crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

ok, frustration has gotten to me and this is the last resort to post up for help.

I've been here long enough to do a search before asking for anything. Ive already done everything I have through searches and im stuck.

i have a 1992 civic cx with the z6 and im experiencing overheating problem.

Before I start with the z6, I had the stock cx motor. It had overheating problems but Ive eliminated everything that possibly could have cause. Replaced temp sensor, water pump, radiator cap, thermostat, headgasket, and the blown fuse for radiator fan. It was still overheating and thick white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. ONLY THING I didnt change is the radiator. Ive flushed out the radiator, cleaned any gunk on outside.

Did the z6 swap and replaced every single gasket on the block and head. Reused radiator cap, temp sensor, thermostat because they were pretty new. I had to buy a new waterpump because the cx motor didnt fit. headgasket was also replaced. fired it up let car idle for a good 40+ mins. I also drove the car around to check for noise and such. Temp was steady, idle was good. Ive driven around like this for a good 3-4 weeks already and have not experienced any problems or overheating. started 3 days ago, i noticed the temp gauge went up and drop back down. the fan turns on. i pulled over and looked at the overflow bottle, it was filled to the top and bubbling. the coolant is green with no sign of oil in it, checked the oil dip stick and no bubbles.

Ive done many headgasket replacement and never have gotten any problems. Ive torqued down the head to spec. So I can almost gaurentee that its not the headgasket. If its a faulty thermostat, wouldnt it overheat within the first few weeks after I did the swap? Fan turns on, so I know its not the fan, waterpump is not leaking and again, if its a faulty pump wouldnt it not work within those weeks? I dont know what else to do next but besides replacing the radiator. I want to make sure that is the last resort before purchasing one. Because if its not the radiator, I need to fix whatever is causing it to overheat. Thank you in advance.

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

uppp

fmrprojects

maybe you have a warped head and it needs to be resurfaced. if your car overheats at a stop but goes down when you drive, then its the headgasket

gezzuzz

is it a complete d16z6 or a mini me?

RCautoworks

Test the radiator cap out, if its not working properly and its stuck open, its causing less pressure to be in the system. Less pressure lowers the boiling point causing bubbles in the over flow.

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you have a warped head and it needs to be resurfaced. if your car overheats at a stop but goes down when you drive, then its the headgasket</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont think its a warped head, but i will look into that. the thing is, when im driving temp will go up, when i stop for a while, it goes down and stays steady. it'll still show that its running hot, but not as hot as im driving.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gezzuzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it a complete d16z6 or a mini me?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its a complete z6.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Test the radiator cap out, if its not working properly and its stuck open, its causing less pressure to be in the system. Less pressure lowers the boiling point causing bubbles in the over flow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do i test the radiator cap? when i checked the cap, i thought it was broken because it looked kinda different. but i bought a new one and it looks exactly the same. the spring part just doesnt seem very springy compared to the new one.

I also turned on the heater and it blows out quite HOT. like if i was to leave my hand there, I can feel that its way hotter than normal. Temp didnt drop as the heat was on full blast.

gezzuzz

the faultly cap is a really good idea..

if the system does not pressurize they system will boil..

check for leaks.. or cracks on top the radiator..

a quick crash course in coolent systems...

when you system is at 180 degrees its not boiling because its under pressure.. 15psi

open the system the pressure drop and water boils at 100 degrees so the water in teh system instantly boils!!.. if the cap is stuck open or is open at less then 15 psi you will over heat cuz you will get gas in your system..

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

I did check that thats why I went to buy another cap. I was comparing it side by side and it looks pretty identical as in everything is in tach and nothing is missing. I guess I can put on the new cap I just bought to see if anything happens.

I have already ordered a new radiator so hopefully that'll take away the problem.

But just in case if thats not it, what else could cause this?

RCautoworks

Normally you need a tester, to pressurize the cap. Best bet is to go to Honda and buy a new cap, get that out of the way and then go from there.

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

ok, ill probably do that. Thanks for all the help guys.

RCautoworks

good luck and report back.

highrev1987

i had the same problem with my z6, when you put the trans back on did you torque the bolt to spec or did you blast it on with the impact?

I you blasted it, and no other thing works, take all of the trans bolts off one by one, and watch for coolant. it happened to me and i had to scrap the bottom end.

gezzuzz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highrev1987 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem with my z6, when you put the trans back on did you torque the bolt to spec or did you blast it on with the impact?

I you blasted it, and no other thing works, take all of the trans bolts off one by one, and watch for coolant. it happened to me and i had to scrap the bottom end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

now i could imagine that is possible even tho there a 1 in a million chance that may happen... yet i will never in my life shoot them bolt in with a impact agian!!!
thats a horror story!!

highrev1987

yeah not fun, good thing i didnt mill the head before i found out

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

hmm..im trying to think how that could happen. why would blasting the tranny bolts make coolant leak out... what happens if the tranny bolts arent torque down to spec? i usually just tighten em as tight as i can. i hardly torque them to spec.

highrev1987

Blasting them with an impact will cause the aluminum to crack, this results in loss of coolant pressure in the water jacket. Also does it overheat rarely, perhaps only after you beat on it?

rogue420

I had the same thing happen - the white smoke. I replaced everything that i could except for the radiator. That ended up being the problem. Check the radiator for bent fins and such. Especially the bottom half. It's not as visable as the top half and that's what lead me to believe that my issue wasn't the radiator. Took the old one out and I was like "how the hell did i not see this?". Needless to say the bottom half of the radiator was toast. I'm suprised that it wasn't leaking. My a/c condenser is the same way, the a/c works, but it could be waaaaaayy better if the bottom half of the condenser wasn't chowed.

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highrev1987 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem with my z6, when you put the trans back on did you torque the bolt to spec or did you blast it on with the impact?

I you blasted it, and no other thing works, take all of the trans bolts off one by one, and watch for coolant. it happened to me and i had to scrap the bottom end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you use the right bolts, the bolts are only so long, even if you use an impact the bolt will not go in any future, it will just strip the threads.

highrev1987

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you use the right bolts, the bolts are only so long, even if you use an impact the bolt will not go in any future, it will just strip the threads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true but i used the right length and it still happened.

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

update: Replaced radiator cap, waiting for radiator to get shipped. Still overheats. I can drive for a good 30 mins without the temp needle jumping up and down.

The way the temp needle goes up, it bounces up and down, kinda quick like as fast as when you rev. its not a gradual rise. would that help out a little more with detail on to pinpointing what causes it to do that?

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

bump

RCautoworks

Your water pump going not be flowing any fluid. Look for any leaks near the water pump

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

i did, its pretty dry. because i dont have the top timing cover so i can see inside of it. im actually looking for a timing cover if anyone have one. getting nervous driving with that part open.

allricedout

just some advice....take the thremostat out. if that fixes the problem then it is something to do with that and the sensor.

crashtest Sonny

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allricedout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just some advice....take the thremostat out. if that fixes the problem then it is something to do with that and the sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive been wondering about that for a while if it could be a faulty thermostat. i guess i can try that.


UPDATE: replaced the radiator. still overheats. i let it run at idle for about 30 mins and i notice the gauge going up, then the fan turns on, temp drops. gauge goes up again, fan turns on, gauge drops. then next time fan turns on, the gauge goes up and stays there. then any longer, the temp keeps rising even when the fan turns on. this time the overflow bottle doesnt bubble.