new_climber

I stopped by a machine shop the other day to ask the guy how much $$$ to press out my bad bearing and press in the new bearing...he wanted $125...needless to say, I am going to shop around...

But something else he said...."the hub might have spun on the bearing...then you will need a new hub also"...

So my question is...can this happen?? I have read all the posts about replacing the wheel bearings...and didn't see anything about this and the hub needing to be replaced. Heck, if I do it myself using the FAQ write up, it just says to cut the inner bearing race off the hub after you pound out the bearing....and it comes apart.....

Any help would be great...

new_climber

Is it safe to say that nobody has had a problem with this?????

cheggie

The inner race will come off stuck to the hub, you would need a bearing splitter and a press to remove the race in one piece. Unless the bearing has been making a lot of noise, it's unlikely the hub will be damaged. When the bearings really sieze and heat up, there is potential for the hub to gall or turn in the bearing.

It's easier and more gentle on the bearings if you use a press to reassemble them. I wouldn't worry about pounding out the old bearing, just try not to beat up the hub and knuckle when you do.

If you do not have a bearing splitter, you need to carefully grind a groove in the old inner race. Then you split it with a cold chisel at the groove. It's tough metal, you need a groove that is deep, near to the hub. Try not to cut into the hub if you can avoid it. The odd nick or two doesn't seem to hurt.

Remember, EX and LX use different hubs and bearings. Also, if any of the lug studs are marginal this is the time to replace them.

Jockone

No it is not safe to say that.Bad bearings can spin on the hub and score the hub or the stub axel but it is not very common.
You could check your local Advance autoparts store to see if they have a Hub tamer in their loner tools,if they do that would make your job easy.

gwl

I used a dremel tool to grind the race. I didn't go all the way through just enough to split with a good quality chisel to split it all the way.

Linked

when my race was stuck to my hub, i put the hub in a vice, took a torch to the race for a couple minutes,
put a chisel and hammer in there and got it sliding off

10 minutes of work tops

new_climber

Thank guys.... The reason I am replacing it is because I have somewhat of a wheel wooble when I just up the front end. I am pretty sure it is nothing else being it takes no pressure at all to move the tire about....so I am hoping my hub is OK...

I think I get it old one out..even the write up on in the FAQ's looks to be pretty easy to follow...getting the new one in is another story. There are a couple shops around me that might do the work...and hopefully the turn around time will be very short.

This is my first bearing on a Honda....so thanks for the information and help

Former User

That shop is charging too much to remove and install the bearings. You could buy a press for that much money.

Str8EJ

Is the knuckle off the car or on?
125 is fair, especially if the new bearing is included in that price.

Former User

I assumed that the price only included labor for pressing the bearings in and out, not the price of removing the knuckle or for any parts, though I could be wrong.

94EG8

I haven't seen a bearing spin on a hub yet, but I have seen a wheel bearing turn in the knuckle effectively ruining the knuckle. $125 if you're just bring in the knuckle and have the old bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in is a lot of money, you really don't even need a press.

new_climber

The $125 is for me to bring in the knuckle only and the new bearing...just the labor to press the old one out...and the new one in. So, yes I agree this is way too much.

I am going to start taking everything apart tomorrow...if I can't get the bearing out...I will have to find someone to do it for me on Tuesday....

Former User

Call around to more shops. I would think you should be able to find one to do the work for half that price, or maybe even less.

new_climber

She is all back together. This was much easier than I thought it was going to be.....the longest part was waiting for the shop to do the work of pressing in the old bearing....they charged me $40 to do the bearing and install a new lower ball joint. While I was there, I replaced my upper control arm also, and hopefully I didn't screw up the upper ball joint. My torque wrench would not snap, and I think I might have gone to much before I backed off. I tried to get it back out, but without taking the entire thing out, I just let it alone.

One other problem was I wanted to replace my steering tie rod end...have a new one on the bench, but could not get the lock nut to break free, or the tie rod end to spin off. There was no problems with it, but I figured since I was there, I would just replace it....but just could not get it off....

I have just over 200,000 miles, would it benefit me to replace the other side also....would it help with my MPG??

Thanks for the help....this was much easier then I thought it was going to be!!