Didly

iTrader: (1)

Ok about the car
92 si civic turbo.
D16a (d16z6)
Tuned on hondata s200
9 psi stock motor 187hp
Sometimes under load (above 4k Rpms)
The battery light would flicker on and off.

I have checked 3 of the grounds. Transmission, thermostat, and the one for the block. I believe it actually goes from my power steering pump to the core support by the headlight and they "seem" fine.

On my way home from eibach. On my actual exit.
My tach and speedo began to go haywire bouncing around until eventually they completely stopped working.
I made a pit stop. And turned off the car.
When I went to start the car 5 minutes later
It wouldn't start..
I pushed the car and hopped in and popped the clutch.
Started fine..

Let the car idle for awhile at home to charge the battery some.
Next day it started fine..
Ripped on it. And it was fine.
On the way home that night battery light flickered again.
And a lot more then usual.. Flickered any time I even touched the gas pedal.

My first though is to just replace the alternator.
However I have had bad experiences with autozone alts.

Also should I run an "upgraded" alternator? (I think it's like 170 volts or amps compared to stock 120? Excuse me if these numbers are wrong it's been awhile since I looked at the upgraded alt)
Possibly due to the turbo?
Eventually the car will see close to 400hp
But that's when I finish build of my d16z6.

Also please don't tell me to have autozone test my alt.
I have had horrible experience with them testing anything..
I always have them test a brand new part out of the box.
And they have failed every time.
This includes an alternator and an ICM.
**** autozone.
I have been to at least 2 different autozones with the same results.
I am semi convinced that their machines are designed to say that all parts are broken..
To get a sale.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Test it yourself.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

I tested the charging system with a voltmeter
And it was at about 13.84
But I feel like the alternator isn't performing at higher Rpm's
I will search for a way to test it another way.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

Using ohms..
I tested from the alternator wire. To the positive terminal
(With negative disconnected)
And got 1.1 ohms.
I read it should be about 0.5...
Under hood 80a fuse is fine...
Going to find the under dash alt fuse now to check it.
There was a 7.5a fuse under the hood that was done.
I don't have the diagram on my fuse box so ima check that just because.

With headlights on (brights)
And radio on the battery fell to 12.11 while running
Seems fairly normal.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

7.5 was back up lights..
Also had a low beam headlight fuse out
Both of these explain some different issues..
But
I don't know how to test the alternator in high Rpms..
I think I might just replace it anyways
Anyone have any ideas for a cheap quality replacement.

sanegb16

iTrader: (2)

Is the battery tied down if not it may loosen the cables. If not that go to a scrap yard and grab a new ignition switch should be more then 10 at a junkyard

Didly

iTrader: (1)

I'm no guru but I'm 90% certain it isn't the ignition switch

sanegb16

iTrader: (2)

Well its simple to test too and rule it out giving another option not already listed

Didly

iTrader: (1)

So since no one had mentioned anything about an upgraded alternator.

Does anyone know if part #3 in this pic includes brushes?
Or is it only the "brush holder"

turtlegrip

Some people say not to do this, but with the car running you can disconnect the negative from the battery and if the cars dies that is a pretty sure sign the alternator is bad. Find out what fuse was blown. You can upgrade/replace alternator wires and grounds or at least sand them and clean them (battery ground is very important). With engine running, and accessories on, 12 volts seems low. Check the under dash fuses also (#15 maybe?). This is all said assuming alternator is the root of the problem.

I dont know much about forced induction systems effects on the electrical side of the car so that or your ECU may be doing something weird, but I have no information to back that up...

Didly

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, but I already pulled the alternator.
All the fuses were fine.
Including the 80a under hood
And the 15 under dash.
It has to be the alternator.
I might just go to the junk yard and find a decent set of brushes. Or if that #3 includes brushes I may get that.
I'm now not even sure I will benefit from a high output alternator.

TomCat39

For alternator, there isn't a cheap quality alt for Honda. The quality Alternator for the civic is the Denso alternator and it usually runs about 300 bucks. All other brands (other than OEM) I've heard repeatedly are crap.

The cheap fix is the salvage yard so you can get another OEM but cheap. Cost me 35 bucks for a used OEM at a u-pull it type of yard.

turtlegrip

And as for high output unless you are looking to spend $600+ I wouldnt even bother, even then I would be skeptical...

tony_2018

You might be able to find a good deal from advance auto, they do sell denso alternators. Combine that with there coupon code you might find a good deal.

PrettyMuchBoned

Dont buy it from pepboys tho, they've sold me alternators without threads in em that were a pain to fasten. Long enough bolt was sorta hard to find

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Please. I'm running a HO alternator I bought years ago. Off of eBay no less. Just do your research.

turtlegrip

Really? Whats the output? Everywhere I could look up I found bad news. I could really use one to be honest as of now I just bring my battery inside for a trickle charge every couple weeks -_- Sorry to change thread subject

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I think it's about 165 amps or something like that. It's been awhile. Can't remember who the seller was but look for someone with high ratings and lots of positive feedback with warranties.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

So no one just replaces the brushes?
I don't think I'm going to get a HO alternator.
But isn't alterstart a good one? They are like $250 I believe..

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I didn't pay but half that for my HO one. And you're stuck on the brushes. How do you know that's what's causing your issue?

Didly

iTrader: (1)

I don't know that the brushes are the issue. But a blog I read, the guy said he had rebuilt over 100 alternators, and that only one was anything other then brushes..
But the fact that my alternator is still charging,(when it wants to)
Sorta leads me to believe maybe it isn't the brushes.

Maybe I will find a used oem one and just replace the brushes as a precautionary measure.

turtlegrip

Briefly looked around on eBay out of interest. This guy has awesome feed back and way cheaper than what youre looking to pay for 130A. I may try buying one from this guy, maybe this can help you... Search for what he is selling.

http://www.ebay.com/usr/starters-alt...p2047675.l2559

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I think this was the seller.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-2000-HONDA-CIVIC-HIGH-OUTPUT-165-AMPS-ALTERNATOR-/350874831140?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b1c50924&vxp=mtr

Former User

Bad brushes can initially fail only intermittently.

Definitely give it a try.

Didly

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Ron. I was hoping you'd chime in..
So my question is if you look at the pic I posted above.. Does #3 include the brushes?
That's the only place I could find oem brushes (if it is the brushes, and not just the brush "holder")
Other then amazon. And the honda one is about the same price as the amazon one.
Could the battery light?
And loss of power also be due to the bad brushes?
I'll take the alternator apart here in just a bit..