Tchay

Hey there, before taking it to a mechanic, I figured I would consult the internet. Please and thank you, for the help!

I have a no start scenario from my 1993 Civic DX hatchback (automatic). My starter cranks loud and clear. No CEL codes.

What I've checked/done so far:
- I have half tank of gas in car
- Checked ALL fuses for continuity (they are fine)
- it has spark from all 4 plugs
- coil in distributor works
- fuel pump is new, and works (makes noise)
- Main relay clicks (I assume it works)
- CEL pops on then off like normal
- replaced the starter
- replaced the battery

2 weeks ago, I was getting a code 8
Prior to this problem I got an intermittent code 8 TDC sensor. Replacing distributor a while back fixed this code, but then the code 8 came back intermittently. I feel like something is causing TDC sensor to misalign. The CEL would pop on and the car would shake. Restarting engine would fix the problem temporarily.

New distributor was hard to put in
To replace the TDC sensor, you need a new distributor assembly for 93 DX hatchbacks. When putting in the new Distributor, it was crooked on the camshaft key until I tightened the three bolts. This is not normal. The distributors are normally not crooked when being put in. Keep in mind, the little camshaft key on the distributor WAS lined up correctly, and not 180% off.

Any ideas? Could a fuel line be clogged somewhere? Could my camshaft be misaligned? Thanks in advance for the help!

B_Swapped93

so it cranks...it must if you have spark, if it cranks confirm fuel is getting into the cylinders. check your grounds. you're contradicting yourself by saying it clicks but not saying if it actually cranks and then presuming it has park and is actually getting fuel.

can't suggest much till you say if it's ACTUALLY cranking/spinning the engine.

Tchay

I said the main relay clicks (as in it makes a click sound when the CEL goes off when the key is in position two). The relay and the engine are two totally different things...

So, relay clicks, engine cranks, and the camshaft rotates(I looked inside the engine for movement). My grounds appear to be fine. I checked for spark from all four spark plugs with a long screwdriver, so I know the engine is getting a spark. I know the fuel pump makes a noise.

I haven't checked for fuel getting to the cylinders, however. I'm not sure how to check that.

B_Swapped93

you worded it strange my bad, yah I'm well aware they are 2 different things, nice try tho . as for confirming fuel pull the plugs after a few cranks and sniff them should be wet or smell of fuel. 2nd as I said before check mechanical timing.


explain this long screw driver method you used ? new to me I hope to god you didn't jamb a big screw driver up the plug wire

Tchay

Lol I did indeed jam a big screw driver in the plug wire. I've heard people say it will ruin components doing that kind of spark check, but then I've had other honda mechanics tell me to just do it. So I did. But nothing seems to have blown out since that spark check.

Which fuel plugs should I be pulling out to sniff? The one from the filter? As for timing, what should I check? I see movement in the engine internals, but not sure if something is still stuck or not.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Spark plugs.





eH.

B_Swapped93

The park plug it's self just check all of them as you go, check that the block is at TDC for that remove the #1 spark plug and drop a 3/8th drive extension down the tube turn the engine over by hand, you'll see it go up and down at it's highest point is where TDC is. Now for the head to be at TDC remove the upper timing belt cover if you all ready haven't and look for the 2 marks on the side of the gear make sure they sit levelwhen the block is at TDC.

dake7

Pull out your air filter....
have someone sit in the car and crank it over.....
Shoot some Starting Fluid up the intake pipe toward the throttle body....

If car starts then you need to look for a fuel problem....
If car still won't start, then you have ignition problems....

HTH

Tchay

Okay, what if the block is at TDC but 2 marks are off? What will that mean?

TomCat39

You can also do a quick test of your fuel injectors (assuming not a carb engine) by measuring the resistance of them. They all should be around 12-15 ohm resistance. If any one of them is severely different than the others, then it's a bad injector (rare).

Also, if you haven't done a compression test and the compression is too low, no matter how much fuel and spark you have, it won't start. You have to have compression to have it start. anything above 150 PSI will do but 150 PSI with wide open throttle is pretty much on the bottom end of running. Stock brand new I've been told on the D15B7 motor is 185 PSI.

The more complicated but complete test of fuel injectors require a NOID tester.

Good luck.

B_Swapped93

Then your mechanical timing I off, then simply undo the tensioner and put a 12 or 14mm(I can't remember) socket on the cam gear and adjust it. make sure you take all the spark plugs out tho or the compression will be too much to fight and you'll snap or round the bolt head.

Tchay

Thanks everyone. I will look into what you have suggested this weekend and post the results. Thanks again.

TomCat39

I thought the cam gear had a key?

If you are off a tooth, I thought you had to loosen the tensioner enough to slide the belt off, adjust the gear the tooth (or two) you are off, then put the belt back on with everything TDC, then reset the tensioner?

Not sure how far off you can be before you bend valves.... Your problems may not be over yet with her.

Good luck.

B_Swapped93

the "key" is to hold it in place on the cam shaft and has no relation to turning it to make adjustments, the only times I've seen bent valve are when it snaps when driving.

TomCat39

Good to know, thanks again.

Tchay

I looked at a couple more things, and the timing belt was fine (and tight), but the alignment appeared to be off. I decided to take it to a mechanic (yes, I caved) and they determined that the engine did not have compression for some reason (on two of the cylinders, they still have to check the other two). I'm not sure which cylinders they checked. I will find out on Monday.

I didn't get a chance to smell the spark plugs or check for fuel, but the mechanics said that getting compression was the first priority.

What do you guys think about that? Will I have to buy a new engine? Or is there still hope for it? The car has 200K miles, but the engine has around 80K miles (previous owner told me the engine had around 70K about a year ago, and I have owned the car for a year now).

Thoughts?

TomCat39

No compression is either an engine swap or a rebuild.

So you prolly had spark and fuel but no compression means no run period.

B_Swapped93

Um....no compression is either mechanical timing being way the **** off but then it should be in all cyl's unless those 2 cyl's were lower then the rest. Or burnt/warped valves in which case just spend 60$ and pick up some new valves !.

TomCat39

I was thinking cracked rings, but bad valves fits the bill and is way cheaper to fix.