mikehinkle

So considering selling my VW and getting a Honda. For many reasons one being price in upkeep.

In the market for something with a b18 probably a b18b and then doing a ls swap with a b18c1 head.

I know, search. Someone is going to say it and I have. Everything I have gathered is right in front of me and it doesn't make me feel comfortable enough to move forward with everything.

So basically I will need:

B18C1 head - Anyone have a website trusted i could order one from?

Conversion kit - Found this one and can add arp head studs for 160.http://www.epictuning.com/store/ls-v...-vtec-kit.html

b18c1 ecu and wiring harness - can order the harness from epictuning. can probably find a ecu at a yard.

does anything have to be programmed within the ecu? i understand its going to throw a code for the knock sensor and that can be taken away by programming.

am i leaving out anything i will need? also would i be better off doing a b16 head if i'm upgrading the stock cams because i've read they respond to cams a lot better then the b18c head?

what kind of power upgrade will i see from just the stock ls swap?

chances are all that will be done aftermarket is - intake manifold, air intake, exhaust headers, cams, rods, throttle body, fuel rail, clutch and maybe clean the bay up cosmetically.

new to honda so don't bash on what i have wrong. thanks in advance guys, debated on which forum to go with and this one seemed the most legit.

jbpnoman

The B18B1 is the LS motor. If you're buying something with a B18B, you don't need to do an LS swap, you just need to do an LS-VTEC, which is swapping a VTEC head onto a non-VTEC block.

Your compression ratio won't be stock, so a stock ECU won't run the motor very well, and you'll risk damaging the motor with a stock ECU. The best thing to do would be to call Phearable or Xenocron, and buy a chipped ECU with a basemap for your LS-V build, as well as an adapter harness. They can also delete the knock sensor for you while they're stamping the basemap.

An intake manifold, intake, and header (singular, only one) are all "look pretty" or "feel good" mods that won't give you any power. If you replace the cams, you'll need a tune, or you'll just be pissing the money you spent on them away. Aftermarket rods are pointless with stock pistons, and generally won't fit - OEM rods and pistons use a pressed on wrist pin, whereas aftermarket use a floating wrist pin with circlips. Throttle body and fuel rail, once again "look pretty" mods - nothing to gain. You don't need to "upgrade" the clutch, although it wouldn't hurt to replace it. Just get something capable of holding the basic barely-over-stock power you'll be making. If you go through with cams, pistons, and rods, then you absolutely MUST get the car tuned, which will start around $500, but varies heavily depending on who's around you and what's available.

Stock LS motor makes 142/128 fresh, so assuming yours will have some mileage on it, expect ~130/110. A LS-V headswap will give you a bump in compression, and might put you in the 150-160/130-135 range. With the right bolt-ons and a good tune, you could make ~200/170.

doctorake

I would look into a stock car then save for a gsr swap if this is going to be your first honda.

mikehinkle

it's going to be my daily driver, all i'm really trying to do is have something reliable that will be fun to play with.

when you say mileage how many miles are you referring to? I've found a few stock b18b motors that have around 120,000 miles. which is considerable low based on the years they were. my friend is a honda mechanic, so i can have all the labor done pretty cheaply, most i can do myself but i don't have all the tools to tear the head apart.

i'm on a budget, so i will only have around 1100 to spend on the swap. and then tax time i can add another 1500 - 2000 into it.

I have considered ordering all the parts and buying a b18b series with high miles for cheap, get a b18c vtec head and have my buddy rebuild the motor. anyone know of a parts list of what all i would need to completely rebuild the motor from the block up? or the parts they typically replace when rebuilding the motor?


so basically if i do the basic ls vtec swap, i'm going to have to need the chipped ecu, b18 vtec head, conversion kit, wiring harness and longer rod studs? is that all?

jbpnoman

You won't need longer rod bolts. You might need new pistons - some head/block combinations have P2V clearance problems. If you click on the FAQ's sticky on the top of the forum, there's a section of it dedicated to LS/B20-VTEC motors, and how to properly do it.

If you're going to rebuild the motor (definitely a smart thing to do) you'll need, at a minimum, all seals and gaskets, piston rings, and bearings. You'll also need to get the crank inspected and spec'd for the new bearings, and have your block honed. You should also have your block and head hot tanked at least, hydrosonically cleaned at best, and upgrade your main and head studs (ARP is the right way to go). If you want to upgrade your rod bolts (not longer, just better) get ARP's for that as well.

mikehinkle

i've always heard longer rod bolts are safer for higher revs?

how much should i end up paying to have the crank inspected and spec'd and have the block and head hot tanked and the block honed?

kyden

they're not longer, as it has nothing to do with strength. they are stronger.

mikehinkle

care to answer this please?

kyden

call up a few machine shops. it can vary greatly by region.

mikehinkle

my buddy recommended the only two he would use around here are carolina crank or pot eats, said they're the best two anywhere close to Charlotte.

Will give them a call and see what services they offer and get some quotes..

i'm assuming getting it hydrosonically cleaned is better than being hot tanked? on average is the price difference much larger?

so basically have my friend pull the motor, take the block and head have the block honed and the head and block hydrosonically cleaned or heat tanked. replace all the gaskets, seals, valves, piston rings, and bearings, have the crank inspected and spec'd for the new bearings, put everything back together using arp main and head studs, and arp rod bolts. put the motor back in and it should run like new?

am i leaving out anything? thanks, you guys have been helpful.

mikehinkle

When i buy the arp main, head, and rod bolts are both the b18b and b18c the same? (assuming they are)

and if i end up doing the b16 vtec head instead is it the same process? and would i get the arp items for the b16 or b18?

kyden

skip the main bolts. if you're doing a vtec head, you need to go with GSR/ITR head studs. rod bolts go with whatever rods you are using.