Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
04-18-2015, 04:39 PM
#2301
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Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Got my modded Honda Access Auto Light installed and working.
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...t-mod-3245459/
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...t-mod-3245459/
04-18-2015, 10:11 PM
#2302
Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Got my modded Honda Access Auto Light installed and working.
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...t-mod-3245459/
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...t-mod-3245459/
For me today I replaced the buggered flex gasket from the A pipe to the catalytic converter, then I drained my fresh oil, pulled my new oil filter, put my old dirty filter on, put 2 liters 15w40 motor oil in and topped up with my slightly used 5w30 oil, then added 6oz of Berryman's B-12 to the crank case and proceeded to do 15 minutes fast idle (1500-1800 rpm) followed by 30 minutes regular idle for a total of 45 minutes of engine flush.
If that doesn't unstick sticking piston rings, I don't know what will.
Anyways, long drained the oil to where it barely dripped with the nose raised, swap the oil filter to my new AC Delco Duraguard, put back in the remainder of my barely used 5w30 motor oil and topped up with fresh. Ran her and checked for leaks and finished the top up and called it a day.
Now I just need to add an oil catch can as I believe I have a fair amount of blow by causing excess oil to go through the pcv system into the intake.
Will have to maintain engine flushes to keep the rings from gumming up, but hopefully I can keep her from smelling so bad.
Love my 95 Civic Hatchback.
04-20-2015, 07:41 PM
#2306
Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Nice looking engine bay. I agree on the header comment. BTW: Your ground strap on the valve-cover is wrong, and probably hurting your ignition system. It needs to be on one of the valve-cover studs to function. The valve-cover itself is electrically isolated from the engine block via all the gaskets, so there is no reason to ground it. The hole you attached it too is for the RHD throttle cable. I see this mistake all the time.
04-20-2015, 08:47 PM
#2307
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Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Nice looking engine bay. I agree on the header comment. BTW: Your ground strap on the valve-cover is wrong, and probably hurting your ignition system. It needs to be on one of the valve-cover studs to function. The valve-cover itself is electrically isolated from the engine block via all the gaskets, so there is no reason to ground it. The hole you attached it too is for the RHD throttle cable. I see this mistake all the time.
04-22-2015, 04:30 AM
#2309
Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Not to mention, those valve covers are shitty conductors to begin with, even if there was continuity, there'd be so much resistance the functionality of the ground wire is now cut by leagues.
I short, it may look better, but it functions much much worse.
I short, it may look better, but it functions much much worse.
04-23-2015, 02:05 PM
#2312
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Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Nice cars here. I found a roof rack for my 97 Coupe. However, it's from a 97 hatch. Will it fit?
04-25-2015, 12:21 PM
#2314
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Changed the oil in my sol today. Pennzoil 5w30 high mileage blend, with a fram filter, and replaced the drain bolt.
04-26-2015, 02:22 PM
#2315
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Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Did a tune up (spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, cabin filter) and went for a nice long drive. From Aurora down to Pueblo, loved the feeling of Larry (my 00 EX) back at full pep. The old plugs were worn quite badly, even though they didn't have too many miles (looking into the cause). Did a couple of higher speed pulls, I love our posted 75mph limits. Felt nice to stretch my legs for a few hours 
Last edited by roadtripgirl; 04-26-2015 at 03:08 PM.
04-26-2015, 06:35 PM
#2316
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Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
i'll have to do some tests later with my meter
04-26-2015, 10:59 PM
#2317
GDD's Resident Derp
Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Sealed up my Head Gasket real nice today, since something in the engine responds well to the sealer no matter who says I don't necessarily have a blown HG even though I have either that, or something that produces exact same symptoms. Car runs great again.
04-26-2015, 10:59 PM
#2318
GDD's Resident Derp
04-27-2015, 10:05 PM
#2320
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Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Decided to I wanted remove my subframe for rust protection . Was also gonna remove power steering. Got majority of the way there didn't wanna damage the steering rack not sure how it's mounted and it was getting dark so left it all loose.
Ended up reading about power steering for ages. Decided to keep it.
Then read something about the front end sagging. Just hoping there is no rust there
So pretty much a waste of a day
Ended up reading about power steering for ages. Decided to keep it.
Then read something about the front end sagging. Just hoping there is no rust there
So pretty much a waste of a day
04-27-2015, 10:28 PM
#2321
Crazy Honda Guy
Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Pulled the engine out of my 2000 sedan. I have a very minty one to replace it with only 70 thousand original miles. Of course new clutch/flywheel, seals, timing belt and thermostat.
04-29-2015, 03:55 AM
#2322
Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Only 280whp cuz Kraftwerks fails to mention info about oem pulleys with their pulleys. After researching I can add 70whp from a gsr crank pulley and a rotrex 110mm Sc pulley, keeping redline at 8400 rpms. Currently I'm only on 7.5 psi with stock ITR crank pulley and a 120mm sc pulley. Blower is only at 80% of max or 20,000 rpms lower than max 100k
05-01-2015, 05:20 AM
#2324
Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
12v shouldn't be enough to cause issues for you, but I'd encase a couple that are closer to one another in some hot glue just to be sure you don't have any bridging of circuits under load.
05-02-2015, 05:25 PM
#2325
Re: Tell Us What You Did To Your EG/EK/Del Sol Today
Swapped the pads and drums on my wifes 93 civic dx only to find the passenger parking brake adjuster was worn through from a previous install done incorrectly. Replaced and put the brakes back together, pumped the brakes 50 or so times to re-adjust the parking brake. Took the car around the block and noticed the pedal would sink to the floor.
Used these tests to determine the MC is bad:
Sunday I get to go out to Empire and pull a used MC so my wife's car will be safe again. Pedal only sinks with the car running though. With the car off, it builds pressure. And all the Booster checks seemed to work just fine.
Not sure why the pedal won't sink with the car off though.
Here I come bench bleeding.... Without a vice. *sigh*
Used these tests to determine the MC is bad:
Functional Test
1. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times to deplete the vacuum reservoir, then firmly press-and-hold the brake pedal for 15 seconds. If the brake pedal sinks, either the MC is internally bypassing, or there is a leak in the brake system. (mc, lines, prop valve, calipers, wheel cylinders, etc)
2. With the brake pedal pressed, start the engine. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is okay. However, if the brake pedal height does not vary, the check valve or booster is faulty.
3. With the engine running, lightly press the brake pedal. If the pedal sinks more than 3/8" (10mm) in three minutes, the master cylinder is faulty. (If the A/C is on, a slight change in the height of the brake pedal is normal.)
Leak Test
1. With the engine running, press-and-hold the brake pedal, then turn the engine off. If the pedal height does not vary while pressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is okay. If the brake pedal rises, the booster is bad.
2. Turn the engine off and wait for about 30 seconds. Press the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the brake pedal is first pressed, it should be low, then gradually rise with each consecutive compression. If the position of the pedal does not vary, inspect the booster check valve.
3. Disconnect the vacuum hose (check valve built-in) at the brake booster.
4. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If there is no vacuum, the check valve is not functioning properly. Replace the vacuum hose, and retest.
5. With the engine running, pinch the vacuum hose between the check valve and the booster.
6. Turn the engine off and wait for about 30 seconds. Press the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. Again, the brake pedal should be low when it's first pressed, gradually rising with each consecutive compression. If the pedal position does not vary, replace the booster. If the pedal position does vary, replace the vacuum hose / check valve assembly.
1. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times to deplete the vacuum reservoir, then firmly press-and-hold the brake pedal for 15 seconds. If the brake pedal sinks, either the MC is internally bypassing, or there is a leak in the brake system. (mc, lines, prop valve, calipers, wheel cylinders, etc)
2. With the brake pedal pressed, start the engine. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is okay. However, if the brake pedal height does not vary, the check valve or booster is faulty.
3. With the engine running, lightly press the brake pedal. If the pedal sinks more than 3/8" (10mm) in three minutes, the master cylinder is faulty. (If the A/C is on, a slight change in the height of the brake pedal is normal.)
Leak Test
1. With the engine running, press-and-hold the brake pedal, then turn the engine off. If the pedal height does not vary while pressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is okay. If the brake pedal rises, the booster is bad.
2. Turn the engine off and wait for about 30 seconds. Press the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the brake pedal is first pressed, it should be low, then gradually rise with each consecutive compression. If the position of the pedal does not vary, inspect the booster check valve.
3. Disconnect the vacuum hose (check valve built-in) at the brake booster.
4. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If there is no vacuum, the check valve is not functioning properly. Replace the vacuum hose, and retest.
5. With the engine running, pinch the vacuum hose between the check valve and the booster.
6. Turn the engine off and wait for about 30 seconds. Press the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. Again, the brake pedal should be low when it's first pressed, gradually rising with each consecutive compression. If the pedal position does not vary, replace the booster. If the pedal position does vary, replace the vacuum hose / check valve assembly.
Not sure why the pedal won't sink with the car off though.
Here I come bench bleeding.... Without a vice. *sigh*