SolusEM1

UPDATE: ************************************

No smoke, idles are gtg, new cluster to fix odometer,

Next problem...

Still haven't gotten around to fixing the CEL for knock sensor...


took the car for a little spin the other day to see what else might be wrong with it...

and, I've notice another couple issues so...


1. I think the tranny might be screwed. The oil spots are coming from where the tranny mounts to the block, a small drip. That runs down the shifter linkage. And periodically after about 30 minutes of driving the car is really hard to shift... but will randomly go back to easy. It has a short shifter and supposedly an exedy clutch.

2. After a little spirited driving, after vtec... my radiator will overflow the overflow spiting coolant everywhere. I'm going to change the coolant this weekend and see if that helps; for the first time this past weekend car started to overheat after vtec too.

so the current list of issues...

1. Knock sensor slow response (new knock sensor)... probably wiring
2. Transmission/clutch issues (possible leaking fluid)
3. Coolant spray and overheat.

Any help would be appreciated. Oh and it died randomly at a stop light after spirited driving first time that has happened!

************************************************** *********************





So, I jacked up the 2000 Civic Si during my deep inspection... saw small oil spot on the drive way after sitting for a couple of days. Not only did I notice the the inspection cover is missing on the transmission, I also noticed that there is coating of oil everywhere. Looks like it running down the exhaust... Barely any oil on dip stick... will be replacing oil asap. It's probably a leaky seal... possibly.

Additionally, upon start up white smoke emits from exhaust... it goes away after driving around. Is this related to the oil leak?

I don't drive this car around and I bought it knowing there was some stuff wrong with it... so I'd like to get this fixed asap. Any ideas?

rebuilt b16a2 (according to paperwork)...

There are a few problems with the car, but it runs strong...

1. rough idle, idles high and surges while warming up... then weak after warm up, will die if revved after warmed
2. White smoke from exhaust... strong exhaust fumes, smoke goes away after driving but fumes persist
3. Oil on undercarriage
4. broken odometer



mods: skunk2 exhaust, DC headers, AEM short ram, MSD ignition.

ANy help on the oil issue and the smoke issue would be appreciated... thanks

jbpnoman

White smoke is condensation (normal) or coolant (not normal). Black is fuel. Blue is oil. Assuming your smoke is actually white, it's probably not related to your oil problems. Since it's only at start-up, it's probably condensation, but a compression test would still be a good idea.

The idle, surging, and lack of power after warm could all point to timing being off, among other things. Start by checking your ignition timing.

To pinpoint where the oil is coming from, get under, over, and around your engine bay with some degreaser. Clean the everliving **** out of your motor and transmission. Once you have it all shiny, refill the oil and go for a quick trip around the block. Put the car back on jack stands, and look for something that isn't perfectly clean anymore.

GsrGoRawr

try a compression or leak down test. had the same problems with my 94 ex. it turned out to be my head gasket was bad. it wasn't fully blown but it did crack/chip near one of the corners causing oil to leak and burn.

SolusEM1

looks like the gasket around the oil pan is leaking... wiped down the engine, most visible oil coming from the gasket around oil pan...

SolusEM1

Ok... So I've cleaned the iacv and replaced the spark plugs... Still has a strange idle. On cold start idles at about 1500... Pulses 1200-1600 rpm. Once warm, idles at 700 but pulses between 650 and 800. After warmup, car drives fine... But will drop to 200 rpm or die when revved past 4000-5000 rpm while in neutral... If in gear no issue.

Now it has an obd1 ecu and I think might be **** tune, I do not have diagnostic tools. I'm thinking of replacing the ecu with a stock p2t ecu and removing vafc.

Also car has msd ignition and dizzy... Any ideas?

SolusEM1

Recently rebuilt engine btw...

Solster

with the motor swap and the msd you will need the OBDI ECU if it's a **** tune you need a retune.

do you have any CEL's? Does the CEL even work?

Could have a Expansion Crack with the car cold start the car if the radiator hose has pressure right after you start the car then you have a leak some were and that's your white smoke.

This means Nothing i can rebuild a Engine get a brand new crate motor from honda and go out race the **** out of it with low oil or over heat it and have it turn to a compleat **** storm in less then 1000 miles

TripleLude

Was the engine broken in properly?

SolusEM1

Original b16a2 engine... Just rebuilt, does the msd ignition and dizzy not work w/ obd2 p2t ecu?

I'll check for expansion crack... No cel.

SolusEM1

I had the honda service center look over the engine... Mechanically they said it looks fine, however they couldn't pull codes because of the chipped obd1 ecu... So I'm not sure about cel or any other codes.

SolusEM1

Nope! No pressure in radiator hose

TripleLude

When an engine is just rebuilt, you have to seat the rings properly and ASAP. Also, you need to have good crosshatch on the cylinder walls to help seat the rings. Seating rings requires a very specific procedure and should be done within the first 3 miles or so. Then change the oil after ring seating is complete. If the piston rings were never seated properly, the engine will burn oil, especially at higher RPMs.

SolusEM1

will this cause the idle to be all over the place?

TripleLude

You mean like bouncy idle or high idle? Generally no.

And FYI, white smoke is a lean running condition. White steam is usually a blown head gasket.

Also, I've seen a car with a cracked head start up and blow steam from the tailpipe until it warmed up. Then it would be like normal. 6 months later, the head gasket blew between two cylinders.

SolusEM1

Bouncing idle (1200 - 1800) when warming up... And weak after warm at neutral, will die (or almost die) if revved and allowed to drop to normal. Hmm...so I'll replace the head gasket, but first maybe the tune of the ecu has it running lean. I bought an obd2 ecu (they are so cheap), so we'll find out.

SolusEM1

Definitely white exhaust... Noticeable for sure with strong exhaust smell... Smoke only when giving gas, not when idling

TripleLude

The good news is, blown HG would usually smoke (or steam) at idle just a little bit.

Something keeps coming to mind... TPS. Can you check the calibration?

Solster

or if you plugged the wrong leads into the TPS

SolusEM1

so I replaced the ECU with a stock P2T obd2 from another Em1... the car had a P28 obd1 ecu. That fixed the idle and the white smoke, which leads to me believe that it was a shitty tune; probably running lean as another poster suggested.

NOW, I have a CEL! lol, that should be easy to read though (bad sensor, maybe)... could an aftermarket MSD ignition and dizzy set off the CEL?

So, other than that... there is still a small oil leak, about a table spoon every 4 days or so... it runs down the shifter linkage...

but progress was made.

TripleLude

Yes, some ECU's can do different things. You have increased the likely hood of a bad tune issue, but also a different ECU might read in the TPS wires in opposite manor. Sometimes you have to swap TPS wires when changing ECU or engine harness. Just informational, not disagreeing with anything here.

crxsi1

Im wondering since it was an obd1 ecu if it only has one O2 sensor hooked up... and if the new one is trying to read a second but its not there...

crxsi1

And cause you where running lean you probably fried the O2 that is in there...

SolusEM1

interesting crxsi1, once I pull the codes this weekend I'll find out. I hope its something this simple.

but, yeah no smoke and perfect strong idle now with the new ECU.

SolusEM1

So there it is... knock sensor and O2 Sensor issues.

How hard is it to replace the knock sensor, I noticed that its in a very difficult spot to reach above the oil filter.

Local honda shop wants like $800 to replace both sensors... they also said, that it could be the wiring harness, which they want $1500 to replace!!! They issue is a slow response from the two sensors due to "excess wiring"... could the VAFC cause this too? ... I'm going to rip it out when I get home.

I'm going to just replace the sensors and see what happens? I'm assuming it is MUCH cheaper just to buy the damn sensors and replace them myself right? ... depending on the difficultly level... I think the Knock sensor is going to be a PITA.

TripleLude

If you remove the oil filter, the knock sensor is easy. However, 2 years later I got the knock sensor code again and this time it was the wiring. So I ran a 12 foot length of wire from the ECU to the knock sensor and fixed that issue for good.

O2 sensor would take about 7 minutes for a good mechanic to replace. Occasionally, the sensor will seize, but liquidwrench has a product for that.