TylerWestPwnz

I am extremely tired of a good amount of my friends and random people texting me asking misc. questions about throttle bodys and throttle body spacers, so i decided to hop on my buddys car and do a DIY with instructions.

First let me clarify, if you seriously can not do this you may be out of your flippn mind, its as simple as a header install/cat back install, BUT EASIER, its a direct bolt on.

Okay so lets clarify some things

Whats is throttle body?
A throttle body allows air to come from your intake into your intake manifold, and then into the head for compression. When the gas is compressed it pulls on the throttle wire, which the best comparison for is a brake assembly on a bike, you make it too tight, your always stopping, make it too short, you will never actually give on the breaks, the same principal applies with your throttle cable, which causes the amount of air coming in (more air=higher amounts of air compressed=more power when compared to idle) when you occur idle problems, just mess with your throttle cable until there is no slack on your cable, but at the same time is not tightened.

What is a throttle body spacer?
The throttle body spacer goes between your throttle body and your intake manifold, causing more air to be joined up and be put into the engine. The best kind i have seen are the vortex version, which brings a spin of air (tornado effect) into the manifold increasing amount being compressed.

What kind of power increase can i expect?
Many companies offer different products with different results, for example skunk2 claims a 50+ horsepower gain, if it is completely true, i do not know, but given the principle of a larger throttle body, allowing more air to be consumed, it will obviously have a different response then the stock unit. When it comes to throttle body spacers, same principals apply, when more air is put into the manifold, more power can be produced, dyno proven results? Yeah i dont have them.

What is my OEM throttle body size?
It all depends on your motor, here is a list, just play where's waldo and you can link them up.

D15B7_____________________56MM
D16A6_____________________55MM
D16Y7_____________________56MM
D16Y8_____________________56MM
D16Z6_____________________56MM
ZC________________________55MM
D16A1_____________________55MM
D16A8_____________________55MM
B18C1_____________________60MM
B18C5_____________________62MM
B18A______________________58MM
B18B______________________60MM
B16A SiR___________________58MM
B16A SiR2__________________60MM
B16A2_____________________60MM
B16A3_____________________60MM
B20B______________________60MM
B20Z______________________60MM
H22A______________________60MM
H23A______________________60MM
F20C______________________62MM
F22_______________________60MM
F23_______________________60MM

HERES THE DO IT YOURSELF PORTION

For my buddy's car.
I used a 70mm throttle body as well as an OBX throttle body spacer.

STEP ONE
Take off the nagative terminal of the battery, yeah i said it, your ecu is going to have to reboot because of the amount of air coming into your intake manifold and it will allow your ECU to alter itself, last step will explain, chill out.

STEP TWO
Disconnect the throttle cable which is attached to your manifold via two bolts, reasoning being that well, you aren't going to get anywhere if you cant move your throttle body around. while your at it go ahead and disconnect the sensor map that is at the top of your manifold, by disconnect i mean just unplug, unless you are taking off your entire throttle body, then its self explanatory.

STEP THREE
take your intake off of your current throttle body, held on by radiator hoses, and silicone cupping, usually are able to be taken off with a flat head screwdriver.

STEP FOUR
Take the 4 bolts holding your throttle body to the manifold, use a .5in socket wrench/regular wrench.

(if your intake manifold had the same problem as this one did where two bolts were actual bolts, the other two were threaded with a nut on the end, the best thing to do in my opinion is take one of the nuts and one of the bolts that actually came off, without the throttle attached to the intake manifold, and put half the nut on each of them, then tighten until it comes all the way through, then you have the open hole to put in your new bolts)

STEP FIVE
Line up your throttle body spacer with your gasket that should have came with your package, have one on each side of the spacer, match it up on your manifold and your throttle body.

(wouldn't hurt to clean off your throttle body and spacer previous to installing parts, just saying)

STEP SIX
Take new bolts and thread them through the throttle body, then throttle spacer, then manifold.

STEP SEVEN
Tighten down your bolts, and reattach your intake to the throttle body, might as well attach your map sensor as well.

STEP EIGHT
Play with your throttle cable, move bolts around your stay back and forth in order to find out where they best match up, without giving too much or too little slack. Then bolt down stay to the intake and make sure that throttle cable is not too much or too little slack still while bolted down.

STEP NINE
Reconnect negative battery terminal, allow the car to sit while running for roughly ten minutes in order for the ECU to determine the amount of rpm's set to idol.

(if you still have problems at this point there are only a couple of options available, one you can play with your throttle cable more, and make sure there is no slack, and its not tightened and/or sprung too tightly causing it to always be tightened, the next option, is get rid of the piece of junk, you just wasted your time, congratulations)

With the car's new throttle body and throttle body spacer, there is actually a noticeable difference in low end performance, with my obdii reader connected to my laptop the compression ratio was altered by the ECU, and it seems to have a little higher HP, not enough to the point i would brag when saying parts put on the car, but enough to the point where it would make someone looking for a cheap, quick HP gain that is not significant to be happy)

40mpgd15b7

for the d15b7 ...im having a couple problems getting the throttle body out far enough. first the throttle linkage cable does not have enough slack, the cable brack was off from the manifold, and theres a vacuum hose from the throttle body to the intake manifold thats short and doesnt allow me to pull the throttle body out far enough. the hose is not long enough for the throttle body to fit over the throttle body spacer, would i have to buy a new hose and cut to length? or is there a new hose i can get thats molded and the right length?

Veggie Man

iTrader: (2)

What program do you use for you obd2 reader?

HondaPartsHero

I know this is an old bump but please don't waste your time with throttle body spacers and by no means can the computer "alter the compression ratio".