eM1<3

How's it going guy's?

Just a while ago, I swapped out my old b16a2 to a JDM b16a SiR-II Into my 99 si and i'm completely at a loss at why my car keeps dying while i'm driving, or while the car is idleing. It currently has no CEL's, and the ones that it had before I cleared it to see what would come back was a P0500 for the VSS (fixed) and one for my IACV, and Thermostat(fixed). And I also checked to make sure all grounds, and wire connections are securely in place, and free of any debris, or dirt.

Anyways, as i'm driving down the road the car gets very hesitant at times when I press the gas more it jults forward when i give it a little more gas after it hesitates, and jults even more if I try to hold it at a steady pace.

Also, when I'm at idle, and I try to hold my rev's at a certain RPM, the RPM will drop back down to idle, then raise back up to where I was holding it, and repeats until I let go of the gas, or give it more gas. And it only does these things prior to stalling.

After it stalls, I've checked to see if i'm getting spark, fuel, and if my engine is still in time. They all checked out except for my spark. I completely lose it after the car stalls. And my car also will not start after it does so.

Does anyone have any clue what it may be? I am at a complete loss of what it could be. The only thing I can think of that it may be is the rotor//cap inside my distributor... but the prongs had a little amount of corrosion on them and with only a little hint of blackness on the rotor.
Does the distributor position on the motor have anything to do with it also?? And the prongs that go into the engine line up with the cams perfectly.

Thanks again HT, for taking the time to read this guys and any help is greately appreciated!!

Vero

Check the TPS voltage and connections

eM1<3

It's all good. It would throw a CEL for an improper voltage from a TPS, or a TPS not recieving any as far as I remember.

Vero

Yes it will, but only if it's out of normal range. It can still act up.

eM1<3

Alright, sounds good. I'll have to check it out tomorrow morning. Any idea on what could be stalling my car, and keeping it from starting?

Former User

The key clue is lack of spark after a stall. Remove the distributor cap and rotor, and then the coil and ICM. Test the coil (see below) and take the ICM to an auto parts store for testing. My guess is a bad ICM.

eM1<3

Awesome, I was suspecting it was something inside the distributor besides the rotor/cap. I'll take it apart tomorrow have it tested and keep you guys posted!! Thanks for the input RonJ and Vero. I appreciate it as always

eM1<3

Well RonJ,

I tried testing my own ICM, by testing all the wires to it and it all came back good. Except the blue wire going to the ICM had no voltage, and the Yellow/green one had low voltage I believe(of 8v). I just replaced the ICM and it started right up. But to my own demise, after it heated up, it died again. And wouldn't start. (When I tried to start it again, it would sputter like its going too) I noticed upon removing my cap that the rotor blade looked fine, but the rotor had some scratches on the underside from (i'm guessing) the previous owner trying to remove the rotor.

Anyways, when I tested the coil, from terminal A+ to the Winding coil, it all turned out good, but when I tested it from terminal A+ to B- It read low ohms. A whopping .02 ohms. When it requires .6-.9, i believe, correct?

Now I may have had it on the wrong setting on my multimeter, or tested it incorrectly (20k ohms[that's the one with the decimal like this 99.999]) but when I tried it on the lowest setting it had (200 ohms) it read 2.0. So i'm guessing I had it on the right ohm setting. Correct me if i'm wrong.

Now if the wires check out for the ICM, could it be the coil?

Former User

eM1<3

Hmm... I was beginning to think it was the coil too Ron, but I just replaced the coil today. And the car still won't start... I re-checked the wire connections on the inside of the distributor to make sure i put them all in the correct spot, and securely. And they were good.

So far what i've changed is the Module and the Coil... I'm about to go double check the spark plug wires to make sure it's not that.

Do you have any other ideas of what it may be?? Or would you happen to have a list that I can go through to make sure everything is good?

Oh and the distributor is suppose to have the blue wire as far as the book says. I used the same OBDII wire harness that came with the car, rather than the one that came with the engine when I got it. And it all worked out fine.

Former User

With the new ICM and coil, do you still lack spark? If so, check the Yel/Grn wire that runs between the ICM and ECU for a short or lack of continuity. Do you happen to have access to a known good ECU to swap in? If the engine no longer starts, also verify that the timing belt has not snapped. Does the fuel pump prime?

eM1<3

Yeah, I still lack spark And the fuel rail still primes, and the relay still clicks when it's suppose too. Well I checked the yellow/green wire yesterday, and I got 8volts out of it. I didn't check it again after I reinstalled the coil, but i'll have to do it tomorrow

Oh and the timing belt is still intact. It started up late last night, but died a couple minutes after.


And unfortunately I live in the middle of BFE, i'd really have to look around for a ECU like mine to test it. Are the Si ECU's the same as the Ex's?

Former User

Check whether you also have 8V at the ECU connector where the Yel/Grn wire pins. If so, check the wire for a short.

argue566

hey im new here, i was looking for info because i have the same issue described in these previous posts, however my car died on the freeway and there is no spark i began with a full tune up as it needed it anyway and than replaced my hitachi ICM and still no spark i need help trouble-shooting to figure out the issue its been down for a few days need urgent help its causing problems because i work 20 miles from where i live and its not easy getting there on public transportation....Please help!