Chef Andre

iTrader: (1)

Okay I purchased some used spindles. One of the bearings was making alot of noise but it didn't matter cause I was going to replace them. Anyway got the new bearings pressed in and it sounds even worse then before. Check out the vid below. What the hell is wrong here? The other spindle was done the exact same way and makes no noise at all.

JasonGhostz

I can't be 100% sure what's happening in your case, but here's one thing I noticed about what was happening to a rear Hub/Bearing Assembly I once worked on (having the same double inner race design)...

The scratching noise seemed to be louder after initially placing the brand-new H/B Assy onto the Spindle shaft. I hadn't tightened the Spindle Nut, nor even put the washer over the shaft, and after doing so (to less than the req'd 134 ft-lbs), the noise was almost non-existent.

There's usually a little bit of play between the "inner" and "outter" (relative to the car's centerline) inner races. For the front, check to see that the inner race closest to the vehicle's centerline is as close to flush with the rest of the bearing, and that the bearing's seals aren't skewed. The end of the Hub usually stops just at the end of the inner race's curved pilot seat, but not a lot sooner.

If these are for the front, there might be a chance that the Bearing's innermost inner race was pushed out a little bit when the Hub was pressed in. This is often the result of pressing the Hub downward into the Knuckle/Bearing without something preventing movement of the inner races, or pressing the Knuckle/Bearing down onto the Hub without pressing directly onto the Inner Races. If this happens, then depending on the severity, you may be able to tap it back in. Unfortunately, I don't think tightening the Spindle Nut will help you here like it might for the rear.

I'm not sure which Bearings go with 5-lug hubs, but for the 99-00 EX/SI, there is a metal seal on one side and a black rubber-encased metal seal on the other. The Helm manual says to press in the bearing with the metal seal toward the centerline. I'm not sure if any 5-lug bearings were designed similarly.

At worst, all is not lost, as you can always press out the Hub and replace the Bearing. I try to make sure that the inner races of the bearing are adequately supported when pressing the hub back in.

Whatever you do, don't trash that ***'y... 5 extended lugs per corner... M-M-M-M-M!

Keep us up to date and GL!
JasonGhostz

Chef Andre

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tips man. These bearings are the same as all other Honda bearings. I'm not sure which was I pressed in the bearings. I took pics so I'll look at that tonight. Thing is though if I pressed them in the wrong way both side would make the noise and not just one.

I think what I'm going to do is install then and tighten down the axle nut to see if that pushes the race back in if that's the case. Someone also told me they need a little time to break in as well. I guess we'll find out.

Any other suggestions?

JasonGhostz

I'm sorry, I couldn't tell if that's the front or rear. It's a little dark on the bottom, and tough to see if that's a Spindle or a Knuckle. In either case, it doesn't look like the Splash Guards have been bolted/screwed on yet, which makes me think you can simply pull the H/B ***'y off and slide it back on to do so. Meh... I'll stop being an idiot...

Is that a vid of the Front or Rear? (what are they from?)

In either case, if these are Bearings that get pressed in with a Hydraulic Press or Driving tool (C-Frame Press), then definitely check to make sure the Inner Races haven't gotten skewed.

But if these are the Hub/Bearing Assemblies where the grooves for the ball bearings are built (lathed?) into the hub, and the Inner Race simply "slides" onto the Spindle shaft (like for 92-00 Civic models), then I think you'll be ok.

One other thing that I also experienced regarding the rears (H/B ***'y type) was that this sound was MUCH more pronounced when the Splindle shaft is pointed upward. Pointing the Spindle shaft outward, as if it were on the car, greatly reduced any sounds of friction or feelings of "notchiness". If the sound is still worrisome, or if the movement isn't smooth, then I'm at a loss for any suggestions or explanations.

While the rear Spindle and H/B ***'y requires that little bit of play between the inner races and the shaft, there shouldn't be enough to allow either of the inner races to rotate while the hub spins. I believe this is why they use the washer, nut, and a 134 ft-lb torque requirement to make sure those inner races stay put during hub rotation.

Unfortunately, sometimes there's no real way to know how things will run until we really run them. If these are new Bearings / Hub/Bearing Assemblies, then I say just make sure the Races haven't popped out, tighten up 'dem nuts, and go for it...

With caution.

(reference for those unfamiliar)
00 Civic SI Front Bearing (#2):
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/z...e&x=1107&y=552

00 Civic SI Rear Hub/Bearing Assembly (#2)
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/z...e&x=1107&y=553


Let us know what happens, for sure! GL and Have A Great Drive!
JasonGhostz

murdered sol

I'm going through the same **** with my 'ol lady's EM1.. We pressed the bearing in (with a hydraulic press), put it together, drove it and it still hummed but not as loud. When we brought it back home the right front hub (where we replaced the bearing) was HOT.

So we took it apart, pressed the hub out and everything looked good. And JasonGhostz was right, when we pressed the hub back in it pushed the inner race out of the back side so we flipped it around and pressed it back in...

BUT after all this we put it back together just to get the same humming, it doesn't get as hot as it did before but it still gets hotter then all the other corners. And I know they say that sometimes you can't tell exactly where its coming from I'm pretty damn sure because of how hot that one hub gets........ I'm stumped

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Could be a bad hub, could be that you pressed the hub too far into the bearing, or it could be a bad bearing even though it's new.

murdered sol

hhhhhmmmmm.... I considered the latter, but never even thought of the former. I didn't think you could press the hub in too far. I figured that since it was made to be pressed it, it could take a lot of pressure. And I've never heard of a hub going bad, is that fairly common?

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Hubs go bad all the time, why do you think they sell new ones? You can tell the hub is bad when the surface isn't even or if there's a groove along the middle where the two bearing races meet. Sometimes the whole hub will be smaller in diameter than it's supposed to be and the bearing will slide on with very little effort from the press. I change bad hubs out all the time on Accords and TLs. Civic hubs generally see less stress than heavier cars, but if you're running large diameter wheels that are out of balance or you've got an alignment issue (negative camber) or drive for a long time with bad bearings, the hub will go bad.

Over pressing hubs into bearings is also common from people who don't press in very many hubs. If you feel a slight dragging when you go to spin the hub, you know you've pressed it in too far. Sometimes it'll correct itself while driving but the majority of the times it won't and it'll cause damage to the hub or the bearing.

murdered sol

okay I guess I'll watch for that when we tear it apart again. Didn't seem like the hub was dragging, it seems like is spinning pretty freely. But I'll be sure to inspect the hub. What are the chances of me getting the inner race of the new bearing off of the hub without ruining it?

BTW I appreciate the info

Chef Andre

iTrader: (1)

I haven't even installed mines yet but it'sood to have a little more info. Never knew a hub could go bad either. I haven't driven on it yet so I was just going to do so, drive it around a little and see what the outcome is.

Thanks everybody for the input. This is definately a new one on me.

JasonGhostz

Here's a pic of a bad Front Hub (90-93 Integra)...
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6411/si851828.jpg


You can see a slight "downstep" from the left hand side. The Bearing's outtermost Inner Race (furthest from the car's centerline) was stuck in position relative to the Bearing and Knuckle. Every time the Wheel would spin, it would wear against the Hub and score a groove in it.

... to the scrap heap this one goes... unless someone wants to make an offer!

Hang in there, guys, and keep us in the loop. There are few instances where things can't be corrected.

Best to y'all! Have A Great Drive!
JasonGhostz

Shooktd

Sorry for resurrecting this thread but could a hub cause my car to shake violently on acceleration? Ive been having a few issues with my front left hub and bearing. ive replaced two bearings to get rid of this shake also two different hubs. Both were used. But my new ly pressed wheel bearing didnt do the trick. Im starting to think its my hub now after reading these posts. Any idea?

Carmeng6000

I too have excessive noise in the Left front wheel of my 09 Accord EX-L V6 4 door. The Left Front wheel noise stops when appling the brake. This Baffles me. I've replaced eveything that can be replaced and more. Knuckle, 2 Bearings, Hub, Axle, Upper & Lower Ball Joints, Rotors Tires, & Brake Pads. Dealer says they all do it. Anybody know what can be done about this agrivating sound?
carmeng6000

sde780

If it's only shaking on acceleration it sounds like your axle to me.

angrysmileyface

This actually sounds like a good explanation of how a bearing I replaced a year ago could make noise a day after it was installed. I guess I am off to determine which one is fubar'd