R1020

i need help.

some background, before we get started:

my car: 1993 civic dx coupe
motor: 2000 B16A2 w/ S4C tranny, ITR LSD
mounts: hasport solid mounts
axles: autozone 94-97 delSol VTEC axles


okay, here's the deal:

i developed a vibration in the steering wheel back in june. it's from about 65mph and up, and varies in intensity - sometimes it's bad and sometimes it chills out for a minute.

also, not only is it transmitting vibration through the steering wheel but also through the floor/pedals.

i had my tires balanced...they were OK. when i rotated my wheels/tires to rule out a bent wheel, the vibration got even worse. my wheels had seen some serious track and street time in the past so i just decided to buy a new set of wheels (i needed new tires anyway). so i bought some 15x7 kosei K1s w/ 205/50/15 falken azenis.

first test drive: vibration is worse. i have them re-balanced at another shop, and they tell me that they were off, and they should be "perfect" now. test drive: much better, but the vibration persists....

i'm getting irritated at this point.

i got the car up in the garage and the following checked out fine:

- ball joints
- tie rod ends
- wheel bearings

i checked my axles, and noticed no tears in the boots, but my inner joint boot on the passenger side axle is leaking (badly). i repacked the boot and put a new band on, but the joint is not happy. so i figure...bingo, i have a bad inner CV joint.

i call raxles and speak with marty. really nice guy. he has a set of axles specifically for my application, so i ordered a set.

they arrive and look spectacular. i'm pumped at this point. i install them and go for a drive: not only is the 65mph+ virbration WORSE, but now i have a bad vibration on hard acceleration, in every gear. so i figure, one of the new axles is bad, or they're the wrong length for my car. OR my intermediate shaft is bad.

i had noted some bearing play in the intermediate shaft when i removed my old axles, so i ordered a new intermediate shaft and install that. no change in status.

so i remove the axles and installed the old ones. the vibration on acceleration is now gone again (as expected), and the 65mph+ vibration is back to where it was.

so, what gives? i know my passenger side inner CV joint is going bad, but what else could possibly be causing this problem??

thanks in advance for any suggestions. i'm baffled at this point. also, to note...i've been in touch with marty @ raxles about this the whole time (since i ordered my new axles), and he's stumped as well.

peter


Modified by R1020 at 8:44 AM 9/19/2006

JDM_Ej

I've had and still have the same problem. Seems to be a common occurance on Civics.

Have you inspected/replaced the INNER tie rods? What about the rack end bushing?

I don't see how new axles would make vibration worse... unless its coming from inside your trans somehow.

Is your car lowered?

Archidictus

Check the front LCA bushings where they connect to the subframe and - I know this might seem odd - pull your brake calipers off and make sure the pistons are even in their bores. If one or more of them are cocked funny, that could be causing a pad to push the rotor around and make a harmonic vibration.

Sounds like a bitch of a problem. Good luck

JDM_Ej

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the front LCA bushings where they connect to the subframe and - I know this might seem odd - pull your brake calipers off and make sure the pistons are even in their bores. If one or more of them are cocked funny, that could be causing a pad to push the rotor around and make a harmonic vibration.

Sounds like a bitch of a problem. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good advice, it could definatly be a dragging caliper too. A severely out of balance brake rotor can cause it, but I don't think it would be as bad as your describing.

R1020

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had and still have the same problem. Seems to be a common occurance on Civics.

Have you inspected/replaced the INNER tie rods? What about the rack end bushing?

I don't see how new axles would make vibration worse... unless its coming from inside your trans somehow.

Is your car lowered?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have not looked at the inner tie rods, or the rack end bushing. the rack is manual, and not very old (maybe 2-3 years). i should still check it, though.

i do have a strange 'click' inside the tranny when i turn the wheels by hand when it's up on jackstands (it clicks when i first turn the wheel(s) and then it is quiet)...i have an OEM ITR LSD, and have been curious that if that was going south, maybe that could be causing the problem.

the car is lowered, about 1.5". race-valved koni yellows with GC sleeves and tophats and 600# hypercoil springs (all 4 corners).

thanks,

peter

R1020

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the front LCA bushings where they connect to the subframe and - I know this might seem odd - pull your brake calipers off and make sure the pistons are even in their bores. If one or more of them are cocked funny, that could be causing a pad to push the rotor around and make a harmonic vibration.

Sounds like a bitch of a problem. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

i've checked the bushings...and they are showing some slight signs on wear. i have a full energy suspension kit ready to go in, i just haven't had the time....

i've checked the brakes and they are operating perfectly - all pads and both rotors are wearing evenly (stock brakes w/ porterfield R4S pads).

peter

instructor74

Check the brake rotor with a run out dial to see if you have a slight warp. Also check the lower ball joints. I had one that tested good and 5 shops missed it. We found it when you push up on the wheel from the bottom with no load on the suspension the ball joint came apart about a 1/4 of an inch

Kruzen510

Same problem on by buddys old 96 GS-R, could never figure out the problem. very strange. good luck.

R1020

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the brake rotor with a run out dial to see if you have a slight warp. Also check the lower ball joints. I had one that tested good and 5 shops missed it. We found it when you push up on the wheel from the bottom with no load on the suspension the ball joint came apart about a 1/4 of an inch </TD></TR></TABLE>

if the rotors were warped, i would feel it when braking. and i don't - braking is strong and smooth.

i'll check the ball joints again...tomorrow night, along with the rack.

thanks...

peter

axtran

another thing to look at is the motor mounts.. the back mount was a case with my old EG (the new owner let me know) so check the tightness of your mounts!

R1020

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by axtran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another thing to look at is the motor mounts.. the back mount was a case with my old EG (the new owner let me know) so check the tightness of your mounts!</TD></TR></TABLE>

they are on my list of things to check - hopefully tonight.

i forgot to include some info - not only is it transmitting vibration through the steering wheel but also through the floor/pedals.

thanks,

peter

b20efhatch

i had a similar problem
but mine didnt vibrate to bad
i just couldnt keep front tires
my problem when i went to get aligned was the guy said my inner tie rod was bad
tie rod $35 labor $50
i wouldnt try to put it in yourself unless u can get it aligned immediately
good luck

R1020

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20efhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had a similar problem
but mine didnt vibrate to bad
i just couldnt keep front tires
my problem when i went to get aligned was the guy said my inner tie rod was bad
tie rod $35 labor $50
i wouldnt try to put it in yourself unless u can get it aligned immediately
good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

my tires are wearing evenly, so i'm pretty sure my alignment is fine (and i had it aligned about 6 months ago). but i will check that when i check the rack....when i did the basic left-right play test when the car was up in the air, the rack was tight....no slop anywhere...

sometimes i hate cars.

peter