JDM215

ok so when i start my car no matter if its started cold or warm itll fluctuate up to 2100 then drop to 1400 it will do it a couple times then stop, idle at 1100 then after a while drop down to 400 500 rpm and feel like its about to die if i lightly step on the gas rev up and stay at 1100 rpm sit there for a little then drop back down to 400 500 rpm and then struggle to stay on, also the car bogs a little in first gear but not as much as second gear when im makeing a turn it feels like a mean boost lag and the car goes no where and wont clear up unless i slow down enough to put it in first there is no cel or anything my cluster is free of lights


its a stock d16y7, intake and exhaust the car has a cut harness to run a d16y8 intake manifold

also has step down harness to a p06 ecu until i get a stock p2e ecu

JDM215

help me out,


Moderators can you fix my title i dont know how to. lol

Former User

Title fixed.

Any CEL codes? Any vacuum leaks?

What condition are the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Is the ignition timing set to spec?

Is coolant low in the radiator? Have you bled the the cooling system?

JDM215

There are no cels no vacuum leaks i put my hand over the manifold and the car turned off i put new msd wires and pulled a distributor from a working d16y7 put it in and im not sure if its on timing or not it looks the same as my buddies but im not sure how you know

also how do you know if the coolant is low in the radiator im pretty sure it doesnt need to be bled because the swap was done a couple months ago

Former User

Does the CEL work?

Have you inspected the plugs, cap, and rotor?





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Remove the radiator cap when the engine is cool to check the coolant level.

The bleed procedure may take 20-30 minutes:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below

JDM215

alright i will try all that in the morning

EE_Chris

So it's a bone stock D16Y7 that you're trying to run with a P06 ECU? Or you do actually have a Y8 intake manifold on there? If you do have a Y8 IM, are you using the Y7 throttle body?

JDM215

honestly im not sure i bought the car the way it is

JDM215

i have a question can i use the stock y7 throttle body and the stock y7 injectors and fuel rail on my y8 manifold so i dont have to cut any wires?

EE_Chris

A P06 ECU will never control a 3-wire IACV, which is what all D16Y7's use.

volcomexpress

im having the same problem i just bought 96 civic with the y7 motor. i bought new plug, wires, fuel filter, adjusted the timing. i even clean iacv. when i changed the spark plug wire it stop'd doing it and out of now where it cam back it does while im driving tough. when im in low rpm it jerks and when i get on it it feels like it leaning out or something i check the fuel pressure and its fine???? hopefully some one has had this problem for we can get it fixed

JDM215

yea lol figured that out, i tryed a friends p2e and it ran better

JDM215

.....................

JDM215

hopefully some one helps us out

buckner2009

ok i kind have same prob need some legit help ' moderator i hope' not some noob' been doing this long time. have a d16y7 / pg6 pistons i believe like 10:1 comp stock ecu new coil modular y8 intake header full exhaust legit high flow cat o2 are hooked up no codes AT ALL ! new everything cold start map tps engine harness tried ecu;s had 240 y8 injectors in it took them out b,c of this/ car runs mint after 2 grand ish loggy at idle' REALLY RICH ' no codes leaks anything normal ' been switched every sensor all that' has y7 throttle body on it idk if that would do it its my dd need it fixed anyone help me out? so at idle rich as hell full throttle rich as hell timing dead nut dizzy new im stumped 3 days stright fo rtne hours trying to fix it / driving me nuts . so bad idle / sputtery it will idle and cleans out if hold it at like 2 grand but otehr then that stumped'

buckner2009

a 97 ek dx 4door buy the way