Power steering tie-rod boot leak
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Power steering tie-rod boot leak
I have a 97 Civic DX (D16Y7) that has a minor leak from the right side tie-rod boot of the steering gearbox. I assume the end seal is bad. How easy or difficult is this leak to repair? Must the entire steering gearbox must be removed to make the repair?
Modified by RonJ@HT at 6:20 PM 3/31/2008
Modified by RonJ@HT at 6:21 PM 3/31/2008
Modified by RonJ@HT at 6:20 PM 3/31/2008
Modified by RonJ@HT at 6:21 PM 3/31/2008
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Power steering tie-rod boot leak (JSPECSIR)
Thanks for the reply.
There is no visible damage to the right dust boot, only some oil dripping from it. I think the oil is leaking from around the air tube connector.
The left dust boot, on the other hand, is clean and oil free.
There is no visible damage to the right dust boot, only some oil dripping from it. I think the oil is leaking from around the air tube connector.
The left dust boot, on the other hand, is clean and oil free.
#6
Re: (redcivic13)
Most likly a leaking seal. Usually from what I have seen it requires a new rack. Maybe there are seal kits available, I don't know, but I doubt those would be any good anyway.
#7
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Most of the time when it's leaking from that inner seal the entire rack needs to be replaced. I haven't seen many manufacturers that make seal kits for their steering racks. More than likely it'll be the same case here.
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#9
Re: (RonJ@HT)
Just noticed this thread - the boot itself is replaceable, I've done it on my parent's 92 Civic. The boot kit is about $20 at Napa, comes with the boot & 2 wire ties to secure it. I filled it w/CV boot grease.
To do this, remove the wheel, then undo the castle nut at the end of the tie rod. Then you must break loose the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Mark the tie rod end's location, then undo the lock nut & unscrew it. Another method is count the number of twists to unscrew it, you want to reinstall exactly the same or alignment will be off. You can now access the steering boot. Undo the clips holding it, remove/replace. Installation is reverse of these steps, be sure to screw the tie rod end in to the same
The hard part is removing the tie rod end from the steering knuckle (I had to use a fork, which broke the tie rod end boot). So that necessitated a new tie rod end as well for me. If you're lucky, you can break it free without the fork. I've heard of the hammer technique, striking the knuckle sharply from the side with a hammer, which causes the assembly to come apart. I've only had luck with this trick on the balljoint.
Good luck.
To do this, remove the wheel, then undo the castle nut at the end of the tie rod. Then you must break loose the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Mark the tie rod end's location, then undo the lock nut & unscrew it. Another method is count the number of twists to unscrew it, you want to reinstall exactly the same or alignment will be off. You can now access the steering boot. Undo the clips holding it, remove/replace. Installation is reverse of these steps, be sure to screw the tie rod end in to the same
The hard part is removing the tie rod end from the steering knuckle (I had to use a fork, which broke the tie rod end boot). So that necessitated a new tie rod end as well for me. If you're lucky, you can break it free without the fork. I've heard of the hammer technique, striking the knuckle sharply from the side with a hammer, which causes the assembly to come apart. I've only had luck with this trick on the balljoint.
Good luck.
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