Optic_Veloctiy

Hello All,

My name is Chris - I'm known in some inet circles as "ChR1s" because of my love for sportbikes and the fact that I own and operate Optic Velocity which is a sportbike focused paint shop although we do occasionally paint panels for people (Fenders - Hoods - Anything that can fit in a small booth)....

So, I have recently acquired a completely bone stock 89 CRX DX. It has the original 1.5 w/ the two injector system - not the multi-port etc.. I want to modify the car so that it has about 350 HP. I am looking to do this as cheap as possible but w/ reliability. Reliability comes first but cost is a close 2nd. My thoughts are that the best / cheapest way to do this would be with a B18A1 (1990 Cable trans Integra setup). I would install new bearings all around, new rods, pistons (Vitara?), rings, hone the cylinders, refresh the head with new valve guides, oil seals and an angle job.

I figure the cheapest way is going to be turbo. Getting to 350 all motor would cost a small fortune. I want the power to kick in right where it starts now - about 3.5K RPMS.. I don't need 600 HP. I have my sportbikes for that.

So, what I am asking is - from people who have been there - done that - I want opinions on my approach (Is it the best way to get there on a budget?). Assuming it is the best way, I'd like to know what the best turbo size and type would be for responsiveness and longevity. What compression should I run and what are the best parts/manufacturer to use for what I will need to rebuild the motor? Whats the best fuel management system to use on a budget but get the results I need. I'm all for doing as much as possible myself and building motors is no problem here. I have a lot experience building motors but none w/ turbos.

I am 100% ears for constructive input. I am also happy to trade paint work or sportbike parts for some of the parts I will need in this build.


Thanks for taking the time - truly. Thank you!

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Search 350 HP Honda on google, follow a build.

You don't need much internal work on a healthy motor. Don't drop the CR below stock (9:1 or so), it is a waste. There are some cheap piston upgrades available that will work on stock rods. Only do the necessary work to the head, a healthy donor would be best.

Get a cast log manifold, T3 .50 trim or .57 trim Garret turbo (personal preference), Walbro 255 fuel pump, 550cc+ injectors (google what size you actually need), 2.5" downpipe and mandrel exhaust, mild steel charge piping (welded together, no couplings) and modify the chassis to except the turbo'd engine.

Lastly, drop the money on Neptune (or whatever EMS you want, Neptune is a solid choice on a budget) and get the car professionally dyno tuned OR street tuned by a trust worthy local tuner. I would personally run several extra gauges including a more accurate water temp, oil temp/pressure, boost and a wideband. The wideband is peace at mind really and will allow you to fine tune the dyno tune. Many dyno tunes don't account for doing 80 mph cruising the free way. You'll want to lean those areas out or you'll get awful mileage.


Actually, just read this thread and do what he did:

https://honda-tech.com/appearance-bu...build-3208172/

350 wHP-ish, runs 10s, and is super cheap.

boostedd219

What he just said sounds spot on

F22Master

Stock JDM B20B from engine importer: ~$500
Cheap turbo kit: ~$400-1k
Trans: ~$1-300
Mounts, axles, accessories: ~$300+
Computer and a good tune: ~$300+

You should be looking at a minimum budget of $2000. And thats pretty much rock bottom. And you will have components that are at their limit, ready to fail at any minute. With more money, comes more reliability.

Honestly, you would be better off starting with a Vtec B series. They may cost a little more initially, but as long as it is a decently healthy engine, just put some ARP headstuds in it with a fresh OEM Honda head gasket and 350hp is easy. No need to 'build' at all.

Another place where you are better off spending more money out front is on the turbo. Get a nicer used turbo (in good condition) and it will last significantly longer than any cheap/ebay turbo.

whited

I read a thread like this, and am just itching to troll....

Don't forget to budget for your tune. The tune is the most important step.

And personally, I would recommend throwing some moneys into good tires and brake upgrades. Nothing like triple the horsepower and stock brakes ;-)

Optic_Veloctiy

Hey Guys, thanks for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate the genuine answers and time and thought put into them. Great replies and it helps me a good bit. I do have a couple of quick questions.

First, how much of a PIA is swapping from OBD0 to ODB2 and whats the best for a turbo setup?

I here bad things about the B20 CRX motor and turbo setups - is a B18 truly that much tougher?

Cable trans vs Hydraulic - I like cable, is going hrdro a significant PIA?

Thanks guys!

boostedd219

I prefer cable better as well