Adankid

put dw-40 down the chamber, and tighten it a bit, and loosen it slowly, tighten it back, and re-loosen it. keep doing that, it will eventually come out.

this happened to me, and this is the method i used to take it out,

i did this 3 days ago and it worked.

trustdestruction

well if he can't get it to budge and the plugs have been in there a very long time, i wouldn't recommend trying to tighten it... the plug would be pretty easy to accidentally snap with that method.

joelmatt89

Well your first part doesn't make a whole lot of sense whenever i have bolts that won't come off I hit them with a torch so they get nice and red and they come off like butter I would assume these guys are suggesting the same principle. It has to do with which will expand more the head or the plug, I am not really sure which one expands more but if you are i stand corrected.

Secondly yes they have to come off someday but someday doesn't have to be now, in between now and some day the op can give them some good baths in pb blaster so they will come out much easier there is no way to add more work if it could have possibly been avoided.

JarvisW

I've had an aluminum head disentragrate its threads when I torqued it too hard, in a situation just like this.

The plug came loose, and came with about 3/4th of the threads still stuck to it.

IIRC, it also cracked it between the plug and valve, but it wasn't a Honda.

1nsoman1ac

swet...does pb blaster really work? i mean those things are on there really tight..i cant imagine anything digging its way to the threads

trustdestruction

if PB blaster doesn't work, I don't know any penetrant that will.

JarvisW

Yep, PB Blaster rules! I couldn't get several bolts loose on my 300k engine. A bit of a soak with PB, and the next day they all came loose, except one, which took some more PB soaking, and one more night before it gave.

And After that (previous post) I've always used anti-seize on aluminum heads.

joelmatt89

Actually I can't remember where I had this article but there are like three products that work significantly better however pb blaster is the most easy to find. Two of the products were about 25% more effective and the other was like a home made acid mix that was 4 times more effective. But someone mentioned it getting to the threads actually like 90% of the time it's not the threads but the head of the bolt or in this case plug that locks up.

1nsoman1ac

cool il have to get some of that..yeah i was using a craftsman ratchet, with a 3/8 extension and the plug fitting. didnt ****ing budge. lol where can i get antisieze.and how does it work? also, i have a bennen fuel rail. and a blox FPR. the FPR says to cut the sock one 1/4 inch down from the top and attach the blox one to it. anyone done this? and i want to run AN fittings formt he filter to the rail. i read somewhere peopl use -6AN and -8AN. whats the difference and which one do i need?

sory for all the questions guys lol. im new to tuning an just want to learn to be like you someday, answering newfolks questions liek a master training his apprentice.

trustdestruction

i bet you use both. one size for the rail, one size for the filter

JarvisW

anti-sieze comes in lil packets usually at the parts counter when you check out.

Or it will be in a bit bigger tubes with all the other gasket, plastic, tube type stuff isle at the parts stores.

It works because metal spark plugs and aluminum heads dont like each other and will fuse together. Sort of like rusting, but more like working like a battery. One side transfers atoms to the other. I'm sure someone will clarify it. I'm just balparkin it lol. The A-S works to prevent that, as it keeps the metals from directly contacting as much as it would w/o it.

1nsoman1ac

oh wow...thanks for he info jarvis...i appreciate it. il have to get some so this problem dosnt occur again lol. can u use it on basiclaly anyting? do the bolts eventually knock loose? or is it so fine of a compund that its still a tight seal?

trustdestruction

It won't come loose if you torque it to specs.

Anti-seize is most commonly used on suspension bolts and spark plugs. There's many other bolts you can use it on though.


Oh, and it's like 99 cents at the counter for a packet, which is more than enough for 4 plugs.

Don't get the compound on the electrode though, try to keep it clean and keep the compound on the threads. Just a real light coat on the threads will suffice.

1nsoman1ac

awsome. thank you everyone for all the info and help! i just have one last question. MSD claims their cap, rotor, external coil make the car idle better and all that other crap. is it really true? or is it a sales pitch?

trustdestruction

sales pitch

TravisCadello

^^^ Maybe, I know it will provide a better and hotter spark then OEM ****.

trustdestruction

OEM ignition is actually pretty decent as long as you keep the rotor and cap maintained (replaced when worn) and replace the coil when it goes bad.

1nsoman1ac

well msd seems liek its cheaper than oem lol. and i have a chance to get the whol setup with the external blaster ss coil for 50
brand new. so i mean...lol. have you guys en my engine bay? its in my build thread...just curious wat you all think and any suggestions on what to do next...

i have an OBX intakre mani, fujita type r intake, a bennen fuel rail and some other stuff laying around waiting to be put on the car.

trustdestruction

what are the goals? why do you have a benen fuel rail?

1nsoman1ac

m..cuz the stock one blows ****...the ful line is like twisted to hell..its a 93 civic wth a 96 ls swap. i cant put in my intake, nor my strut bar. i need to run a braided line. but yeah.i have a turbo sitting around not in use...maybe turbo someday. um right now im going with making the car look decent. ive been doing a lot of fixing up . and im going just motor right now. i mihgt do a b16 head swap later on...liek over the next month or two....to get high compression. and then get into into internal engine.

TravisCadello

if your gonna upgrade the injectors or spray on it then go with the MSD **** it will burn the spray more efficiently.

medorihb

i guess none of you have ever worked on gm. aluminum heads will strip. people come into the shop with over 100k on the motor and want a tune up and gm puts **** in the strangest places and ive had plugs that have stripped on me when trying to remove. so yeah they can strip. Snap-on FTMFW. always warranted

JarvisW

I guess you didn't read the thread, cause I said the same thing.

1nsoman1ac

lmao. alright...well looks like ima have to go out and tear off a piece of my roomates dads trailer to make a breaker pole lol. and weld it to my dam ratchet. lmao

JarvisW

Um no! Use PB Blaster.

You dont want head in your sparkplugs! (Unlike chocolate in your peanut butter )