frost6

Hey guys, new to the Honda scene just had a couple questions about kill switches.

I currently have a 2000 em1 b16 that has a car alarm with auto-start and was thinking of installing a couple of kill switches since these cars are pretty heaty around where I live, and I'd like to keep this one for the long run.

I've looked at the FAQ and saw one thread mentioning a fuel pump kill-switch https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...witch-2076997/

I've also watched videos on youtube on how to install them etc, but I still had a few more questions since those videos seemed a little old to answer them.

1. In that thread someone mentions installing a relay as close to the load as possible in order to protect the wiring and to stop a fire, is this true? Should I also install a fuse in line with the switch and the kill switch/relay?

2. Is installing a main relay kill switch (ground cut off) risky? I've read on a few forums that it can cause problems if done incorrectly, are there any wiring schematics I can see?

3. Is there any other layer of security that I can add that would deter/stop thieves? I've heard of something to do with the clutch safety wiring, but I'm kind of scared to deal with that kind of thing...

4. Would there be an issue with using thicker gauged wiring? Fire hazard? Can I use anything to protect the switch/wiring/relay/fuse from heat due to the current?

Sorry if I missed anything, thanks!

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

there isnt any issue with adding a fuse or using heavier wire. the amount of current you're playing with is minimal. instead of a main relay kill, why not choose one of many ecu wires that would prevent it from starting? unless you can make your car tow truck proof, it isn't theft proof. if they want it bad enough, they'll get it.

frost6

thanks for the response eghatch, what type of fuse would you recommend for the kill switches? 25amp good enough?

I know I can't make it theft proof, but at least I can say I tried at the end of the day, this is my first car and I want to take as much care of it as I can since this will probably be given to my brother as well later on.

As for the wiring off of the ECU, I looked up the schematics of the ECU, which would you recommend the best to kill off?

.:FFS TechNet : OBD2b ECU Connector Schematics :.

thanks!

frost6

Bumperino still looking for answers

DumpdEJ6

Yes 25amp switch should be perfect. That's what I used for mine. No need for an inline fuse as well.

One issue I see happening is that your remote start obviously won't work if the physical kill switch is engaged.

frost6

Yeah I've accounted for that, but I don't even use it, this system was installed by the previous owner of the vehicle. I always park my car gear in which doesn't allow the auto-start to be initiated in the first place

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

b1, b13, a24, to name a couple. 25 amp is too much, imo. using too large a fuse on a circuit intended for, say 15 amps, will not blow in time to protect that circuit if there is a problem.

tony_2018

GPS tracking, if your car leaves the fence you put up than you get an alert. You can then chase that **** down with a shotgun so you can pull him over.

frost6

So just for clarification, if I run a fuel line kill, the only thing I would need at most is a 15amp rocker? I want to run the wire possibly around 5ft to give it a run around just cause I can, there won't be any problems?

tony_2018

That would be unnecessary but ok. I would rather use a relay to do a kill switch and if you have an alarm you can tie it in.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

you can make a super easy inline fuse holder if you're worried. using a standard size ATO blade fuse, cut the wire. add in a female quick connect on both sides, and jam your fuse in either side.

frost6

I've read that by using a relay along with the alarm system negates the use of a physical switch, does this mean while the alarm is armed effectively whatever is connected to the kill is dead?

frost6

http://www.civic-eg.com/causeforalarm/fuel_kill/NC_fuel_kill_relay.gif

I tried using this circuit for the relay with my compustar cm3000 brain but for some reason the fuel pump wouldn't prime in the on position.

For the ground I used violet comming from the brain which is to my knowledge seems like the negative when armed since I can't seen to see a ground when armed, this seems to be the only other viable option...

I checked if I blew anything by removing the relay altogether and testing by putting a straight rocker, which worked like a charm.

Any ideas?