spnej1

1993 EX Coupe

Ok, I've racked my brain out on this driver's side power window issue.

I have 3 power window switches, all working...so I know these spares came in handy so I didnt have to waste money on a new switch

I just replaced the window motor w/ a brand new one.

Still not working. The driver's switch however rolls the passenger window up and down still.

So, I tested w/ my multimeter.

Yellow/Red - Red/Blue = power
Blue = pulse (auto down)
Blk = Grnd

Ok, I'm receiving no power to the Yellow/Red wire or the Red/Blue at all. Not even when I hit the switch.

Yellow/White = Drver main power for Drivr window

Ok, when I roll the passenger window up, the voltage jumps from 12 to about 16-17V.


The Yellow/White pwr wire will change from 12V to 8V when I click the switch on the power window switch that differentiates between L and R window.

Either way, when I try to roll down the driver's side window by pressing the button, the Voltage on the Yellow/White wire goes from 8V or 12V (depending on the L and R switch mentioned above) all the way down to 0V.

The Yellow/White wire is the power for the driver's side window motor....

It's dropping to 0V when I press the switch to make the window go down or up.

I'm clueless as to why it's doing this...

Any help?


Modified by spnej1 at 1:26 PM 1/23/2008

spnej1

bump

Relic1

pull the driver's power window fuse, scuff the connections in the fuse box and replace the fuse.

even if everything looks good...

monicle

you said you replaced the window motor so im assuming you actually tested it right?

really what youre saying doesnt make sense. the power on the white/yellow has only 2 places to get to ground assuming youre wiring is sound, and thats through the red/yellow or red/blue (or perhaps the blue if youre pushing down enough to activate auto down). I would suggest you switch your multimeter to test continuity and test continuity on the red/yellow and red/blue to the body of the car ith the window motor disconnected. the switch just sitting idle should default both to ground so you should have continuity to ground on both of them, again this is with the window motor disconnected. if either one of them doesnt, then that means you have a wiring problem either with your ground wire or with the wire that fails continuity.

1krebs1

one question when flipping these switches are u popping fuses because it sound to me like you have a short. just curious

spnej1

Already did that. Is there a power window relay?

spnej1

I am not popping fuses at all.

I do have an update, though.

I cut the wires at the fender, replaced them all the way to the grommet, then from the grommet into the door.

Wasted 75$ so far on this. When I cut the wires at the fender, I noticed they were tarnished, not burnt.

The only two things I can think of would be changing the wires from the fender to the fuse box, or if there is a relay, change that.

spnej1

I get no power to the yellow/red or the red/blue.

I jumped the motor and it moved. My old motor was actually fine.

id3379

bump, i like to see a futur mini how to for doing the conversion

monicle

if the relay was the problem neither window would work. did you test continuity yet?

spnej1

"So, I tested w/ my multimeter.

Yellow/Red - Red/Blue = power
Blue = pulse (auto down)
Blk = Grnd

Ok, I'm receiving no power to the Yellow/Red wire or the Red/Blue at all. Not even when I hit the switch.

Yellow/White = Drver main power for Drivr window

Ok, when I roll the passenger window up, the voltage jumps from 12 to about 16-17V.


The Yellow/White pwr wire will change from 12V to 8V when I click the switch on the power window switch that differentiates between L and R window."


I ripped apart a dash at the junkyard today. pull all the relays off.

monicle

again theres only 1 relay for the windows. its closed when the ignition is turned to accessory. If the relay was the problem neither of your windows would work. The fact that your passenger window works means that the relay is fine.

when you are testing for power on the red/yellow and red/blue where are you probing at? the clip that goes into the switch or on the clip that connects to the regulator?
If youre probing the clip that goes into the switch then either the switch is infact messed up or you have bad connections for the red/yellow AND red/blue wires. This is unlikely.
If youre probing at the clip that connects to the regulator, then you have a break in the connections or wiring.

again when you talk about a switch that "differentiates between L and R window" what are you talking about?

if youre talking about the toggle switch at the top that says "on" all that switch does is lock out passenger window control. it doesnt differentiate between anything.

spnej1

I am probing the harness that attaches to the switch and the harness that hooks to the regulator. The regulator doesn't receive power on any of the wires.

You are telling me I have bad connections for the red/y red/b, but the wiring from the door harness in is brand new.

The only thing I can think of is an issue with my fuse box or an issue with the harness that hooks into the fuse box out to the door. I'm trying to figure out which one it is in the back of the fuse box.

Oh and yes, that L/R switch is the one I'm talking about. IT does cut the voltage in the wire from 12V to 8V..cuts the circuit to the passenger side.

monicle

if you were having trouble somewhere at the fuse box then you wouldnt get power on the yellow/white. thats the only fused wire for the drivers side. since youre getting power on that wire then your fuse box is fine

spnej1

What would you advise? The only thing left would be the wiring from the fuse box out to the fender, and being that I cut the wires at the fender, it would be from the inside fender to the fuse box.

I did notice when I cut the wires at the fender grommet, 99% of the wires were tainted black, tarnished, not burnt.

PnX-R

Well here's the thing on those power windows, from what I recall, they kinda suck. The reasoning behind this is that the motor works with three wires and not the usual/normal two wires. This motor has a pulser. And if I remember correctly, I replaced the main switch because of that very reason..

And don't forget, you said you had spare switch lying around. How do you even know they work?..

In cases like this, we always replace the motor and switch combo. But hey, I'm there to test it myself, so relying on what you're saying doesn't make any sense, as far as your meter readings go. I don't rely on them at all when I'm doing electrical, it's either power or ground for me, but that pulser does get in the way...

Good luck.

monicle

umm... again have you actually tested continuity? you just keep saying you check for power but what you want to do is switch your multimeter to continuity looks kinda like this -|>-
put one probe on one end of the wire, and the other probe all the way on the other end of the wire and see if it registeres continuity. if you are actually telling me like it is then you HAVE to have either a bad switch or a break in the wiring (could include the wire clips) again you should be testing the red/yellow and red/blue.

To put it as simply as I can we know you have power to your drivers side switch because you measure power on the white/yellow. from that wire to make the window move it has to go through the switch, through either the red/blue or red/yellow (depending on direction), through the window motor , out over the other red/blue or red/yellow (again depending on direction) back through the switch, and then to ground. you already said you have ground, you already said you know the motor works, you already said you have power, and you SWEAR that the switch is good. all thats left is the ed/blue or red/yellow. A break in either one would make the drivers window not move. But personally I still wouldnt rule out the switch untill youre using one that is known and proven to work in another car.