BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

So here we go again....

installed b18c1 obd2 into my 93 CX -
Just BOUGHT a obd1 p72ecu - plug n plug - Wired vtec/vtec sensor

1. As i was told earlier. The canadian CX model map sensor on the wall - i need to take that plug and plug it into my map sensor on the throttle body. IS this right?

2. I re-pin a20 to a17 - plug vtec to a4, vtec pressure to d6 - IS THAT EVERYTHING?

3.Went to start my car this morning and battery was dead - charged it for 10 min - no more ticking, but car wouldn't turn over. Popped my spark plugs off and OIL is in there - Could this be a reason why it wont CATCH? ( buying new seals/plugs in the morning )

4. How the hell do i wire up a knocksensor - ( i know to pin D3 ) and what color is this single wire? - i cant find where it leads to the shock tower to splice it. ( covered in loooom )

5. My car jolts when i shift...( I got it going once ) Would this be a bad TPS?.


Im just about ready to drive it off a cliff - but i cant cuz its not driveable.

hope someone can help...

NVturbo

1. If the Map sensor wires (plug) do not reach, extend the wires to reach the sensor on the GSR. Don't forget about the vacuum line.

2. You DO NOT REPIN any existing wiring especially the A20/A17. A20 is RED from the Evap Purge Solenoid and A17 is Pink/Blue from the Secondary Intake Solenoid.

3. Remove the old spark plugs, clean out the plug cylinder and hole with shop towels. Oh yeah, replace the seals.

4. As for the Knock Sensor, you have to add in a new wire from the driverside plug (Red/Blue wire) to D3 at the ECU.

5. The jolting can be different things. Did you make sure to re-install the "gator" pin back into the shift linkage. A screw and bolt WILL not suffice.

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

1. The cx map sensor does reach and does plug in to the mapsensor on the throttle body
2. I'll put the pin back in a20 but there was no pin going into a17 it was empty
3. I'll clean and by new seals
4. Is it the top plug or bottom plug on the drivershock tower? Is that with all the yellow/ black wires?
5. I left the shiftlinkage in when we pulled out the motor . Had to put a bolt and nut in where my shift attaches to the linkage tho - lost the pin for that....

NVturbo

1. Correct
2. You have to run an extended (Pink/blue) wire to the A17 slot
3. Correct
4. There are only two plugs on the driverside. The dead-end plug with yellow/black (injectors)wires is not it. The other one is where you will find the appropriate wire (red/blue).
5. Replace it with that "gator" pin. You can purchase that pin through Honda/Acura OR re-use one from a SOHC tranny. They are all the same.

*** if you are using the OBD-II engine harness, you will end up with an extra plug that doesn't have a corresponding connector on the passenger side. That plug is for the crank sensor which you DO NOT NEED since you are using an OBD-I ECU. Only OBD-II ecus will read that.

94EG8

Not exactly true. Because we don't have any emissions testing over here in NB we usually just move A20 to A17 and then plug the evap purge plug into the IAB solenoid (basically saves running a new wire by letting you re-purpose existing wiring. Btw if you used an OBD1 GS-R harness Repin A20 to A17 as above, but keep the IAB plug, plugged into the IABs (GS-R harnesses are pinned slightly different at the shock tower plugs) OBD2 GS-R harnesses are a little different again.

NVturbo

^^^ That's how we wired up my friend's '93 Civic coupe with OBD-II (B18C1) motor and harness.....OBD-I P72 ecu. NO CELs whatsoever. I guess some things have more than one way to do it.

94EG8

That's the best/easiest way to do it. OBD2 GS-R harnesses are little weird though (actually all of them are, but OBD2 is a little more special) OBD1 and OBD2 IABs opperate differently. OBD1 has constant 12v power and switched ground (which is exactly how the evap purge solenoid works), OBD2 has switched 12v power and a constant ground. And i'm not quite sure how it's pinned out at the shock tower plugs. With both OBD1 and OBD2 GS-R harnesses honda ran the IAB wiring where the evap purge wiring ran on other models, GS-Rs had a seperate shock tower plug just for the evap purge solenoid.

This is often the case, sometimes there is a better method, sometimes they're the same, sometimes it depends on the parts available.

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

1.Im running a obd1 p72 ecu now - using the obd2 gsr harness.
2.Where is this pink/blue wire you speak of>? I was told to re-pin A20 to A17, i re-pinned A20 to A17 but there wasnt any pin in A17, it was a empty slot. So if i follow this A20 to A17 wire that i switched, do i need to follow it into the shock tower and change that around to?
3.With the plug on the driver side i "splice" a wire from the red/blue wire to D3
4.I'll by a gator pin for that to, must be why my car jolts when i shift.

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

and for wiring Vtec and Vtec pressure switch - i have this picture to go by, wondering if this is right



Just wire from the tower to A4 (vtec) and d6(vtec pressure) or how can i run it from directly to the pressure and vtec?



which would be easier to do.. if possible.

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

Anyone for my last answer?

94EG8

that top pic is right, normally that's how I wire them, usually i'll pull the cabin harness side wires from any '92 Civic since they all came prewired for vtec from the ECU to the shock tower plugs, but if you're not that fussy just make sure you get the ECU pins with a few inches of wire and do the same for the shock tower plugs, run wire between them.

NVturbo

I'm not sure if the '93 CX's are wired for VTEC from Honda.

94EG8

They aren't. But you can manually run the wires from the shock tower to the ECU plugs yourself. I prefer this as it gives you a factory look.

NVturbo

I agree with the factory look. That's what I did on my '94 Civic hatch for a JDM B16 swap.

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

ight so tomorrow is going to be +2 outside ( yay ) so i'm hammering down on this in the early morning. Going to try to hook up all these wires, hope all goes well and wish me luck.

I need to clean off my spark plug wires since i have some oil on them. Cars not starting so i'm thinking i'm not getting spark due to that problem. Batteries fully charged.

I'll keep you guys up to date on what happens tomorrow night. Hope to get this thing moved after a month 1/2

rhymeshark916

Bump for the Op. I'm in the same situation. I have an Obd1 b18c1 engine & harness on 92 vx body, did this https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/complete-obd1-b18c1-into-civic-vx-wiring-instructions-644434/, and still throwing code 23{ks}. Also, how would I run IAB? I'm going with the beloved factory look and running everything stock, no cutting corners, to pass smog/bar referee.

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

Alrighty, so spliced a wire on the gsr harness that was a "red/blue" wire only one on the plug to D3 of my ecu, Not sure if its the right one, im hoping it is. Its the only one on the gsr harness (driver side) on the plug.

Checked my codes, only running
code 20 - 20 Electrical load detector and
code 21 - 21 VTEC spool solenoid valve

which i don't know wtf either are. Now if anyone can help me with these two codes id appreciate it. and or if i'm missing anything. These codes are new - i pulled the fuse out of my panel for the ecu 2 times and same two codes kept appearing.

94EG8

Code 21 is vtec related (usually it's a wiring issue or the solenoid is gunked up with old oil. the other one can be a major pita to sort out sometime.

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

lol a major pita doesn't sound fun lol.
I'll have to check the solenoid then. See what kind of fun stuff i find inside.

rhymeshark916

So your KS is straighten out? Not throwing a code anymore? Man, I'm still throwing the code on mines. Do I need to try a another KS?

rhymeshark916

[QUOTE=BlackCivicEX;44593161]Alrighty, so spliced a wire on the gsr harness that was a "red/blue" wire only one on the plug to D3 of my ecu, Not sure if its the right one, im hoping it is. Its the only one on the gsr harness (driver side) on the plug.QUOTE]


D3 wire color is blue/yellow correct? You also spliced it on the ecu?

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

The weird thing was With the obd2 p72 ecu that i first had installed ( when i just installed the motor and wasn't running ) never had the knock sensor CEL come up.

When i had the obd2 p72 ecu installed i had new codes throwing everyday. Even after restarting my ecu. sometimes they went away sometimes then left.

And same thing goes with this new obd1 p72 ecu, is that im only throwing 2 codes which being code 20 - Electronic load detecter and 21 - VTEC spool solenoid valve . I put it in a week ago, and still restarting my ecu a couple times same codes.

I found a red/blue wire on the driver side harness ( only plug thats not yellow/black out of the 3 ) and i spliced a wire from that to D3 on the obd1 p72 ecu. I;m still not sure if it works. I hope it does lol. Only wire on the plug. I didn't have any wires going into D3 when i installed it. It was empty.

My car is yet to start, Maybe i just have no gas lol. ( guess i gotta find a jerry can somewhere ) But when i get on that i'll deff let you know.

NVturbo

Why would you use an OBDII ecu if your car will not be inspected (California)?

As for the knock sensor, if you tapped into the red/blue (driver's side plug) and run it to the D3 slot, you should NOT have a KS CEL.

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

I used the obd2 ecu because it was all i had at the time. I had the whole gsr parts car and took it out and used it in my civic. Thought it would be easier until i started having CELs out the ***. So just did more research and found a obd1 p72 ecu would be best. and also couldn't find a chipped p28

I never had a ks CEL to begin with on ither obd1 and obd2 ecu. Slot was still empty on D3.

rhymeshark916

Well mines a VX and there's a blu/ylw wire already there. All I did was did the trick I posted a link up above post.