SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW
08-29-2008, 09:53 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: California
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TIPS ON PASSING ENHANCED SMOG PROGRAM AREA
Here 20 tips to passing the most strict smog check in the whole country:
1) Get a good Engine Tune if your engine is not stock, ecu tuning via uberdata, crome, hondata, etc, make sure you use wideband o2 sensor like Bosch lm-1 or lc-1 to make sure air/fuel ratio is close to 14:7 at most throttle speeds, which is perfect air/fuel ratio, but at middle throttle 13:6, and full throttle at 12:5. If your car is tuned to 14:7 you should have no problem passing the CO and HC portion of the test, sometimes you will have to lean it out to 15:1 to get everything efficient enough to pass. (Reduces CO, somewhat an effect on HC and NOx).
2) Check Timing, this is another thing when tuning, make sure there no knock by advancing the timing, better to retard than to advance, but just make sure stock timing at idle is set between 14 and 18 degrees, 16 degree preferred. If your running high compression you will need to run more conservative timing to not increase your NOx, knock, and to run more efficient, but if you retard it works against you. Make sure you still got the overlap from the cam gears, set them back to stock, as overlap helps with bring NOx down lower. (Reduces HC, NO). Maximum you can retard is 2 degrees at most smog checks.
3) Replace or clean O2 Sensor if old. I enabled the use wideband input for closed loop operation in hondata, hid the LM-1 under the gloove box. Tuning only brings down CO (Reduces CO)
4) Replace/Calibrate TPS Sensor, if you got tuning software, this an be adjusted easily, the ecu must read the correct throttle or it will inject the wrong fuel and air into the engine and cause it to run poorly. Idle is greatly affected by the TPS sensor, if it reads too low then it idles too low, if it reads too high then it idles too high (Reduces CO)
5) Replace MAP Sensor if bad, checks pressure in mbar and tells the computer what the intake pressure is at. Idle is largely affected. (Reduces CO)
6) Replace broken/remove Thermostat, if its broken and doesnt open then you will overheat and lean out, if its stuck open then you run too cold and too rich, since i was running high compression I had to remove the thermostat all together, but if you running anything above 11:1 compression then I recommended spoon or mugen for better cooling, I just removed the thermostat and it ran at the perfect temperature (Reduces NO, CO)
7) Radiator fan sensor, helps cool down the engine if its overheating a lot, I had hondata so I just set it to turn on lower temperature (Reduces NO)
8) Get colder spark plugs - if your running a compression of 10:1 then use heat range 6, 11:1 then use heat range 7, 12:1 and above get heat range 8 or 9 (Reduces NO)
9) New or clean Oil, Oil Filter, PCV - I recommend Quaker State and good K&N oil filter. Oil stores HC which is unburned fuel, too much stored in the oil will increase your smog greatly, poor quality oil will also cause more friction, increasing NOx (Reduces HC, somewhat an effect on NOx)
10) Replace Distributor, Cap, Rotor, and Spark Plug Wires - if your getting backfire then it could be something to do with these, better to change them out then fail the test. If your not getting enough spark then you will have unburnt fuel leftover after the burn (Reduces HC)
11) Injectors are clean, pinto injectors tend to get dirty much easier than rc injectors, I recommend if your using RC injectors get a tune, for some reason they run so much different than stock, they squirt out more faster so you will need a good tune to compensate, cant just throw in the same size expecting the same flow. (Reduces CO, will effect HC if the injectors are clogged)
12) Fill your with good Gas that the engine was tuned for, if the car was tuned with 91 then run 91, the reason I say this is because when you tune to 14:7 air/ratio your tuned for the specific gas, and if you put anything high octane or lower than you will be running at a different air/fuel ratio and could make you fail smog, octane boosters are only gimmicks, can cause you to run rich because the higher the octane the harder it is to burn the fuel, leaving more CO and HC. (Reduces CO, HC)
13) Air filter upgrade, if you got K&N or AEM aftermarket air filter then you changed it from stock and will probably need a need, but this upgrade is minimum so it can still pass, will need CARB#, but if you put an intake on expecting it to run good on a stock ecu, it will take the stock computer some time to readjust itself to run good again (Reduces CO)
14) Throttle body upgrade, if you increased the size you will need a tune regardless, because it also affects air acceleration characteristics. (Reduce CO)
15) Intake Manifold upgrade, even if its got a CARB#, doesn't mean it will pass with a stock ecu, such as skunk2 intake manifolds, you need to get it tuned or do alot of driving to let your stock ecu readjust itself. (Reduce CO)
16) Camshaft upgrades, as long as your overlap is still there then there should be no problem with lifting NOx levels too high (Reduces NO)
17) Valve adjustment, will help it all together if your motor has over 100k miles on it. (Reduce CO,HC,NO)
18) Pistons upgrade, decrease or increase compression will do nothing to your CO and HC, but affects NOx. If your running compression higher than 11:1 then your NO will increase double the legal limit, so make sure you got 2 catalyst converters in good proper working condition. A good tune and gas will fix this problem. (Increase NOx if you increase compression)
19) Header upgrade, aftermarket not always better for emissions, all that CARB# don't pass emissions. However, living in California, not a great idea to go aftermarket over the stock iron piece exhaust manifold. Several reasons to use the stock header, one reason is it warms up three times hotter than stainless steel and ceramic. Two, if the header has a catalyst converter integrated into the header, the catalyst converter will run 80 percent more efficient than if it was on the exhaust which is running only 30 percent efficient. Which is the reason all California Compliant cars have the catalyst converter on the header. Too bad most honda's weren't CA complaint, only ones i can think on top of my head are Honda Civic CX, VX Honda CRX HF (Reduces HC, NOx)
20) Buy 2 new Catalyst Converters every 3-4 years, if you live in CA, this is probably the normal maintenance interval thing to do. You will have to replace these every other smog check because they don't last more than 3 years. The stock cat will last significantly longer, i don't know why, maybe there made better from the factory. Also, if there is any leaks before the catalyst converters, then it will get too much air/o2 and will let through too much Nitrogen air into the system which will result in poorly converting NOx into N and O. So make sure there your exhaust is tied down tight and there no leaks. Since honda didnt put an egr valve, the only way it can reduce NOx is by overlap and catalyst converter. It is recommended to use 2 catalyst converters, one welded on the header, one on the exhaust for extra insurance. Unfornately, the b16 and b18 engines did not come with 2 catalyst converters, one on the header and one on the exhaust. Only some d15s, d16s, d17s have it CA complaint. (Reduces HC, NOx)
Things to know:
CO2 Higher the better (sign of combustion efficiency) 14.7 is the perfect place to be at if its higher than your running too lean. In california they want your car to run at 15.1 even up to the middle throttle, which is not good for the motor but good for emissions.
O2 should be less than 1% - if it is higher than you got a leak somewhere or its not being efficient in burning the O2.
CO is incomplete combustion - can be caused by bad ignition such as spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, timing, etc.
HC is unburnt gas (raw fuel) - can be caused by running too rich which can kill the catalyst converter over time. Misfire or foul out is an indication there too much fuel. Causes can range from o2 sensor, spark plugs, not enough timing, to other serious problems like bad fuel pressure regulator.
NOx created by high temperatures and high pressure - causes are usually running too lean and can range from bad catalyst converter, o2 sensor, injectors, radiator, thermostat, timing too advanced, high compression.
Pick a perfect day, if its cold then make sure the car is warmed up, if its hot just make sure the engine isn't overheating, but try to pick a perfect day it will do wonders. There no replacement for a good tune, a tune is everything in passing the emissions test, make sure everything looks stealthy so you pass the visual, I used a hondata to do all the tuning.
Modified by lek9l at 11:30 PM 8/29/2008
1) Get a good Engine Tune if your engine is not stock, ecu tuning via uberdata, crome, hondata, etc, make sure you use wideband o2 sensor like Bosch lm-1 or lc-1 to make sure air/fuel ratio is close to 14:7 at most throttle speeds, which is perfect air/fuel ratio, but at middle throttle 13:6, and full throttle at 12:5. If your car is tuned to 14:7 you should have no problem passing the CO and HC portion of the test, sometimes you will have to lean it out to 15:1 to get everything efficient enough to pass. (Reduces CO, somewhat an effect on HC and NOx).
2) Check Timing, this is another thing when tuning, make sure there no knock by advancing the timing, better to retard than to advance, but just make sure stock timing at idle is set between 14 and 18 degrees, 16 degree preferred. If your running high compression you will need to run more conservative timing to not increase your NOx, knock, and to run more efficient, but if you retard it works against you. Make sure you still got the overlap from the cam gears, set them back to stock, as overlap helps with bring NOx down lower. (Reduces HC, NO). Maximum you can retard is 2 degrees at most smog checks.
3) Replace or clean O2 Sensor if old. I enabled the use wideband input for closed loop operation in hondata, hid the LM-1 under the gloove box. Tuning only brings down CO (Reduces CO)
4) Replace/Calibrate TPS Sensor, if you got tuning software, this an be adjusted easily, the ecu must read the correct throttle or it will inject the wrong fuel and air into the engine and cause it to run poorly. Idle is greatly affected by the TPS sensor, if it reads too low then it idles too low, if it reads too high then it idles too high (Reduces CO)
5) Replace MAP Sensor if bad, checks pressure in mbar and tells the computer what the intake pressure is at. Idle is largely affected. (Reduces CO)
6) Replace broken/remove Thermostat, if its broken and doesnt open then you will overheat and lean out, if its stuck open then you run too cold and too rich, since i was running high compression I had to remove the thermostat all together, but if you running anything above 11:1 compression then I recommended spoon or mugen for better cooling, I just removed the thermostat and it ran at the perfect temperature (Reduces NO, CO)
7) Radiator fan sensor, helps cool down the engine if its overheating a lot, I had hondata so I just set it to turn on lower temperature (Reduces NO)
8) Get colder spark plugs - if your running a compression of 10:1 then use heat range 6, 11:1 then use heat range 7, 12:1 and above get heat range 8 or 9 (Reduces NO)
9) New or clean Oil, Oil Filter, PCV - I recommend Quaker State and good K&N oil filter. Oil stores HC which is unburned fuel, too much stored in the oil will increase your smog greatly, poor quality oil will also cause more friction, increasing NOx (Reduces HC, somewhat an effect on NOx)
10) Replace Distributor, Cap, Rotor, and Spark Plug Wires - if your getting backfire then it could be something to do with these, better to change them out then fail the test. If your not getting enough spark then you will have unburnt fuel leftover after the burn (Reduces HC)
11) Injectors are clean, pinto injectors tend to get dirty much easier than rc injectors, I recommend if your using RC injectors get a tune, for some reason they run so much different than stock, they squirt out more faster so you will need a good tune to compensate, cant just throw in the same size expecting the same flow. (Reduces CO, will effect HC if the injectors are clogged)
12) Fill your with good Gas that the engine was tuned for, if the car was tuned with 91 then run 91, the reason I say this is because when you tune to 14:7 air/ratio your tuned for the specific gas, and if you put anything high octane or lower than you will be running at a different air/fuel ratio and could make you fail smog, octane boosters are only gimmicks, can cause you to run rich because the higher the octane the harder it is to burn the fuel, leaving more CO and HC. (Reduces CO, HC)
13) Air filter upgrade, if you got K&N or AEM aftermarket air filter then you changed it from stock and will probably need a need, but this upgrade is minimum so it can still pass, will need CARB#, but if you put an intake on expecting it to run good on a stock ecu, it will take the stock computer some time to readjust itself to run good again (Reduces CO)
14) Throttle body upgrade, if you increased the size you will need a tune regardless, because it also affects air acceleration characteristics. (Reduce CO)
15) Intake Manifold upgrade, even if its got a CARB#, doesn't mean it will pass with a stock ecu, such as skunk2 intake manifolds, you need to get it tuned or do alot of driving to let your stock ecu readjust itself. (Reduce CO)
16) Camshaft upgrades, as long as your overlap is still there then there should be no problem with lifting NOx levels too high (Reduces NO)
17) Valve adjustment, will help it all together if your motor has over 100k miles on it. (Reduce CO,HC,NO)
18) Pistons upgrade, decrease or increase compression will do nothing to your CO and HC, but affects NOx. If your running compression higher than 11:1 then your NO will increase double the legal limit, so make sure you got 2 catalyst converters in good proper working condition. A good tune and gas will fix this problem. (Increase NOx if you increase compression)
19) Header upgrade, aftermarket not always better for emissions, all that CARB# don't pass emissions. However, living in California, not a great idea to go aftermarket over the stock iron piece exhaust manifold. Several reasons to use the stock header, one reason is it warms up three times hotter than stainless steel and ceramic. Two, if the header has a catalyst converter integrated into the header, the catalyst converter will run 80 percent more efficient than if it was on the exhaust which is running only 30 percent efficient. Which is the reason all California Compliant cars have the catalyst converter on the header. Too bad most honda's weren't CA complaint, only ones i can think on top of my head are Honda Civic CX, VX Honda CRX HF (Reduces HC, NOx)
20) Buy 2 new Catalyst Converters every 3-4 years, if you live in CA, this is probably the normal maintenance interval thing to do. You will have to replace these every other smog check because they don't last more than 3 years. The stock cat will last significantly longer, i don't know why, maybe there made better from the factory. Also, if there is any leaks before the catalyst converters, then it will get too much air/o2 and will let through too much Nitrogen air into the system which will result in poorly converting NOx into N and O. So make sure there your exhaust is tied down tight and there no leaks. Since honda didnt put an egr valve, the only way it can reduce NOx is by overlap and catalyst converter. It is recommended to use 2 catalyst converters, one welded on the header, one on the exhaust for extra insurance. Unfornately, the b16 and b18 engines did not come with 2 catalyst converters, one on the header and one on the exhaust. Only some d15s, d16s, d17s have it CA complaint. (Reduces HC, NOx)
Things to know:
CO2 Higher the better (sign of combustion efficiency) 14.7 is the perfect place to be at if its higher than your running too lean. In california they want your car to run at 15.1 even up to the middle throttle, which is not good for the motor but good for emissions.
O2 should be less than 1% - if it is higher than you got a leak somewhere or its not being efficient in burning the O2.
CO is incomplete combustion - can be caused by bad ignition such as spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, timing, etc.
HC is unburnt gas (raw fuel) - can be caused by running too rich which can kill the catalyst converter over time. Misfire or foul out is an indication there too much fuel. Causes can range from o2 sensor, spark plugs, not enough timing, to other serious problems like bad fuel pressure regulator.
NOx created by high temperatures and high pressure - causes are usually running too lean and can range from bad catalyst converter, o2 sensor, injectors, radiator, thermostat, timing too advanced, high compression.
Pick a perfect day, if its cold then make sure the car is warmed up, if its hot just make sure the engine isn't overheating, but try to pick a perfect day it will do wonders. There no replacement for a good tune, a tune is everything in passing the emissions test, make sure everything looks stealthy so you pass the visual, I used a hondata to do all the tuning.
Modified by lek9l at 11:30 PM 8/29/2008
Last edited by lek9l; 04-08-2012 at 11:43 AM.
08-29-2008, 10:46 PM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sunny Daygo, Ca, USA
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (lek9l)
Are all these tips facts? I don't understand how you give 2 tips on keeping the car cool. You want the car hot so the catalytic converter can do its job. Another thing you say replace air filter, then say more air in = the more that comes out. Replacing to a new air filter will make more smog come out too then.... last thing you say run 91 octane, alcohol, and racing gas. Are you kidding? Its like you want us to fail, running lean is a good thing for smog.
Other than those 3 or more things, good advice.
Other than those 3 or more things, good advice.
08-29-2008, 10:54 PM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CA, 95682
Posts: 1,514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (r3vmixman)
tx for the info i hope the ref never opens again, i have to finish my h22 hatch then before it opens again, also i just came from smog from today on my prelude it gross poluted on 15mph and fail on 25mph, car is stock right now except dc headers, HC was high
08-30-2008, 12:24 AM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (ekb16)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so ur saying ppl wit swaps can take it to a reg. smog shop and they will smog the car even tho its not Bar'd?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup!
didnt read the OPs post but i had a ref ticket for my h22 ej, just went and smogged it and now its registerd.
yup!
didnt read the OPs post but i had a ref ticket for my h22 ej, just went and smogged it and now its registerd.
Trending Topics
08-30-2008, 04:20 AM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (K i l l a B e e.)
cali budget cuts fired them all, so no! no more Refs no bars. this is old news.
Edit:
if you have or had a ref ticket and still are not regesterd, go get a smog. when the smog station scans the bar code on your registration it will allow them to smog and not stop then with comunication because of the DMV. Howver Ref tickets are still being issued, some requiring you to see the judge.
Modified by THC07 at 6:22 AM 8/30/2008
Edit:
if you have or had a ref ticket and still are not regesterd, go get a smog. when the smog station scans the bar code on your registration it will allow them to smog and not stop then with comunication because of the DMV. Howver Ref tickets are still being issued, some requiring you to see the judge.
Modified by THC07 at 6:22 AM 8/30/2008
08-30-2008, 08:42 AM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NORCAL
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (K i l l a B e e.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K i l l a B e e. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wait so you can't get your car bar'd anymore? </TD></TR></TABLE>
smog exempt FTW.
smog exempt FTW.
08-30-2008, 10:45 AM
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: san diego, ca, usa
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (turbopolluter)
i got reffed a couple of weeks ago....all the judge is going to do is keep giving u exensions until the ref station re-opens atleast thats wat they told me....
08-30-2008, 10:50 AM
#11
* B A N N E D *
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: corona, ca, usa
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (lek9l)
Originally Posted by lek9l
Ever call the BAR ref number at 1-800-622-7733 and get a message saying due to state budget crisis all stations are closed. Since BAR ref stations are closed, whats next, banning all modded motors, pretty much, unless you know a hookup. So now we must return to stock, here is a list of things to do to pass smog. Check all that is listed or expect to fail, any one thing can cause smog to fail. If you fail after all these things listed, try to find a hookup.
Car Must Be Completely Stock or Minimum Modified, California is just plan hard to pass. This means if your car has milled head or bottom end, good luck with timing. And as for the minime and lsvtec, good luck too. ECU must be stock or running stock chipped program, meaning p28 runs a d16z6 engine, and pr4 or p75 runs a b18b engine. Reality is, I don't have a smog machine at my house to test every single program I put in, no one does, so stock is the only alternative. The only way around smog check is to take it and pull the slow motor out, and then swap the fast one in. If they got rid of the refs, how will they give ref tickets? When the smog check comes back, just swap the slow motor back in.
Starting from common to least common problems.
1) Replace O2 SENSOR every time you notice you running rich. (Reduces HC by half)
2) Replace MAP Sensor (Controls idle speed, common failure at smog test, will reduce HC at low speeds)
3) New CAT if you haven't replaced recently, I heard OBD2 CAT work wonders, but its just a myth (Reduces CO2 and HC by half).
4) Replace THERMOSTAT, it goes out very often, stuck or stays open, you can tell when your car idles and its heats up too far towards the middle. Recommended spoon or mugen replace recommended due to better cooling (Reduces NO at low rpm by half)
5) SPARK PLUGS - NGK Iridium, make sure the are gaped at 38 or factory manual specifications. If gap wrong could raise NO (Reduces NO)
6) New OIL and OIL FILTER - I recommend Quaker State Horsepower Full Syntheic or High RPM Synthetic Mixture, 200k miles engines should use 20W-50, 100k mile engines should use 10W-30 (Reduces friction therefore reduces NO)
7) Keep stock VALVE CLEARANCE, IGNITION TIMING (Stock ECU), and CAM TIMING set to stock. If you have a milled head buy a new head, taking a risk with chipped ecu will lead to more trouble than its worth on smog test day (Reduces NO)
8) Replace CAP, ROTOR, and SPARK PLUG WIRES - make sure everything is good (Reduces HC & NO)
9) Use stock PINTO INJECTORS with factory cc, its better to max out the injector than having too much fuel enter the engine, people try to chip an ecu to compensate for the bigger injectors but it doesn't always work (Reduces HC)
10) Fill your TANK with 91 octane, alcohol, racing gas, lower octane makes your car run lean causing NO to go up, O2 sensor should compensate for higher octane mixtures, if you don't want to put high octane because you have old O2, use 87 octane at your own risk. (Reduce HC)
11) Pick to do smog check on COLD DAY (Reduce NO significantly).
12) Find a GOOD SMOG TECH who is certified, make sure they have a fan to blow the fumes away, this will help greatly in all categories, most shady shops have no fans (Reduce anything if he knows what to do)
13) Replace or clean air filter, stock air box is the best to pass with, but aftermarket will need CARB#, the more air that gets in the more smog comes out. (Reduce is variable)
14) Keep stock throttle body, the more air that goes in the more air that has to go out. (Reduce is variable)
15) Make sure SMOG EQUIPMENT is working and present.
16) GOOD LUCK, California is becoming a state where you have to buy new cars every other year to avoid a smog check
You can spend your money on a good tune ecu with any engine, this can help you pass smog, but cost a lot of money.
Modified by lek9l at 11:30 PM 8/29/2008
Car Must Be Completely Stock or Minimum Modified, California is just plan hard to pass. This means if your car has milled head or bottom end, good luck with timing. And as for the minime and lsvtec, good luck too. ECU must be stock or running stock chipped program, meaning p28 runs a d16z6 engine, and pr4 or p75 runs a b18b engine. Reality is, I don't have a smog machine at my house to test every single program I put in, no one does, so stock is the only alternative. The only way around smog check is to take it and pull the slow motor out, and then swap the fast one in. If they got rid of the refs, how will they give ref tickets? When the smog check comes back, just swap the slow motor back in.
Starting from common to least common problems.
1) Replace O2 SENSOR every time you notice you running rich. (Reduces HC by half)
2) Replace MAP Sensor (Controls idle speed, common failure at smog test, will reduce HC at low speeds)
3) New CAT if you haven't replaced recently, I heard OBD2 CAT work wonders, but its just a myth (Reduces CO2 and HC by half).
4) Replace THERMOSTAT, it goes out very often, stuck or stays open, you can tell when your car idles and its heats up too far towards the middle. Recommended spoon or mugen replace recommended due to better cooling (Reduces NO at low rpm by half)
5) SPARK PLUGS - NGK Iridium, make sure the are gaped at 38 or factory manual specifications. If gap wrong could raise NO (Reduces NO)
6) New OIL and OIL FILTER - I recommend Quaker State Horsepower Full Syntheic or High RPM Synthetic Mixture, 200k miles engines should use 20W-50, 100k mile engines should use 10W-30 (Reduces friction therefore reduces NO)
7) Keep stock VALVE CLEARANCE, IGNITION TIMING (Stock ECU), and CAM TIMING set to stock. If you have a milled head buy a new head, taking a risk with chipped ecu will lead to more trouble than its worth on smog test day (Reduces NO)
8) Replace CAP, ROTOR, and SPARK PLUG WIRES - make sure everything is good (Reduces HC & NO)
9) Use stock PINTO INJECTORS with factory cc, its better to max out the injector than having too much fuel enter the engine, people try to chip an ecu to compensate for the bigger injectors but it doesn't always work (Reduces HC)
10) Fill your TANK with 91 octane, alcohol, racing gas, lower octane makes your car run lean causing NO to go up, O2 sensor should compensate for higher octane mixtures, if you don't want to put high octane because you have old O2, use 87 octane at your own risk. (Reduce HC)
11) Pick to do smog check on COLD DAY (Reduce NO significantly).
12) Find a GOOD SMOG TECH who is certified, make sure they have a fan to blow the fumes away, this will help greatly in all categories, most shady shops have no fans (Reduce anything if he knows what to do)
13) Replace or clean air filter, stock air box is the best to pass with, but aftermarket will need CARB#, the more air that gets in the more smog comes out. (Reduce is variable)
14) Keep stock throttle body, the more air that goes in the more air that has to go out. (Reduce is variable)
15) Make sure SMOG EQUIPMENT is working and present.
16) GOOD LUCK, California is becoming a state where you have to buy new cars every other year to avoid a smog check
You can spend your money on a good tune ecu with any engine, this can help you pass smog, but cost a lot of money.
Modified by lek9l at 11:30 PM 8/29/2008
08-31-2008, 10:53 AM
#13
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (cadwiese)
So how dose this work with swaped cars? do we just smog them now? I havent BAR'd yet and it dosent look like its possible anymore....do the smog shops trip over the motor? cant really find a for sure answer...some say yes and some say no.....
info please
info please
09-02-2008, 09:49 AM
#14
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (01_CLtypeS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01_CLtypeS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how dose this work with swaped cars? do we just smog them now? I havent BAR'd yet and it dosent look like its possible anymore....do the smog shops trip over the motor? cant really find a for sure answer...some say yes and some say no.....
info please</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need a straight answer aswell because i am about to buy a swapped ej1
info please</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need a straight answer aswell because i am about to buy a swapped ej1
09-02-2008, 11:22 AM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (Gr1m_ReApeR)
I don't think you're going to get a straight answer. the laws have not changed. You can call the automotive bureau or highway patrol or any ref station and get different information. The only difference is that you can not get a Bar'd sticker and/or Ref'd.
Depending on the smog station you will be able to smog and register your swapped motor. if you have had a ref ticket and its past your court date you should be able to go straight to your Smog station and get a smog to the spec of its current motor.
A gold shield station may give you issues. better yet you should call a gold shield if you want to hear there story. I've heard many and they are not the same, i don't know what to believe. All i know is that the Smog tech CAN smog a car even though it has had a ref ticket and no bar sticker. communication throught the machine to the dmv will allow them.
basically all of you with swapped motors should go get a smog and register your cars.
Depending on the smog station you will be able to smog and register your swapped motor. if you have had a ref ticket and its past your court date you should be able to go straight to your Smog station and get a smog to the spec of its current motor.
A gold shield station may give you issues. better yet you should call a gold shield if you want to hear there story. I've heard many and they are not the same, i don't know what to believe. All i know is that the Smog tech CAN smog a car even though it has had a ref ticket and no bar sticker. communication throught the machine to the dmv will allow them.
basically all of you with swapped motors should go get a smog and register your cars.
09-02-2008, 09:30 PM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: NorCal, U.S
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (cadwiese)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cadwiese »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for more info</TD></TR></TABLE>
09-03-2008, 02:57 AM
#19
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Posts: 9,716
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (Gr1m_ReApeR)
Been passing with smog with a ls-vt for years, Just threw in the dam stock 95 gsr ecu and took the teg in. Passed just like a gsr. I know alot of people that have done the same. The problem is it is easier with a teg because the car came with the dohc vtec motor. If you have lsvt then they just really look at the head. And i know a couple of cats that shaved there gsr vc for their ls car to pass as a ls. Not a gsr. 
09-03-2008, 04:06 AM
#20
Honda-Tech Member
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (wrx-killer-Sti-eater)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Been passing with smog with a ls-vt for years, Just threw in the dam stock 95 gsr ecu and took the teg in. Passed just like a gsr. I know alot of people that have done the same. The problem is it is easier with a teg because the car came with the dohc vtec motor. If you have lsvt then they just really look at the head. And i know a couple of cats that shaved there gsr vc for their ls car to pass as a ls. Not a gsr. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That might be a regular smog guy or even test only guy who dont care what you have. Those are usually called "hook up smogs" Ref will kick you out quick as hell.
From my understanding of the whole situation is that CAP is gone. CAP was the program in which they paid you for your car or paid to fix your car. This was costing the state alot. Ref, Ref tickets, BAR, etc are still around. They are not going to make the top of the list a Test only rank thats like saying highest you could get at McDonalds is a burger flipper.
</TD></TR></TABLE>That might be a regular smog guy or even test only guy who dont care what you have. Those are usually called "hook up smogs" Ref will kick you out quick as hell.
From my understanding of the whole situation is that CAP is gone. CAP was the program in which they paid you for your car or paid to fix your car. This was costing the state alot. Ref, Ref tickets, BAR, etc are still around. They are not going to make the top of the list a Test only rank thats like saying highest you could get at McDonalds is a burger flipper.
09-03-2008, 04:17 PM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Posts: 9,716
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (Luserkid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That might be a regular smog guy or even test only guy who dont care what you have. Those are usually called "hook up smogs" Ref will kick you out quick as hell.
From my understanding of the whole situation is that CAP is gone. CAP was the program in which they paid you for your car or paid to fix your car. This was costing the state alot. Ref, Ref tickets, BAR, etc are still around. They are not going to make the top of the list a Test only rank thats like saying highest you could get at McDonalds is a burger flipper. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I know it won't work with a ref. never said that. And I went to a regualar shop. Not a hook up that i had to pay for. I was at dmv and they hit me with smog. Ran right across the street and bam passed, then I told a couple of my friends and customers that had the same set up and they passed too. And this is at diffrent spots all before this went into effect. lsvt will pass with the same numbers as a gsr. Now if you have a civic thats a diffrent story. I pertty sure they would trip if it had a sohc in there,
That might be a regular smog guy or even test only guy who dont care what you have. Those are usually called "hook up smogs" Ref will kick you out quick as hell.
From my understanding of the whole situation is that CAP is gone. CAP was the program in which they paid you for your car or paid to fix your car. This was costing the state alot. Ref, Ref tickets, BAR, etc are still around. They are not going to make the top of the list a Test only rank thats like saying highest you could get at McDonalds is a burger flipper. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I know it won't work with a ref. never said that. And I went to a regualar shop. Not a hook up that i had to pay for. I was at dmv and they hit me with smog. Ran right across the street and bam passed, then I told a couple of my friends and customers that had the same set up and they passed too. And this is at diffrent spots all before this went into effect. lsvt will pass with the same numbers as a gsr. Now if you have a civic thats a diffrent story. I pertty sure they would trip if it had a sohc in there,
09-03-2008, 05:45 PM
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: California
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (r3vmixman)
Running lean will cause high combustion temperatures, which causes high NOx and HC. With it being about 90+ degrees outside, its better for the engine to run at normal temperatures, I don't really mean cool when its hot outside. Header usually warms up the cat enough for it to work. Not sure what the straight answer about smog. I think the whole bar thing is ridiculous, which state legislators saw too, if the motor passes smog why even bother with extra government costs. I don't think refs will be back soon.
Modified by lek9l at 6:55 PM 9/3/2008
Modified by lek9l at 6:55 PM 9/3/2008
09-03-2008, 09:19 PM
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (wrx-killer-Sti-eater)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I know it won't work with a ref. never said that. And I went to a regualar shop. Not a hook up that i had to pay for. I was at dmv and they hit me with smog. Ran right across the street and bam passed, then I told a couple of my friends and customers that had the same set up and they passed too. And this is at diffrent spots all before this went into effect. lsvt will pass with the same numbers as a gsr. Now if you have a civic thats a diffrent story. I pertty sure they would trip if it had a sohc in there, </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good to know that you are talking about an Integra in a Civic forum where most people have Civics and not Integras. But swap motors. As long as a car is tuned properly (not talking just dyno tuning, but plugs, filters, etc) any car can pass smog. That is a given.
I know it won't work with a ref. never said that. And I went to a regualar shop. Not a hook up that i had to pay for. I was at dmv and they hit me with smog. Ran right across the street and bam passed, then I told a couple of my friends and customers that had the same set up and they passed too. And this is at diffrent spots all before this went into effect. lsvt will pass with the same numbers as a gsr. Now if you have a civic thats a diffrent story. I pertty sure they would trip if it had a sohc in there,
Good to know that you are talking about an Integra in a Civic forum where most people have Civics and not Integras. But swap motors. As long as a car is tuned properly (not talking just dyno tuning, but plugs, filters, etc) any car can pass smog. That is a given.
09-04-2008, 01:01 AM
#24
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Posts: 9,716
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (Luserkid)
I understand this is a civic fourm. But this thread pertains to both cars, kind of like unisex. It seems that california is about to head in a different direction now.
09-04-2008, 03:54 AM
#25
Honda-Tech Member
Re: SMOG REF GONE, TIPS ON PASSING SMOG CHECK NOW (wrx-killer-Sti-eater)
True only reason i brought it all up to begin with is that it seemed like your comments were trying to imply that you could pass an lsvt in any chassis, which obviously you cant (only can if the guy doesnt care about visual). California makes to much money off of smog to throw this away. But at the same time was losing money by trying to fix the cars that were not/couldnt pass. It will be really interesting to see what direction they go with this, but i highly doubt they will stop smog checks/test/ref anytime soon.