john666

i have slotted/drilled rotors on 4 wheels. i havent changed the pads yet from when i had the OEM rotors on. and havent changed prop valve. I do notice better "grip-age" from pad to rotor. unbelieve-able i imagine but for me thats what i can tell when i brake, im a daily driver and i drive alot like im sure many of you do, so any difference is noticeable to me.

mp5o

Very nice!! Props

B and B

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fenrir51 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With Brembo blanks the whole rotor doesnt rust, like with normal OEM rotors the inside vented area would rust. Thats what I heard, i could be wrong. Input would be nice. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They rust just like others. They did come with a nice-looking cad plate or something, but the hub area on mine are rusted. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry for being a bit off topic, aren't brembo rotors bigger(diameter) than OEM, or is that what you meant by "pretty much"?
No offense if any is taken. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They sell a line of stock replacements. They come with the new little holding screws also

nocturnaldragon

Thank you,

I guess the main point Im trying to make here is unless you do a lot of driving or drive hard like I do, Slotted or Drilled or a combination of the two will not make a difference.

They make a difference when you do a lot of hard driving and have heat build up and the like. For example when I drive I often drive faster then I should and brake later then my passenger would prefer. Its just the way I am so in my application I think they make a difference. The main thing I point to as my proof is that before I would drive and make a panic or hard stop, after doing one or two the wheels wouldn't lock up and it would take me longer to stop, with the brembo's I never lost the ability to lock up my wheels. I know that's not a proven method of comparison but its what I have available to me.

Redline96LX

What people can do is tape the surface area and hit the rest of the rotor with a very tough black paint. Shouldnt be enough to affect heat (unless your a track racer) and then your rotors dont look rusty on those places.

nocturnaldragon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fenrir51 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
With Brembo blanks the whole rotor doesnt rust, like with normal OEM rotors the inside vented area would rust. Thats what I heard, i could be wrong. Input would be nice. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They do and dont rust persay, they have a zinc coating on them and it will collect rust but it comes off after the first stop while driving and goes back to its original shine or whatever you want to call it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sorry for being a bit off topic, aren't brembo rotors bigger(diameter) than OEM, or is that what you meant by "pretty much"?
No offense if any is taken. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can get them to be direct fatory replacements or different bigger sizes depending on what you want to do with them. The OEM replacements come with all the hardware to comepletely replace your original rotor (aka Screws)

nocturnaldragon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redline96LX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What people can do is tape the surface area and hit the rest of the rotor with a very tough black paint. Shouldnt be enough to affect heat (unless your a track racer) and then your rotors dont look rusty on those places.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen many people around town here do that. Just don't use red or some other color that attracts attention to yourself.

R-Lug

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I road race and I use Brembo Blanks . Freaking nice rotors for the cost. Never warped in all the abuse I've put through them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can anyone tell me where to get Brembo blanks for a decent price? My rotors are warped. thanks

nocturnaldragon

I got mine on ebay for $180 shipped.

derspi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nocturnaldragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyhow like I was saying before with the old rotors, it felt like when I would press on them expecially in a hard stopping situation or a panic stop the pads would just glide over the rotor and never grip. When I put the new rotors in after trying new pads and a new master cylinder it seemed to really boost the braking power. It had more bite and would lock the wheel up at whatever speed, (Within reason mind you not 60mph mind you, but 30ish seems right [estimate here its where I would first hit the brake])</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your old rotors paired with new pads isn't an ideal setup. A lot of mechanics actually recommend new rotors with new pads (this is actually quite commonplace on BMWs and MBs) reason being is that you can bed them in together at the same time. Your old blank rotors have already had unique minute grooves carved into them from the previous set of pads and that could be a cause for you to feel them being "weaker" than your fresh set of drilled rotors that are now well bedded in with the new pads.

If you really are that hard on your brakes you really should be worried about warpage with the drilled rotors. On my previous car, I ran stock sized drilled rotors and they warped in less than 2 weeks. Heck, even my stock blanks on my Civic are slightly warped now after running them with Hawk HPS pads for the last 2 years. I'm fairly certain with the same pads, I'd warp a set of drilled rotors in less than a year. And I don't even claim to be hard on my brakes but maybe I am and just don't know it.

graffiti eg

hes right, slotted can crack, becareful, run them blanks in the front and drilled/slotted in the back if you must

boostedcivicsir

nice.

transpar_nt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redline96LX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now someone explain why BICYCLES come with rotors with holes in them. Don't tell me its to reduce weight, cause its a thin aluminum rotor and there not even saving pounds, rather grams, and bike rotors dont even get hot, cause its a bike. The holes must remove 60% of the contact area! Its a BIKE!</TD></TR></TABLE>

The holes on bikes' disc brakes are to keep the pads clean of mud and other **** on the trails. I definitely agree though that on a street/road race car dilled rotors don't belong. They impress the kids, that's all.

96 SOHC VTEC

Nice review. Autozone rotors are an awesome buy for the money accompanied with some good pads.

Redline96LX

same bling factor as the flappy paddle shifter transmissions.

"Hey i got one of those gearboxes like Michael Schumacher. I dont shift 1800 times a day, but I want it anyway."

I hate those transmissions, there terrible on the road.

B and B

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SeaLevel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can anyone tell me where to get Brembo blanks for a decent price? My rotors are warped. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nopi.

SoCal EJ1

I have powerslots in front for about a year and I've had no problems whatsoever.

JeffBro

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SeaLevel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone tell me where to get Brembo blanks for a decent price? My rotors are warped. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1411597
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=831188

nocturnaldragon

I had them resurfaced at the same time. so they were practically new. I understand your point tho and that's why I had them resurfaced.

As for the cracking I haven't seen any evidence of cracking, and remember blanks are prone to cracking as well.

JunY

Kool tip

I've been using Rotora's slotted rotors for a while now. Great rotors but too costly to replace every 10k miles. I might reconsider of switching back to Brembo blanks during the next brake pad replacement.

Redline96LX

10k miles out of your rotors? What are you doing? I got 88k out of my 9.5" rotors

Kamin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nocturnaldragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had them resurfaced at the same time. so they were practically new. I understand your point tho and that's why I had them resurfaced.

As for the cracking I haven't seen any evidence of cracking, and remember blanks are prone to cracking as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL
not anywhere NEAR as reguarley as it happens on a drilled rotor.

dude just give up, your fancy looking rotors do not help your braking.

91_CRX

Im not saying youre wrong or anything of the sort. Im just curious as to the evidence behind it and if anyone has any proof that blank rotors are better than slotted. Or even drilled for that much.

Power slot and blanks seem like a competition but thats all it is anymore. No evidence of one saying this is better than the other. So far its just word of mouth.

Kamin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not saying youre wrong or anything of the sort. Im just curious as to the evidence behind it and if anyone has any proof that blank rotors are better than slotted. Or even drilled for that much.

Power slot and blanks seem like a competition but thats all it is anymore. No evidence of one saying this is better than the other. So far its just word of mouth.</TD></TR></TABLE>
did you read the thread at all? thats what this entire thing is about.

the myths of cross drilling, why it was done when it did work, and why it dosent work now.

MonkeyBoy668

Cross-drill if you need to decrease rotating mass (e.g. bikes). Slot to vent pad gasses. Solid for maximum braking (until pads start to float). I thought everyone knew this?

On the street pad selection makes more of a difference in braking ability than solid/slotted/drilled rotors. If you changed to a different pad at the same time as you installed your new rotors, it's the pad, not the rotor. Well, unless your old rotor was warped, cracked, etc.

If you need evidence, dig around professional racing circuits. You'll notice most of the cars are running slotted rotors. Someone who knows why that is may even discuss the situation if you ask them really, really nicely.

Personally I've warped my slotted rotors (took a few years but it finally happened), can't find a place willing to turn them, so it's back to solid for me. I barely autocrossed and ended up not road racing, so rotor selection never made much of a difference to me. On the street you'll just never keep the pads hot enough, for long enough, for the pads to get gassy. Modern pads have simply come a long, long, long way.


to JeffBro. Those links just saved me $50!