I appreciate your opinion and I realize I can boost in CA and remain smog legal. I have left myself some room to do so in the future if it should ever be an avenue I want to travel. More than likely it will be through the installation of a JRSC. But only time will tell.
Here is a Clutch question for everyone. In the past I have always run an ACT Clutch and Pressure Plate but before I purchase my clutch for this project I wanted to see if anyone could give me some insight on other manufacturers products.
I currently have a ACT HD Pressure Plate and I was planning the run a ACT Performance Organic Street Disc. Does Exedy or another manufacturer have a better product I should be looking at instead?
For a mostly stock B16A, I don't think you can beat what you have experience with. Exedy makes an awesome product. Competition Clutch makes a good clutch, but most often used at higher power levels. ACT makes a fine product too. That's what I am currently running in my B16A and I'd keep running it if it could hold more torque.
TL;DR
I'd stick with ACT since you have a pressure plate. Better is very subjective.
I believe you may want to be careful with that hush hydro conversion and which clutch components you pair together. apparently the longevity of the hush system set up is in question with anything but stock clutch components. in the past was it a cable type transmission you were using? the hush system does seem legitimate but i had heard some trouble came up when heavier grab came into play. i think that was with a 88crx and a b18c5 not sure the transmission that was paired. the pedals are different but may be worth being cautious.
I believe you may want to be careful with that hush hydro conversion and which clutch components you pair together. apparently the longevity of the hush system set up is in question with anything but stock clutch components. in the past was it a cable type transmission you were using? the hush system does seem legitimate but i had heard some trouble came up when heavier grab came into play. i think that was with a 88crx and a b18c5 not sure the transmission that was paired. the pedals are different but may be worth being cautious.
If you have a reference I'd appreciate it. I think they might have fix the problems in their newer versions.
If you have a reference I'd appreciate it. I think they might have fix the problems in their newer versions.
I think he may have it backwards actually. The cable transmissions pull through the firewall with high pull clutches. Some companies use the same stock cable to run to a converter on the hydro transmission. The cable actuates the hydraulic device. Hush actually coverts the pedal to hydraulic at the firewall and uses a hardline to the clutch. I'm not sure how the older hush units operated, but I do not believe this is any issue anymore.
it is very possible this is this case. it was an older system about four years ago i think and I'm not up to date with any changes they may have made. it does sound like the same problem that came up with the cable and actuator presenting the problem. not sure if the actuator was in the bay or on the pedals. hopefully it was changed because it is a very nice looking system. let me find out specifics and which generation hush system that was used.
it is very possible this is this case. it was an older system about four years ago i think and I'm not up to date with any changes they may have made. it does sound like the same problem that came up with the cable and actuator presenting the problem. not sure if the actuator was in the bay or on the pedals. hopefully it was changed because it is a very nice looking system. let me find out specifics and which generation hush system that was used.
I believe it was the older units that bolted to the transmission and used the stock clutch cable that had these issues. Since then they have retrofit hydraulic pedals under the dash. I'm not sure what the OP has though. Due to the length of him owning the car and the start date of this project, he could be within the dates of this issue.
Regardless, he is using a mostly stock B16A with a relatively close to factory clutch. I do not think he will have issues even if it is an older style conversion kit.
I ran the ACT HD Pressure plate and SS disc for one season in my old DA and didn't run into any problems with the clutch cable. This will be the first time running the HUSH setup and I have spent hours searching for bad stuff but have not run across anything negative with their new setup. But time will tell.
I thought I would post some hump day photos for everyone. Not much has been happening the last couple days as I pulled a muscle Sunday moving stuff. Hope to be better soon so I can get back at it.
Looking good man. I have always wanted to do b16/b18 but I don't have the time with the military right now. Did you hurt your back? If so, go see a doctor. I tried to hold off after hurting my back working for mayflower while waiting to go active duty. It could have cost me my commission. My father used to tell me backs are like cars. Once you jack them up they are never the same. My injury was two years ago now and it still hurts when I hump with a heavy pack.
Yeah I saw the doc today he said it wasn't bad and gave me some anti-inflams and told me to avoid lifting anything for two weeks. So I'm taking it easy for the next little bit.
. I also had the opportunity to drive Katman’s Black sheep Civic with the B17A before it was stolen by some unscrupulous individuals.
Good grief - that was eons ago!
What steering rack are you planning to use?
If you go with an Si, please mention what mods (if any) are required to use the SiR knuckles.
I used SiR knuckles before and had modded the tie rods - people claim no modding necessary for Si rack.
Surprised you aren't posting this on the hybrid.jp board :p
Haha... I forgot all about the hybrid board I haven't been on that thing in years. I feel so dated. I remember buying parts from JHP when they were just starting out. Its funny how time fly's.
I wanted to update everyone on whats been going on, simply said "not much". Had a few positive and negative events happen over the last two weeks.
Positives are my back is feeling a lot better and I received a package of new parts for the project. I also starting cataloging the parts I am not going to use and posting them on craigslist for sale. Now I'm hoping I can get rid of them so I can fund more parts purchases.
Negatives are I had to fix a broken clutch pedal in my 2009 Si I use as a commuter. The pedal broke in two spots, first it cracked the welds on the left side of the bracket, then it developed a 2" crack on the right side near the top of the bracket. Not sure what caused it to fail because I am not hard at all on that car. I have to say it sucks when a car goes down.
Hey guys, its been a while since I added updates so here we go. The main thing that has been keeping my attention is my plan for the brakes. So a box with the main components for my brake setup showed up the other day. Here is a teaser of what's to come...
Yep, brembo... As far as I can tell no one has ever done this setup on an EF hatch. More updates soon....
Not trying to be critical, but trying to give you good honest feedback on this build. Understand your CARB thing, but honestly I have raced both B16 and B20 powered EFs and staying NA the B20 is going to be a much more driveable... but I am beating a dead horse here, you already started your build so all the power to you.
But those brakes on an autox car? SAVE YOUR MONEY it is better spent elsehwere. Not only are you increasing the unsprung weight by adding heavier calipers and larger rotors and at the same time spinning those heavier rotors (which will create a loss of HP and torque) you absolutely do not need anything above the stock brake setup for autox.
Get a fresh rebuilt set of stock calipers, Brembo blanks, stainless lines and decent pad (Hawk HP+ is fine) and run DOT4 and call it a day. You will be happy. Particulary with the B16, power to weight is what you should be looking at. Get the car light. Have a look at all the National Winning EF STS builds... they all have the same formula. Bigger brakes are not one of them. Neither is 5-lug which you have mentioned earlier in this post.
Thanks for your opinions on my setup thus far, I do appreciate everyone’s feedback.
Originally Posted by solorex
Not trying to be critical, but trying to give you good honest feedback on this build. Understand your CARB thing, but honestly I have raced both B16 and B20 powered EFs and staying NA the B20 is going to be a much more drivable... but I am beating a dead horse here, you already started your build so all the power to you.
In response to your comments regarding my engine choice, I have a couple major limitations that the B18 and the B20 cannot overcome:
1. The B18 and the B20 were not offered as an option for an engine in an EF and unless I’m wrong that would disqualify me for the SCCA Street Modified (SM) Class I want to run in.
2. The other major hurdle that I can’t overcome is CARB, since the B20 was only offered in Prelude’s that are older than my car and the CRV it is not possible to make the car smog legal. The CRV is classified as a light duty truck and unless something has changed when it comes to passing the BAR it can’t be swapped into my Civic.
3. Honestly if I was going to go to a 2 liter motor I would K my civic but that’s for a different build in the future.
Originally Posted by solorex
But those brakes on an autox car? SAVE YOUR MONEY it is better spent elsewhere. Not only are you increasing the unsprung weight by adding heavier calipers and larger rotors and at the same time spinning those heavier rotors (which will create a loss of HP and torque) you absolutely do not need anything above the stock brake setup for autox.
Get a fresh rebuilt set of stock calipers, Brembo blanks, stainless lines and decent pad (Hawk HP+ is fine) and run DOT4 and call it a day. You will be happy. Particularly with the B16, power to weight is what you should be looking at. Get the car light. Have a look at all the National Winning EF STS builds... they all have the same formula. Bigger brakes are not one of them. Neither is 5-lug which you have mentioned earlier in this post.
In response to your brake choice comments. I will agree it is overkill given the potential output expected from a B16 to have 300mm front rotors with 4 piston Brembo’s coupled with a set of 2 piston Brembo’s in the back. My only reasoning for this setup is 1) Why not? 2) I love the Brembo’s I have on my STI and 3) I wanted to do something that has not yet been done on an EF that had functional benefits.
As far as the weight consideration I know that I will be adding weight to the car compared to the stock dx brake components but I think you may be surprised as to how little I will end up adding. I plan to weigh everything and post the information as I get parts. Amazingly enough the price of the swap will be about half of the cost of a set of Spoon calipers.
As for the 5 lug setup I have more 5 lug rim options than 4 lug options and I have a spare conversion I bought a long time ago for this project. Plus the bigger setup will be more conducive to my future plans.
07-19-2014, 07:28 PM
Re: 91 Hatchback Autocross Build
