1990 CRX with G23
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1990 CRX with G23
1990 Honda CRX DX (lighter model) a.k.a Project Sleeper
Exterior:
-Has 200K miles on the body
-Body is mostly straight needs some work to be perfect
-Viper RED paint job
-No rust or major damage to frame
-Newer windshield
-Has front clear corner lights
-It's has stock lights and bumpers
-Rolling on old prelude mesh wheels, 13" actually get pretty good traction, good tires
Engine:
-Has a G23 VTEC engine (F23 block with a H22 head)
-Easily makes 200HP and 170 lb./ft. of torque (That's the same as a Type R motor only about 45 more lb./ft of torque!)
-F23 Block had only 50K miles on it
-H22A1 Head All stock with only 60K mile on it
-DC Sports 4-2-1 Header, one of the few headers proven to make power on this engine
-ACL Race Bearings
-K20A3 pistons bump compression up to 10.5:1 (stock H22 is 10:1 and JDM H22 is 11:1)
-Brand New Piston Rings
-Brand New Head Gasket
-Brand New Valve Cover Gasket set
-Brand New Rear Main Seal
-Brand New Crank and Cam Seals
-Brand New Oxygen Sensor
-Brand New Radiator Hoses
-Brand New Coolant
-Brand New OEM Cat Converter
-Brand New Fuel Filter
-Brand New NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
-Brand New Ignition Coil in a JDM H22 Internal Coil Distributor (hard to find)
-Brand New Distributor Cap and Rotor
-Brand New Spark Plug Wires
-Brand New Knock Sensor
-Brand New Oil and Oil filter
-Brand New Exhaust and Intake Gaskets
-Brand New Timing Belt
-JDM VTEC Solenoid (no pressure switch, just one wire)
-JDM H22 P13 4WS ECU (redline at 8K, CEL is on, it has a code 36-traction control which is only on the 4WS preludes and a code 1-O2 sensor which is brand new and all wiring is good. Might go away from just driving it. )
-Custom Made OBD0-OBD1 harness, works perfectly
-Ported and shimmed on the F23 Oil pump (gets a little more oil for that VTEC)
-Has a Magnaflow 2.5" Stainless steel Cat-back exhaust
-Has Alternator Relocation and used a D-series alternator
-IACV Deleted (these always go out, now idles at 1K all the time, and cleans things up)
-Stock Replacement Aluminum Radiator w/ dual 10" cooling slim cooling fans(flow great,very quiet)
-Shaved Crank Pulley (only alternator pulley, will add a few HP)
-Engine bay has a slight wire tuck,fuse box and battery relocated, but unfortunately the rats got to it and the shitty wiring is showing now
Drivetrain/Suspension:
-M2Y4 Manual H22 non-LSD transmission
-H22 flywheel w/ Exedy Stage 1 Clutch (was used but only 5K miles on it, lots of life left)
-90-93 accord shift linkage mount under car, so the stock center console is used.
-Skunk2 8K coilovers in Front and Megan 4K in the rear w/ KYB struts (struts are nothing real special, basically stock replacements)
-1988-89 Integra Driver's side Axle and New Custom made axle on passenger side
-Brakes in good condition Si brakes up front and fresh brake fluid
-Si front sway bar
-Transmission grinds from 1st to 2nd only, believe it needs a rebuild
Interior:
-All stock DX interior in 8.5 out of 10 condition
-Has Si steering wheel and Si clock
-White face gauge cluster w/blue lighting
-Stripped out in back and painted Midnight Black Metallic
-Everything works except the heater control mount is broken so it kinda flops around,but still works and
the heater blows air, but not hot air all the time. Might be the heater core, works when it wants to.
-No Radio or Speakers yet but i am having a custom made interior rear in with some electrical power, if you know what i mean
Exterior:
-Has 200K miles on the body
-Body is mostly straight needs some work to be perfect
-Viper RED paint job
-No rust or major damage to frame
-Newer windshield
-Has front clear corner lights
-It's has stock lights and bumpers
-Rolling on old prelude mesh wheels, 13" actually get pretty good traction, good tires
Engine:
-Has a G23 VTEC engine (F23 block with a H22 head)
-Easily makes 200HP and 170 lb./ft. of torque (That's the same as a Type R motor only about 45 more lb./ft of torque!)
-F23 Block had only 50K miles on it
-H22A1 Head All stock with only 60K mile on it
-DC Sports 4-2-1 Header, one of the few headers proven to make power on this engine
-ACL Race Bearings
-K20A3 pistons bump compression up to 10.5:1 (stock H22 is 10:1 and JDM H22 is 11:1)
-Brand New Piston Rings
-Brand New Head Gasket
-Brand New Valve Cover Gasket set
-Brand New Rear Main Seal
-Brand New Crank and Cam Seals
-Brand New Oxygen Sensor
-Brand New Radiator Hoses
-Brand New Coolant
-Brand New OEM Cat Converter
-Brand New Fuel Filter
-Brand New NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
-Brand New Ignition Coil in a JDM H22 Internal Coil Distributor (hard to find)
-Brand New Distributor Cap and Rotor
-Brand New Spark Plug Wires
-Brand New Knock Sensor
-Brand New Oil and Oil filter
-Brand New Exhaust and Intake Gaskets
-Brand New Timing Belt
-JDM VTEC Solenoid (no pressure switch, just one wire)
-JDM H22 P13 4WS ECU (redline at 8K, CEL is on, it has a code 36-traction control which is only on the 4WS preludes and a code 1-O2 sensor which is brand new and all wiring is good. Might go away from just driving it. )
-Custom Made OBD0-OBD1 harness, works perfectly
-Ported and shimmed on the F23 Oil pump (gets a little more oil for that VTEC)
-Has a Magnaflow 2.5" Stainless steel Cat-back exhaust
-Has Alternator Relocation and used a D-series alternator
-IACV Deleted (these always go out, now idles at 1K all the time, and cleans things up)
-Stock Replacement Aluminum Radiator w/ dual 10" cooling slim cooling fans(flow great,very quiet)
-Shaved Crank Pulley (only alternator pulley, will add a few HP)
-Engine bay has a slight wire tuck,fuse box and battery relocated, but unfortunately the rats got to it and the shitty wiring is showing now
Drivetrain/Suspension:
-M2Y4 Manual H22 non-LSD transmission
-H22 flywheel w/ Exedy Stage 1 Clutch (was used but only 5K miles on it, lots of life left)
-90-93 accord shift linkage mount under car, so the stock center console is used.
-Skunk2 8K coilovers in Front and Megan 4K in the rear w/ KYB struts (struts are nothing real special, basically stock replacements)
-1988-89 Integra Driver's side Axle and New Custom made axle on passenger side
-Brakes in good condition Si brakes up front and fresh brake fluid
-Si front sway bar
-Transmission grinds from 1st to 2nd only, believe it needs a rebuild
Interior:
-All stock DX interior in 8.5 out of 10 condition
-Has Si steering wheel and Si clock
-White face gauge cluster w/blue lighting
-Stripped out in back and painted Midnight Black Metallic
-Everything works except the heater control mount is broken so it kinda flops around,but still works and
the heater blows air, but not hot air all the time. Might be the heater core, works when it wants to.
-No Radio or Speakers yet but i am having a custom made interior rear in with some electrical power, if you know what i mean
Last edited by locito_pedrito; 11-19-2012 at 04:23 AM. Reason: New info
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#9
Re: 1990 CRX with G23
Hey guys iv been off the grid for a long time, lots of events took place all at the same time. I'm back and I still have the crx, gonna do a bunch of mods on it. I will start updating regularly tomorrow. If you guys have any advice or comments feel free to tell me, we a community are we not?
#11
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Re: 1990 CRX with G23
G23?
Now we're just making motor names up...
Is this for sale or are you just telling us about it?
-88-91 Crx Si and "Dx" share the same steering wheel and come with a clock.
-Reinstall the rear interior?
Now we're just making motor names up...
Is this for sale or are you just telling us about it?
-Reinstall the rear interior?
#13
Re: 1990 CRX with G23
G23: f23 vtec sohc short block + h22 head= 2.3 dohc long block with out the frm liners used in the h22,23 block meaning your able to throw in forged pistons or k series pistons with out a worry also its a killer even with the m2y4 or m2b4 trans if you got b series trans give way better results..but like all hybrid motors reliability drops
#15
Re: 1990 CRX with G23
Dang gotta love trolls So i had a cardomain page set up but now i cant access it. as soon as i can i will post. The car isnt for sale btw, tried to a long time ago
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Re: 1990 CRX with G23
This post is 2 years old.
The original poster seems to have a new account. 2 posts on his first account and 3 posts on his current account. Keep that in mind
The original poster seems to have a new account. 2 posts on his first account and 3 posts on his current account. Keep that in mind
#18
Re: 1990 CRX with G23
so because im still a trial account i cant post pictures yet. gotta play the waiting game. anyway i have pulled and put the motor back in 2 times. this time i have pulled it so i can mod the paint like i want. The motor is being dissasembled due to an oil leak popping up on the head gasket. the transmission is gonna get rebuilt. Custom interior and a custom sub set up will go in all the empty space in the back.
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Re: 1990 CRX with G23
The Beast chained up!
Intake side
Back in the day....
Front shot
Front Again
The hole in the frame wall because the alternator pully was rubbing 24/7
Ok so i know this vehicle needs alot of work. That is what i plan to do. i have already pulled the motor so i can fix all this gay ****
The wire harness looks like a rat got in it and f^&( **** up. Check the top left of the picture
Another big issue i have is the clearance for the motor and the tranny. On the tranny side the entire thing barely clears, but only after i remove the two bolts from the tranny mount.
On the driver side the crank shaft pully and the alternator pully sit literaly like 1/8 of an inch from the side wall of the engine bay
Alrite guys I need all the help i can get on this one, this has been my work in progress for like 2 years now. Now what i need here is guidance. I am already sanding the paint down to factory and having a professional do all the painting. Gonna tear the motor down and rebuild it all. Same goes with the transmission. The electrical is the biggest problem and i need help there for sure....well thats all i got rite now. What you all think?
Intake side
Back in the day....
Front shot
Front Again
The hole in the frame wall because the alternator pully was rubbing 24/7
Ok so i know this vehicle needs alot of work. That is what i plan to do. i have already pulled the motor so i can fix all this gay ****
The wire harness looks like a rat got in it and f^&( **** up. Check the top left of the picture
Another big issue i have is the clearance for the motor and the tranny. On the tranny side the entire thing barely clears, but only after i remove the two bolts from the tranny mount.
On the driver side the crank shaft pully and the alternator pully sit literaly like 1/8 of an inch from the side wall of the engine bay
Alrite guys I need all the help i can get on this one, this has been my work in progress for like 2 years now. Now what i need here is guidance. I am already sanding the paint down to factory and having a professional do all the painting. Gonna tear the motor down and rebuild it all. Same goes with the transmission. The electrical is the biggest problem and i need help there for sure....well thats all i got rite now. What you all think?
#23
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