austincivic

Hello, All.

I have a 1988 Honda Civic, 2DHB that runs great, except...

It stalls. After warm up. Get a nice Yellow "Check Engine" light as well.

I can reproduce the issue.

IT's only when it is moving; it can idle all day long.

Get it up to about 60-70 MPH for a few seconds to a few minutes, the "Check Engine" light comes on.

Then, it starts to run rough.

Then, it dies.

Wait 5 seconds - it restarts fine.

Get it above 55 MPH - it repeats the same behavior.


So...

Pulled the HAZARD fuse to reset the ECU.

Start it up - no error codes - clean. So far, so good.

Run it down the highway - BINGO - "Check Engine" light, and it dies.

Coast int a parking lot, and there's an error code - 4: TDC Crank sensor.

So...

Measured continuity on the terminal sets D and E, then B and C. 550 Ohms


Checked for continuity to body ground on D and E terminal individually - infinity. Continuity does not exist.

So...next step would be to use the PGM-FI Wiring harness to check the main wire harness, but I don't *have* a PGM-FI test harness.

That said...

I decided to check continuity on the body - just my two test leads connected, touch to the body on points very near each other - infinity. Continuity does not exist.

I *should* read 0, and do when I connect the leads together.

So, do I have a crappy tester, and do I throw a new distributor into this car? Or am I looking into wiring issues?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Austin Civic

sanimalp

i would say if any of the tests fail according to the manual you are using, then you should replace the distributor. i had a code 9 forever, and tried everything. the only thing that fixed it was a new distributor. they are notorious on these cars for failing.

you can find them on ebay for $150 shipped. ive had one for 2 years now and it has worked fine..

thenick

Try something simple first like cleaning off your rotor.

austincivic

"Try something simple first like cleaning off your rotor."


Heh - did that. FWIW - it's got a brand new cap, rotor, and wires on it.

sanimalp

yeah thats where i started. did the wires, plugs, cap and rotor. nothing. it was a waste of money. put a new distributor on it and it worked just fine.

it says right in the manual i have, that if continuity does not exist with a body ground on d or e individually, as you tested it, to replace the distributor assembly. if you want i can post a pic of it.

youve done all the simple stuff it seems. the only thing left is to bite the bullet and pay $150 for a new distributor. dont bother with a junkyard one because its probably either just as bad or going to go bad. i made that mistake also, and it left me stranded 20 miles from my house when the bearing in the junkyard distributor seized. luckly my timing belt didnt break.