4g4me

Last night I did my fisrt h22 swap into a 92 CX hatch, actually my first h22 into anything.

We spent one evening after work pulling the old otor and doing all the necessary chassis prep. The next evening we dropped the big ****** in and attached everything and we were done at about 9 o'clock last night.

It was a big accomplishment for me, and i can honestly say that the swap was just as simple as doing a b-series into a 5th/6th gen civic.

We did everything but the wiring, we let place racing do it. My comments on that, yes 300 is alot of money to do the wiring harness, but the harness looked OEM and everything was taped and clipped like the factory harness. The 4 wires that we had to run through the fire wall were clearly marked, and the instructions were easy to understand. All the harness plugs had markings on them, i.e. TPS and EGR, and the paper instructions that place racing gave us had descriptions of what everything stood for and its function. I would recommend if you were not the wiring guru, or if you just wanted to have a clean *** harness without the headache.

The axle combo worked well, 1991 accord manual intermediate shaft, with 1990 integra axles. They went in fine and we have not experienced any problems.

The HCP mounts went in like a dream. The only mods you have to do to the chassis is cut 1" off the passenger side upper transmission mount bracket on the car. The HCP instructions give you step by step instructions on what to do, what mount to install first, and so on. You also have to drill a 9/16" hole for the new motor mount location on that passenger side upper mount. The pilot holes are there from the factory, so there is no guess work. Once again very simple.

The shift inkage is the ony thing that did not have any instructions. I went to http://www.jdmshit.com and looked at their pics of their prelude shift linkage installed in their civics. Thanks to newman for all his help. If anyone is "ify about the shift linkage, dont worry about it, you mock it up first, then cut it. It is actually very simple and straight forward. I enlarged the factory hole, and the used 4 bolts to secure the prelude shifter assembly to the floor board.

As for the A/c, I used the HCP mount as well. The compressor was hard to squeeze in with the condenser still in the car, but it all worked, with small munipulation of the lines. tip: put the bolts on the compressor before you begin to install the compressor to the bracket.

For belts, I used a 4 rib, to fit the compressor and that was used for the alternator as well, and thats it, you should measure the belt length first before you buy it, but I think that the length is 20".

For hoses, all heater hoses were custom, I bought about 4' of heater hose from autozone and some clamps. The upper 90 integra hose worked well, with a little trimming, and for the lower I used a flexhose, because I couldnt find one with a large enough diameter from honda.

The stock radiator fan worked fine, I had to trim each blade individually. It just takes patience, but it all works out.

The car started up on the second crank, no surging, no erratic idle, no check engine lights, no leaks or problems whatsoever. I was surprised with how easy the swap was and to have no problems was just too good to be true.

We drove the car around for about two hours, slowly accelerating and feeling the power here and there. I cannot explain the power on tapp with this setup, the 4th and 5th gear acceleration is unbelievable, no more downshifting to pass someone or to accelerate to a different speed. The drop from 5th to second gear at 50 mph is neck snapping, and I wouldnt do it if you werent used to that kind of power in a civic. I found that when you take off in second, like from a stop sign, the car acclerates, then when vtec kicks in, it will break the 15" falkens loose. very impressive

When we were on the way back to the house, the check engine light came on, but vtec still worked, so I figured it wasnt one of the vital CEL's

Problem was code 12, EGR system, which i found was common with these swaps, and it does not affect the performance in any way, and it also resets everytime you turn the car off, then back on.

My question is, what have people been doing about this EGR code? What can I do to complete the system? Do I just leave it on and deal with the light? Can some one with this setup please share.

Add me to the list of people who can answer any question about this swap, as long as you used the same setup I did:

1. 92 JDM h22a, non lsd
2. JDM p13 prelude ECU
3. 91 accord int. shaft, 90 teg axles
4. HCP EG-22 mount kit with a/c bracket.

Any questions please ask, I am here to help, either IM me or e-mail me @ focusroller@email.com

Thanks for reading, sorry for the length,
Aaron

Jonathan_ED3

Great job on the swap

As far as your EGR question, the H-T.com answer for everything is 'you don't need it', which really annoys me.

I don't know anybody that has the EGR hooked up because, again, 'you don't need it'. Just because you don't HAVE to have something doesn't mean you don't want to hook it up properly!

I'm hooking mine up (after being told 'you don't need it' one too many times)....you need to keep a lot of the H22 vacuum hosing/sensors, and of course it needs to be wired up..which I'm assuming PR did since you said it was labeled EGR etc.

Since it is wired up, just take a look at the stock H22 vacuum line diagram (if you don't have it, send me an IM)...you'll do it just like that except leave out the Intake Control Solenoid Valve, and the Intake Control Diaphram.

Cap the nipple off that these systems ran from (they both come from one nipple). Also cap off the Cruise Control nipple unless you have it.

That's as much info as I can gather about how to keep it and make it work...I don't have my engine in yet so I can't tell you for certain that it's going to work right.

After consulting with about 10 different guys, I hope this is the proper way to do it.

rodrez.

quote:
We did everything but the wiring, we let place racing do it. My comments on that, yes 300 is alot of money to do the wiring harness, but the harness looked OEM and everything was taped and clipped like the factory harness.

Hey, for perfect, no hassle, trouble free wiring, I say $300 well spent

Pat McGroin

How was the vibration with the motor mounts????

chameleon

coo sounds phatty. sad that i didnt keep my h22a motor.. i would break tires loose in 1st on vtec.. all i did was spin, truly a monster of a motor, i will miss it dearly.

Patrick

Very good write up. I kinda regret not tryin to go with an H22, because one of those motors in an eg with create a monster street machine.

4g4me

Pat.....the vibration isnt bad at all, actually the h22 runs smoother than any b-seres i have ever swapped, and therefore the overall vibration factor is very low. The only thing you might feel is a change at idle, but once you are moving you never feel a thing.

variable

iTrader: (1)

Nice, now i'll have another beer

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Awesome job. Congrats to a successful swap and welcome to the H22 civic club. Hope you enjoy it as much as me.

tominos

very good write up. how much did you spend on this setup? in total? and how much for the place racing mounts

EG6owner-T

.

nathn_ep3

you can use a p72 ecu instead of the p13 and you wont get the egr code. plus you get a better top end and a 8000 redline. there is a bit of a lag at 4800 but it is hardly noticeable. i actually ran .2 faster in the 1/4 too.

clm

Nice write up. Makes me want to put an H22a in my Sol now.

Now where are the pictures?

supapoopa

bit off topic but does anyone know of anyone that has swapped one (h22) into a 92-95 4-door?

The HamsterBall

hrmm.. that's cool. i have recently taken ROP auto engine/tune-up and am taking ROP auto chassis/brakes right now.
i am in the lot for a new/used car soon (for college).. and i am thinking of getting a '96-'00 civic Hatchback.
it must have been a long and arduous task to put a prelude engine on ur civic.
heck. if i had a civic hb, i'd probably need a lot of help.
thanks for all this info on the swap.
have fun with the new motor!!

BackSideSA

sweet write up....

i got killed by an H22 del sol....dont even want to come close to an H22 hatch

BeerBaron105

yep
he used hcp mounts, pretty much teh same setup as this guy, except 92 teg axles i believe, make sure u replace ur stock suspesnion, cuz his left side started to sag, and the boot covering the axle tore and crap and gunk got in and he had to replace it, but niow he is running with gs-r suspesnion so its all good

his car is oem stock outside as well, perfect sleeper

FifthGearOnline

how long did it take you from start to finish?

degooser

how much did this swap cost you???

so the shifter stuff isn't that bad at all??? (this part kinda drew me away from an H22) in my coupe

I've seen some pretty hacked up ways to connect the shift linkages!!!

post up some pics if you can!!!


[Modified by degooser, 11:06 PM 2/8/2003]

4g4me

to answer some questions:

1. The swap took two evenings. I get off at 5 o'clock, and I worked till about 10:30 each night, it was last tuesday and last wednesday.

2. NO the shifter was no problem at all, a little mocking up, tracing for the cables penetration, and a little cutting had the shifter assembly installed in about 20 minutes. Tops

3. Price, well you know no one talks about how much this swap really costs. So lets break it down.

-Motor/tranny/ecu/cables/ =$2400 shipped( http://www.hmotorsonline.com )
-custom engine harness EGcivic/92-95 prelude=$300(www.placeracing.com)
-HCP mount kit/AC bracket=$425 <U>shipped</U> (www.jdmshit.com newman)
-accord intermadiate shaft=$100 from local import shop (hard to find here)
-Integra reman. axles=$100 (www.napaonline.com)
-little bullshit hoses/clamps/vaccum caps/this and that...$100

$3425 give or take here and there, add $450 for a clutch kit and to shave off a couple lbs. from the flywheel and there is your price list.

I would say that with the place racing harness or not, you could do this swap for under $4000. I know that for 4500 or so we could have just gotten a ITR motor, but with that swap there is stuff you still need to buy as well, and the torque availability down low makes the H22 a better choice for a daily driver, but i guess that I would need to drive a ITR powered hatch to really tell you the difference. The h22 hatch and a B18c5 hatch I am sure run very close to each other, the h22 is held back buy traction, but also you get the bragging rights, and the look on peoples faces when you pop the hood is priceless.

I will be posting some pictures later tonight, so till then...

DV98CVC

i was thinkin about doin this swap in my 98 coupe, but the whole cable shifter kinda scared me away, but i guess its easier than i thought. another thing that worried me is the traction problems. do the ludes have that much trouble with traction? why do civics w/ h22's? is there anything you can do to deal with the traction issue if its a daily driver?
-ryan

4g4me

the traction issue has to do with the fact that te civic is so much lighter than a prelude, and also the prelude has alot more weight % cantilevered in front of the engine bay in comparison to the civic.

The h22 makes alot of torque way down low, this is exactly opposite from a D or B series engine, thats why the traction problem, if you call it a problem, exists.

Some may call it a problem, but in normal everyday driving, the h22a feels like a normal car with globs of torque available.

Please do not be intimidated with this swap....

White Lightnin

I was thinking of doing this swap and selling my GSR. I havent run into anyone with an h22 swapped into a hatch locally all though Ive heard of a few. I decided finally that it wasnt worth the trouble of swapping again. Congrats on the swap

acura_typer

Hmm, I'd like to find out how much torque down low an H22 makes, like a dyno chart. I have traction problems too with my b20, but not till 5k or so.

Jason kiDD

Good write up and enjoy. If you want you can give me a picture of the inside of your P13 ECU and I can see if I can get rid of your EGR cel code more ya. For some reason the one I got with my swap which was a JDM AT p13 never gave the EGR code even though I dont have it hooked up with the swap.. But I took pics of the pins and the resistors so maybe we can figure something out...