TomCat39

600 is low once warm. Here is the Idle Set page for yourD16Z6. Note your engine falls under "others" the D16Z1 is the "special" one with separate settings. "Others" is for the D15B8, D15B7 and the D16Z6 in the 92-95 year range.




Also of note, it seemed like you pulled the IACV (EACV) plug with the engine running... Not sure if that can mess things up..... Just putting it out there being FSM says to plug and unplug with the engine off.

Pezgoon

Yes I have a feeling it could also, the reason I did so is that the Haynes states to do it to check if the IACV is functioning, I also found it somewhere in the FSM in the flowchart for checking if its working, one of the steps is to unplug it while running to see if its functioning, I only did it once not every time and I don't remember if I did it with this one I may have only done it with my old one
Reference page 11-86 Flow chart (I don't know how to put pictures from the file onto here) it states "With the engine running and the accelerator pedal released, disconnect the 2p connector from the EACV" Then " is there a reduction in engine rpm?" then either yes or no and so on

After that test I've always had the car off while unpluggib it as you can't set the idle correctly if its unplugged while warming up.

My question is is if I set the idle at 420 won't it idle even lower than already? Or could the idle screw be letting in so much air that the iacv is just sitting closes trying to compensate for the extra air? Thus not raising the idle as is intended. After sleeping on it I'm going to attempt to set the idle at 420 and see what happens maybe it is just because I'm setting it out of spec (7-900) that it isn't compensating properly while warming up

I found a chart in the FSM that states the iacv is supposed to increase the idle 150-300 rpmin addition to the fit depending on what ttemperature it is outside, out of curiosity even though the FSM doesn't suggest it could the atmospheric air temp sensor have an effect? I don't think the chart even listed it as a possibility

Also out of dumb luck I'm going to unplug the each Starr it and check the cel to make sure the IACv is plugged into the right cable, I believe it is cause it seems to work once warm but who knows haha

TomCat39

Then my concern is unwarranted. It should be fine then if it's another test recommended.

No, you are setting it at 420 with the EACV unplugged, you don't run the car with it unplugged.


Side note: To post up pictures use the Manage Attachments button and then the paperclip button at the top of the posting window. These are not available with quick reply, you have to hit go advanced or the regular reply button for all the advanced features to be present.

Pezgoon

Yes, my issue was was when I tried to set it at 420 the idle wouldn't sit steady enough to get an accurate reading on the cars tach (i have no external tach) so instead I would set it at 7-8-900 and it would (on its own) bring it down to 650 so I thought it was perfect, now looking back it may be flooding the engine with too much air while cold and the ecu is being confused thus not being able to give it enough fuel or something like that, I will attempt to set it at 420 today, I wish I had more time before work dammit!

Side note, I found in the fsm that on the throttle body to check the throttle stop (IT HASNT BEEN TOUCHED!!! lol) there is supposed to be no clearance between the butterfly valve end and the throttle stop screw, mine has clearance (from wear and such) and I know this as while its idling if i push down (towards the throttle stop) I can feel tiny play there, and it can also kill the engine by doing so, not sure if its supposed to stall the engine but that makes it seem like the throttle stop screw is out of spec, can anyone else confirm or deny whether it is supposed to have the hair of play/kill the engine? and whether if it isn't set correctly if this could be related to my issue? thoughts?

Pezgoon

Just FYI I had driven off this morning without letting it warm up enough to start stalling, it threw code 43 which Haynes lists as vacuum leak but looking on the forums here its listed as fuel supply/fuel pressure. So Im curious whether the iacv could cause it to throw that code or maybe as things begin warming up whatever is leaking seals up so I'll check intake anifold and **** since there's been an engine swap and I guess I'll check the fuel regulator, is it possible that at idle it would cause problems but while driving it wouldn't? I feel like fuel supply is more constant than intermittent like this so I have a stronger feeling its a vacuum leak code or related to a vacuum leak all around (the idle issues)

Pezgoon

also I forgot to add in the beginning which I now did, it has a k/n cold air intake a flow master exhaust and dc sports header

so on my way home from work some weird stuff happened, I didn't wait for it to warm up very much but it got to about 1k maybe a little under and I drove off with full load, lights on wipers vents and even rear defroster first stop I had no problem, on the way to the second one the check engine light came on not sure if its the same code but probably, will confirm tomorrow, stopped at a set of lights with the temp gauge dead set in the middle of the "no no zone" and had no stalling or anything whatsoever it did idle at only 600 but was under full load, get to my house (it was at about 1/4 temp and that was when the idle started to drop again just as I was parking in my spot (wheels turning and such ) it stalled. dunno what any of this means figured I would just add it on to the ever growing list of weird ****. Tomorrow is my day off and even though its gonna be raining ill be out there spraying tb cleaner at it seeing if i can find a leak I will then go on to adjust idle and see it that does anything and if no one has any ideas about the butterfly valve I may stick one of those spark plug measuring things ontop of the throttle stop screw when its full cold and see if that changes things.. sigh, I hate waiting two hours for it to cool down and do it all over again lol. I think Ill start with the butterfly test and go from there. many updates tomorrow

IF ANY MODS OR ADVANCE USERS HAVE ANY IDEAS PLEASE CHIME IN!! Thanks!

Nave43

I shall be here waiting for updates. Not much i can do till then. Still to many variables.

TomCat39

Pull your code first off before all else. You need to get the code taken care of before you can do any other diagnostics/fixes.

In the theory it threw code 43 again here is the FSM pages for 43:




One thought, you say you have a DC header (4-2-1?). If it's like mine the O2 sensor only reads off of cylinder 4. That might be relevant if everything checks out.

From my understanding, the butterfly valve of the throttle body should not be fully closed, just darn near. The screw is set at factory and it's the one screw everyone says, don't mess with. In the event of those that don't head warnings and messed with it, the closest to factory one could get was to back the screw out until the butterfly just closed, then screw it back in 1/2 a turn. That is if my memory is serving me correctly. Not sure I can find the posts with that info. Anyways, I believe this just barely cracks the butterfly open.

Pezgoon

Also not sure if its relevant I forgot all this stuff in the beginning but its also a JDM engine not USDM that was put in

Yes! that is the same header, it has the o2 sensor located all the way on the left side of the block correct? Are you saying that could be causing the o2 sensor to be reading incorrectly? is there any way to get a test harness? as I really don't like cutting the insulation to test the wires, too much chance of making more problems.

My butterfly has a gap in-between the screw and the spring/valve stem assembly, I can physically push it down and feel the butterfly move about 1/32-1/16 of an inch and I can even stall the engine while doing so (while fully warmed up when it idles fine) I have this nagging feeling that my butterfly is not cracked like it is supposed to be and the computer doesn't realize that its not running right until the o2 sensor(s) are fully heated up thus it would be thinking its not getting fuel, the 02 sensor is bad, or that there is a vacuum leak. As someone said the obd1 system is sorta basic so sometimes the ecu may just grasp at straws to figure out whats going on, I'm going to look further into this butterfly thing to see if I can find any more information on it but I think Im going to start there. Before mess in with the screw though I just found a thread about checking the tps voltage so I'm going to look into that to see if I can pinpoint whether my butterfly is closing too much or not instead of Fing up the factory settings and not being able to go back, I'll start with the fps/butterfly as I have a feeling if I can seal it off and choke out the engine the screw is not set properly, will update this evening when I know more

Oh! And it only throws the code while warming up, if I drive the vehicle a bunch and have it warm, stop go in a store and drive again no matter what the code won't come on, only while during the warm up period (mostly in its "fits" area) will it throw a code and its always been 43 when I pull it, so I'm not sure if this would also be pointing to the computer being fooled into thinking its something else when its not.

Damn nor'easter typhoon ****, I wish it weren't raining so hard this morning

Also thanks for the flow chart, I didn't even realize that they were also based upon the codes

Much to do in the sideways rain!

TomCat39

All these details after the fact....

Anyways, use google and search for honda factory service manual and you should be able to find the 92-95 fsm. It will help you even with your jdm motor.

I'm assuming a jdm d15b even thought you haven't provided but the vaguest of information causing quite likely wild goose chase. Even then you have to indicate which of the 4 d15b's it is. Also what ECU is running it.

Each situation and motor is different and not providing all of this information in the beginning doesn't help you or us.

Good luck on your car.

Oh, and I made a mistake. Cold RPM is right around 1500 rpm and I leave when it gets closer to 1000 rpm. I looked this morning, in my previous post I was trying to picture it in my head.

Pezgoon

Thats alright, its a d16z6 also. Sorry I only said it was a d16, its the stock ecu as far as I know. It wasn't done as an upgrading or modding simply as the last engine failed.
I have the fsm I had found it two days ago and have been reading much the last couple days.

I just discovered some interesting things though, I wish I had tried it earlier but I didn't think it could've been the FITV seeing as I've only heard of it causing higher idle. Even at as fully warmed as I can get it sitting there revving the engine I couldn't get the fan to come on even after I've been driving around all day but the temp gauge was in the middle and steam was coming off the outside of the radiator (so higher than 30c which is what the fsm says to check for the FITV leaking) so assumably fully warmed, I still had a large amount of vacuum going to the FITV (sticking my finger over the hole) I know theres supposed to be only a tiny bit at most but this felt like quite a bit more than a tiny bit, I would say quite a large amount.

After everything I've searched for I've never heard of it lowering the idle, only raising it.
I'm going to try replacing it and see if it fixes it as I tried spraying the tb cleaner at it (i have no carb cleaner nor the funds to get it atm damn biweekly checks) and I found no change in idle whatsoever so I don't believe there is an external vacuum leak (gaskets act). I also did try tapping on the IACV to see if it was stuck or something as I believe NAVE43 suggested earlier.

My question is, could that affect the IACV not being able to control the idle properly?

Another thing I noticed was after I was done messing with the idle and still not being able to get it to control load properly I got fed up with doing the procedure and while plugged in and idling I turned up the screw and it changed with it and stayed where I set it. Everything I've read on h-t says your not supposed to able to do that as the IACV will fight with you to control the idle, so would this be an indication that the replacement IACV is still bad?

Also in unrelated news I had found out that when they did the engine swap they never re installed the throttle cable properly and not only was the bracket not attached to the intake manifold, the nuts on both sides of the bracket were tightened down to it, it had no affect on the idle but it seems as they may have tried to cheat the idle by using the throttle cable

I was not able to get probes small enough to test the TPS and I did not touch the throttle stop screw, I'm going to try the FITV first and while I'm at it I'll try to get another IACV, can anyone confirm or deny if the symptoms I just stated would indicate a bad IACV?

Sorry about missing some of the information in my original post..

Thanks for all of your help guys!

Pezgoon

P.S. Tomcat39, is this what your headers look like and is the second picture of the o2 sensor? Or is that the coolant sensor? Am I missing mine? I know theres one on the backside of the engine where the headers connect to the rest of the exhaust is there only one or two?

TomCat39

The z6 has it by the cat, and only one o2. So it's in the best place possible and reads all 4 cylinders. I have the D15B7 with that header and it was normally in #4 down pipe. I did a relocate and have my o2 sensor in the same spot as yours is now so it reads all 4 cylinders down underneath the car by the steering rack.

Don't worry about getting carb cleaner, your throttle body cleaner will do the same thing and is better due to it being nicer on precious coatings like throttle body butterfly valves.

When you said JDM I assumed D15. Didn't realize JDM had the Z6, always thought it was the ZC.

It looks like you go a lot of work ahead of you to get your car running properly.

Now that you have the FSM you can go through it with a fine tooth comb. And I suspect if the FITV doesn't close, it's going to affect your idle when warm. It's like choking an old carb car after it is warm, it runs horridly. The difference is the computer will attempt making up for it and keep the motor running, while the old carb engine would choke out and die.

Now that you have the FSM check page 11-20 and 11-21 for Idles to high when warm under idle irregular.

tony_2018

Take a picture of your temp gauge and tell me where this "no no zone" is. This is way too confusing the way you kind of explain things. I have a feeling you aren't getting correct readings from ect sensors or temp sensor.

Nave43

Go up /\ he already has pictures up of the temp gauge.


wait.. is it a d15b or a d16z6? Give us the EXACT code off the block, its located in the bottom left corner right by the bell housing.

I have a JDM D16A (D16A stamped on block) And it is basically a USDM D16Z6


Clean out your FITV like this https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...valve-1564019/

Pezgoon

D16Z6

The only reason I say its JDM is cause thats how its listed on the receipt, I haven't looked into chasing the vin yet.

I was thinking that could be what it was doing (flooding itself) I didn't think to look at idling too high

I Posted the temp gauge on the 1st page, the first one is when the FITV seemed to seal up and where the IACV should take over but it doesn't, the second picture shows where it just begins being able to keep itself running so it must be closing the FITV juuust enough to idle but its not sticking so it doesn't idle high

Thank you tomcat39 for the pages I'll take a look right now

Tomorrow I'm ordering an FITV and will go from there, I've let the seller know that the IACV may be bad too but I'll see what happens when I swap out the FITV, Ill keep updating as I go along

As a side note, do you think it could be a bad or dirty map sensor? I'll try and clean it Saturday when its not raining or tomorrow if it stops.

TomCat39

Section 11 will have all your troubleshooting flow charts and procedures for the fuel and air.

As for test harness, I've been thinking about making one from parts, just not sure where to get the female sockets without destroying an ECU. I don't have a quality butane soldering iron to wreck a junk yard ECU for the sockets.

You can get wire piercing probes and just seal up where it cuts into the insulation. I suspect that's what most do being you can't get the test harness as far as I know or it's not cheap if you can.

Nave43

Did you clean out the FITV like this \/

https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...valve-1564019/

Pezgoon

Yes I did, I adjusted it too as originally it idled at 1200. I cleaned it till it shined inside but it is still leaking, I'll be ordering another one today then I can find out if the iacv is still bad or if its just the fitv making it not work, this bugs me though that it could bring the idle down instead of up I wish I had thought to check it sooner