The_Honda_Guy

Hey guys, getting ready to replace the clutch on my 94 EX coupe. Just had a few questions. My plans for the car are to keep it relatively stock with no major upgrades and use it as a nice daily driver. Possibly just doing some bolt-ons and cam maybe, no turbo or nitrous. If I did turbo it, I would be building a spare motor up and not building the one in the car, so changing the clutch would be easy while I was putting the new motor in, meaning I'm not limited to only pulling the trans once.

Based on my plans, it seems the Exedy Stage 1 organic full face disc (OEM replacement basically) would be a great choice for me. I know I don't want a puck clutch period since those are mostly track-only clutches and have very harsh engagements - exactly what I don't want in order to not destroy the rest of the drivetrain. So that leaves me with a full-face disc. Also, I know I want organic-faced since copper-faced clutches tend to also have a much harsher engagement and cause accelerated wear on the flywheel. Also, obviously I want a sprung hub since this a daily driver and I don't want to deal with the dash being rattled to ****. I want the clutch to give obviously, and the unsprung hub doesn't do that. Also, I'll probably use the pressure plate that comes with the Exedy kit. I used the exact same kit in my RX-7 with the stock flywheel and loved it. Smooth engagement but you could still launch the car at higher RPM's with no slippage. After reading how many people on here used the Exedy kit and loved it, it's probably what I will go with too.

Now, about the flywheel. On my RX-7 I was advised strongly against it because of the extra strain it puts on the drivetrain. The RX-7 had a heavy flywheel also because the RPM's would drop quickly between shifts. I read on here a lot of people liked using the lightweight flywheels though and I'm wondering if it might be a good choice for myself. The only problem is that a lightweight flywheel may pose a problem in city driving since I'd be shifting much more often. I know that the RPM's will drop quicker with a lightweight flywheel but the car will also rev easier. I drove my friend's 2001 GSR with a ACT Stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel it was a pain in the *** a lot of the time. You would have to rev it up and basically dump the clutch to take off since there was little slip and the RPM's would drop quickly when taking off. Also, I'm not sure if my flywheel had been resurfaced yet and if it had been, chances are I won't be able to resurface it again and will need a new one. If I did get a lightweight flywheel, which weight and brand should I go with? Which one should I get if I wanted a stock replacement?

TrackSpeedRacing

Action Clutch 1KS would be perfect for your setup.

The_Honda_Guy

Bump for other ideas!

The_Honda_Guy

Nobody has anything to say on this? With all the opinionated people around here I figured I'd get some kind of responses.

IP RACING

it sounds like you know what you want. if your keeping this as a daily get Exedy Stage 1 and a lighter flywheel. not like 7 pounds but maybe a 11 pound if I remember thats the right weight. anyways that will give you good bite but not be harsh on your engagements. relatively cheap too

tercel95

All I can give you is my experience. I have an ACT stage 2 clutch and an ACT lightened flywheel. I don't have that many problems with the flywheel, it is a bit touchy though. You just really have to stay in the gas and shift well when accelerating. However, I hate the clutch. I have been in other cars that have clutches that are rated to handle the same power output but are much smoother. My clutch is very stiff, engagement is fine but the thing is downright painful in traffic.

B16AGUY

I have a bully custom clutch. Full kevlar face with ceramic buttons.
It is sprung as well. I paired it with a fidanza aluminum flywheel and it's great. At low RPM's it's almost stock feel and it grabs very nice at high RPM's. The only downside is the flywheel. It's fine in traffic and all that but I did notice that when backing out of parking spaces etc if I don't rev it enough it can and will stall when I push in the pedal to shift to 1st.

The_Honda_Guy

Thanks for the input guys.

My decision now is between the Exedy OEM replacement kit or the Exedy Stage 1 organic face kit. The OEM kit is like 80 dollars whereas the Stage 1 kit is around 200 dollars. The OEM kit is just an OEM replacement with stock clamping force. The Stage 1 kit is supposed to be like stock but with a little stiffer pedal feel and is made for street driving and light track use. Apparently it will hold up to 100 HP above stock levels, so it may even be possible to do a small turbo setup on my D16Z6 with this clutch too since I don't plan on making a ton of power with it. I'm leaning towards the Stage 1 right now since I want something a little more durable but don't want to sacrifice driveability and apparently that's what that clutch is made for.

I've been reading some reviews on flywheels also. Obviously you don't want to go with something too light because it'll be a PITA to drive on the street. The only downsides I've seen so far with lightweight flywheels is that it can transmit more vibrations and cause noises at low RPM's and also that too light of one can cause the car to stall. Upsides are that the throttle response is better and the car revs much smoother. I wish I could find out what weight I would want to go with and what brand. As far as brands go it's either between Fidanza or Exedy. I think I remember reading as far as weight goes you don't want to go below 8 or 9 pounds if it's a daily driver car. Anything to throw in on this?

90_EX_Civic

imop, get the stage one, and get your stock flywheel resurfaced. it's going to be a dd, so don't get a lightened flywheel, unless you can get one between 15-20lbs(think stock is near 30lbs). cause have'n driven a ACT street light flywheel in a prelude, it sucked for dd. so get the stage 1, resurface flywheel. if the flywheel is that bad, a oem flywheel isn't that expensive(like $50)

94EG8

You could try a stock CX/VX flywheel, they're are supposed to be lighter, I think they're something like 13lbs vs 16lbs for a DX, the forum i read it on is down right now or i'd link. part numbers are definately different. CX/VX are the same, DX/LX are the same and EX/Si are the same according to the part numbers, in other words there are 3 different flywheels, the only difference being the weight as far as I can tell.

tercel95

I personally don't have any issues with the act streetlight flywheel...

The_Honda_Guy

Did some more researching on flywheels today.

Here are the weights of each flywheel, taken from websites that sell them:

Exedy lightweight racing flywheel (billet steel) - 10.9 pounds
Fidanza billet steel flywheel - weighs same as stock flywheel
Fidanza aluminum flywheel - 7 pounds
ACT streetlight flywheel (chrome-moly streel) - 11.9 pounds
ACT prolight flywheel (chrome-moly steel)- 8.4 pounds

Now, there are advantages and disadvantages to each. One advantage to the Fidanza flywheels are that the friction surface is replaceable, but this in turn makes the flywheel weaker since they are a two-piece design instead of a one-piece. Another downside to the Fidanza flywheels are that the ring gears are pressed on and secured with dowels instead of being machined into the flywheel like the ACT and Exedy ones. Also, the aluminum Fidanza flywheel is much weaker than the chrome-moly or billet steel flywheels. Essentially the Exedy and ACT clutches are built the same way in that they are a one-piece design, just that the differ in weights.

For me, both of the Fidanza flywheels are out. Obviously I don't want the billet steel one since it weighs the same as the stock one. Also, I don't need a super strong flywheel since the car is a DD and won't see much abuse and won't make much power over stock, not to mention it sucks that it's a three-piece design and runs the risk of seperation. The aluminum flywheel is much too light for DD use, not to mention it's not nearly as sturdy built as the ACT or Exedy flywheels. Also, I don't want to use the ACT Prolite flywheel since it's not that much heavier than the Fidanza, meaning it also wouldn't be very good for DD use.

This brings it down to the Exedy lightweight flywheel and ACT Streetlite flywheel. As far as durability goes the ACT would be slightly stronger since it is heavier. From the pictures both of these flywheels appear to be pretty sturdy and well built. I'm not sure how much difference a pound would make between them so that's a tough call.

Any more ideas?

The_Honda_Guy

Did some more looking around. It appears that the common idea is that you don't want to go lighter than 11-12 pounds for your flywheel on a daily driver car. That idea would keep me at the ACT Streetlite and Exedy lightweight flywheels. I did some reading and found out that the aluminum Fidanza flywheels have a reasonable chance of failing as I found a few reports about them warping or separating. I have yet to read anything bad about the ACT or Exedy flywheel. I'm leaning towards the Exedy flywheel to match my Exedy Stage 1 clutch at this time.

Nextly, what are you guys replacing when you do your clutches? I figured I'd replace the following:

Transmission fluid
Install magnetic transmission drain plug
Rear main seal
Pilot bearing
Throwout bearing
Clutch disc
Clutch plate
Flywheel
Clutch fluid
Swap to stainless steel clutch lines

Also, I remember reading somewhere that it's recommended to replace the flywheel bolts and clutch cover bolts. I myself have never done this and have never heard of anyone doing this. Also, do you guys Loctite the flywheel or clutch cover bolts?

The_Honda_Guy

C'mon, nothing?

bmoua

If your planning to buy the exedy OE replacment clutch...dont! I have one myself and a few other HT members. The clutch works decently but it doesn't grab for *****. The factory clutch was better and smoother. Also this clutch will make your pedal feel, very soft. I have this problem and thought it was only me, but i've talked to other HT members who has this same clutch on there D-series and they have the same problems as well.

lluks_844

I agree for sohc motors the exedy oe replacement is very soft. I installed one in a friends car and hated it instantly. Although for b series they are very good.

69NOSAJ

lsdmotorsports.com ftw

bmoua

As for the b-series OE replacment, i've heard they work okay. I'm not sure about how much more performance you'll be getting than the OEM clutch so dont quote me on it. My buddy's ek with a ITR power went through a stage 1 exedy clutch and didn't like it what so ever. He recommended a ACT street clutch...he said his ACT street clutch was more responsive than his buddies exedy stage 2 clutch.

As for the OP, go with ACT. Make sure to get a lighten flywheel in the process, thats if you really are going to boost your z6.

bmoua

they have great prices...good customer service as well.

speed_demon018

i am using a competition stage one in my 94 ex... they have the same percent of torgue increase as act but are cheaper in price not in quality..

94EG8

Exedy/Daikin is honda's OEM supplier for clutches. In other words the factory clutch that came in your civic was made by Exedy/daikin.

EG MikE

Exedy Stage 1 all the way with stock flywheel... I used this setup for my high compression D series and my type r swap.. Don't waste your money on all that other stuff. This is a DD..

I would replace:

Transmission fluid
Install magnetic transmission drain plug
Rear main seal
Pilot bearing
Throwout bearing
Clutch disc
Clutch plate

and get the Flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop.
- (if possible get another flywheel to get resurfaced before hand because this usually takes a day to do the resurface)



Ive had a lighter flywheel on a D series and did not like it. and this was high compression. I missed the torque from the heavier flywheel so I switched back... you may rev faster but putting it to the ground you are needing a higher rpm... (my def of more torque from a honda)

Search around, I got my stage 1 clutch kit for around $120..

The_Honda_Guy

No, I will not be getting the OEM replacement clutch. I will be going with the Exedy Stage 1 organic clutch. It has a 52% stronger clamp load than the stock clutch and can hold 179 ft. lbs. of torque and 100 HP over the stock clutch, meaning for me around 230 HP. I can't imagine I'm going to increase 80 ft. lbs. of torque and 100 HP with a moderate turbo setup. I don't plan on making that much power or torque because at that point, I'm pushing daily driveability and reliability, both of which I don't want to sacrifice.

I did some reading on the ACT clutches. To get a pressure plate that would be as strong as the Exedy Stage 1 I'd have to get the Xtreme pressure plate. The Sport plate is a 20%-40% increase in clamp pressure, the Heavy Duty plate is a 20%-50% increase in clamp pressure, and the Xtreme pressure plate is a 50%-120% increase in clamp pressure. The Xtreme pressure plate will be way way way too much for a daily driver, and the Heavy Duty plate isn't going to be enough compared to the Exedy. Also, the charts on their website doesn't seem correct either. It states that the Modified disc handles the same torque (223 ft. lbs.) as the Performance disc. That can't be right, especially when the Modified disc is for street and occasional track use and the Performance is for street and track use.

Also, I read that aluminum is a bad choice for a flywheel because of warpage over time, meaning that the Fidanza is definitely out. I don't want to go below 11-12 pounds on weight either since that is the recommended idea. I'll probably go with the Exedy lightweight flywheel since I found the Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit with the Exedy ligthweight flywheel for 460 shipped.

Seminole Civic

How many miles on on the transmission. I have a '96 EX and at 130K the input shaft bearing on the transmission went bad. When bad it sounds like a bad throwout bearing, if you do a search you'll find it's a fairly common issue. You need the transmission removed to replace it, so a clutch replacement might be a good time.

The_Honda_Guy

I never thought about that one. To replace the input shaft bearing doesn't the transmission need to be taken apart?