j3wman

So I was driving to work today and after coming off the highway I got about a mile down the road and the car cut out and died. tried to crank it for 10 minutes nothing happened.

It is quite cold outside (9 degrees Fahrenheit), I can hear the fuel pump prime before I turn the car over, starter is in fact turning the engine over and there is no issue with power inside the car. That should rule out the fuel pump going out, starter being bad (which wouldn't explain why it died), alternator seems fine. Only precondition to this is a slight misfire when it is idling, probably due to the ignition timing being too advanced (which it is).

So I feel like the main relay might not be at fault here, could it still be even though the fuel pump is working fine?

I replaced the ignition coil and igniter over summer so I doubt they're at fault.

Any insight here would be quite helpful.

MemoryCRX

I had the same issue. It was the ingnigtion switch, behinde the key. 35.00 at autozone for one.

j3wman

How could it be the ignition switch? Could I put the car into the start position and short the positive from the battery to the starter?

James89DX

I don't see how the ignition switch would be at all related to your symptoms

sstupid

Engines need fuel, spark, and good vac to run. Your need to find out which is your issue. I'm guessing spark. Pull your distributor cap and see if the rotor fell off.

MemoryCRX

Like I said I had the same issuse so james you have no idea what you are talking about. Anyway here is some more info for the OP all of it is from the honda acura ER site.

How to replace the ignition switch or troubleshoot (Honda, Acura)




electrical switch.

"The electrical switch is constantly on standby and ready to supply or control power to the ignition system, the fuel system, the main computer, wipers, fans, relay coils, active feedback components (such as the speed sensor) and other accessories."

"The affected part involves the electrical contact portion of the ignition switch while the ignition lock and key assemblies are not considered to be the problem."


"Although, most Honda ignition switches can last the life of the car, to decrease a sudden stall due to an early wear, the electrical switch can be inspected and maintained by the experienced"

"Honda have recalled several types of electrical switch where too much current have either melted the solder or pitted the sliding contacts inside the switch, stalling the car in traffic. Some switch even develop crud from the factory grease creating an open circuit, stalling the car in traffic. Please take note whether the instrument warning lights immediately go out when the vehicle stalls. Every Honda has to light up the instrument once stalled. A car stalling without the warning lights (while the horns or brake lights work) is an indicator of a bad ignition switch. "



Here's a quote from the TSB

"Electrical contacts in the ignition switch can wear too early due to high electrical current passing through the switch. Worn-out ignition contacts could cause the engine to stall without warning. Although the engine will restart in most cases, a vehicle that stalls while driving increases the risk of a crash. "

Repairing/Inspecting:
Skills required: Should at least know how to crack a walnut cleanly in two pieces, eat the center and handle cleaning chemicals.



Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Have the electrical switch removed from the back of the ignition key assembly. It is recommended that the work area (above the driver side door mat) is clean and well lit. The purpose of this section is to open the electrical switch then inspect the contacts, the solder joints and the spring load tensions for meeting the technical service limits.
The electrical contacts are the ring and the surface which the ring slides in a circular motion to divert current inside the electrical switch. The ring is the usual place to check for wear, frozen grease or pits. But both the contact plate and contact rings should be inspected and cleaned.



GOOD This can be cleaned and reused, but must be installed properly.

WEAR Under normal usage there is a slight wear.

WEAR THIN This is at a critical dangerous stage and the #2 cause of stalling. Do not reuse.

PITTED This is a sign of arcing which may have overheated and melted the the solder joints. Do not reuse.









Further, check the solder joint terminals, if they show signs of overheating then the joints should be desoldered and fixed.
The benefits of grease are: 1) seals electrical contact points from exposure to air and corrosion. 2) any sparks made during break or make are quashed.
Caution: Use Electrical Contact Grease, other grease could cause combustion from sparks, harden in the cold or flow under heat. Some can even be electrically conductive. See FAQ bottom of page.
Caution: Do not mix grease.
Caution: Do not over apply grease.
Caution: Use a small precision flathead screw driver to pry open the electrical switch. The switch is made of thermoset plastic and very brittle. If not careful they can break.
Caution: The electrical switch is lightly spring loaded. Open carefully and do not let the springs and parts fly everywhere. You might not find any help or diagrams to help you assemble the electrical switch.
Repairing/Fixing: If the contacts are pitted or worn then it's not possible to fix them without using some special tools. However, you may temporary fix it by cleaning the surface then apply a higher temperature rosin core solder into the pits or swap the contact wafers with the non-damage identical ones.
Inspecting: Upon installation a resistance test or voltage drop test should be performed. If the resistance is too high then the ignition switch temperature could rise - which could melt the solder joints then stalling the car.

Tyson

i have an interest in this topic because my crx went dead suddenly after driving on a washboard road (crazy vibrations, i hate that road feel like my car is about to explode) but didnt shut off until right after a right hand turn onto the pavement and wont start, but will turn over too. made a bit of a rattle noise when it died and the first few attempts to start after.

starter/engine turns over
checked spark, good at least on cyl 1.
distributor rotor is on tight (first thing i thought)
main relay primes.
timing belt is ok.
oil level fine.

so far im pretty stumped myself and left with some wild theories now of a clogged cat. maybe injectors arent firing either, but im pretty sure they are, but im going to check with starter fluid. after that im going to be shitting myself because i cant think of anything else to possibly check. bad ecu?

i really dont think its my ignition either. ive had that problem before and fixed it with spraying wd40 down the keyhole. and the problem is completely different since it does turn over and electronics is all working.

i wont be able to do any more troubleshooting until after holiday vacation. but im interested in other experiences and ideas.

Mistah

I've seen this is a common issue with crx.

2 weeks ago my car didn't start at all. Same steps as usual: Fuel pump goes on and engine light goes off then tried to start and ZZAP! everything off. I waited for like 5min and tried again,fuel pump goes on and engine light off BUT...this time before I tried to start the engine I switched my lights on..or at least tried because again ZZAP everything goes off. I charged my battery in case of it would solve the problem. I checked wirings and fuses but nothing happened after that..

Well last weekend one friend of mine came visit and he wanted to see what happens when I try to start my car and somehow with his magical touch to key, my engine was running. Well day after that I stared my car as normal and drove to my brothers house and turned engine off so...well you know the rest...it didn't start again. So we pulled car back to my place!

I tried to start it couple of times on my parking lot and all lights started to blink and fuel pump crackle as h*ll so I removed main relay and yes I discovered the problem. Solders were badly damaged and also failed by the previous owner so there was no way I could fix that... Now I'm waiting new relay to hope it solves the problem