tumbleking

I got a set of rear trailing arms from an si but they are bent, is it possible to take the hub assembly off of the si trailing arms and replace my drum hub assembly? I've never heard of anyone doing it this way, I have compared the dx, and si, trailing arms and the bolt holes are the exact same from the looks of it.

NiK

so your trying to get rear disk's in the back but use the dx control arms?

tumbleking

I am trying to use the Dx trailing arms and just switch the hubs. The Calipers from the Si's attact using a plate but other than that all the rest looks the same. Lower and Upper Control arms on the dx and si trailing arms look identical. I compared them when I got the stuff with both dx and si trailing arms side by side.

NiK

i don't know to much about the rears, but i know the fronts from dx is pretty big differance compared to ex/si/integra the rear might work if you have a extened plate for the caliper? i have no idea maybe somone will know on here.. bump for you

951BRO

strip them both down and take pics

JasonGhostz

If only the Trailing Arm is bent, you can do the swap from the Spindle outward.
JasonGhostz

tumbleking

meaning the hub assembly? the assembly that the rotors connect to... it looks like it has a 22 mm nut on the back of it and it has 4 star bolts that connect on the back.

schardbody

ONLY if the dx was ABS equipped, which i doubt, otherwise the knuckle is differant.

92+ abs = all the same

88+ non abs = all the same

in referance to the actual hub atleast

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tumbleking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">meaning the hub assembly? the assembly that the rotors connect to... it looks like it has a 22 mm nut on the back of it and it has 4 star bolts that connect on the back. </TD></TR></TABLE>*For the Rear*: The hub slides on/off the Spindle.. The Spindle is the keymost component (IMHO) for the OEM swap...

The 4 bolts in the back are T50 Torx Heads. They actually have the same Thread Pitch as your other Suspension Bolts, but you'll need to match grade and length to do so (the T50 Bolts are fully threaded)... i.e. don't strip dem Torx Bolts (although you will have 16 to choose from (8 donor, 8 project))...

The Nyloc Nut must come off as well. Nobody has *THE* Torque Specs for it, but I measured mine as I took them (the Nyloc Nut and Torx Bolts) off, and got readings from the Wrench as I put them back into their original alignment...

******************* RHS *******************
rearmost bolt: ~60 to break, ~55 to set
bottommost bolt: ~65 to break, ~60 to set
topmost bolt: ~50 to break, ~60 to set
forwardmost bolt: ~60 to break, ~60 to set

Spindle Inner Shaft Nyloc Nut:
~115 to break, ~100 to set

******************* LHS *******************
rearmost bolt: ~60 to break, ~42 to set
bottommost bolt: ~60 to break, ~50 to set
topmost bolt: ~60 to break, ~38 to set
forwardmost bolt: ~60 to break, ~37 to set

Spindle Inner Shaft Nyloc Nut:
~140 to break, ~80 to set

The set from which this data was taken was VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY rusted... One of the first threads I started dealt with this...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1349450

To avoid liability, I'll leave it up to you to decide how much to tighten them... Hope this helped!
JasonGhostz

schardbody

jasonghostz, the point of my post was to say that the dx HUB wont fit the si spindle, unless it had ABS.

regardless, im not sure if it even matters, but i dont think this swap is possible without disc brake spindles. unless the spindles have the same mounting points then the spindles could be swapped from the bent trailing arm to the non-bent arm.

SentraB14

There really is no point in doing that imo. How often are you going to have to have your drums serviced?

schardbody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SentraB14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There really is no point in doing that imo. How often are you going to have to have your drums serviced?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, no point, all high performance cars use drum brakes right????

all honda enthusiast think they have a performance car, therefore, thats the reason for mods like this.

tumbleking

all the bolt holes are EXACTLY the same on the si and dx trailing arms. If you look on any parts catalogue they look identical

SpeedoKing

if it works let me know b/c there was a si that was messed up bad at a body shop by me and if i can salvage the discs then im good but the trailing arms are all messed up so thats a no go.

tumbleking

I guess just keep lookin on here ... as I get it figured out... I will let everyone know... maybe a cheaper way of doing it?

tumbleking

JasonGhostz

Now just remove this part from the SI:


And take the similar part off of your DX

EDIT: WTF Car do you have (YMMDTO)??? LOL!!!
EDIT:
EDIT: Don't forget to take measurements of the Drum Brake Spindle & Hub/Bearing Assemblies! There's a set of H/BAs at a local shop, but I couldn't make it tonight. Maybe Sunday...
JasonGhostz


Modified by JasonGhostz at 8:44 PM 6/28/2007

mikebpem1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonGhostz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If only the Trailing Arm is bent, you can do the swap from the Spindle outward.
JasonGhostz</TD></TR></TABLE>

is that safe?

tumbleking

YOU DA MAN! that's what I was wondering if I could do! That rocks! and I will just use the bolts from the si trailing arms and transfer them to the dx? If this works I will be happy as ****!


Next question... brake lines... one of the brakelines in the back as has a PINHOLE from rust... and I add in about 2 caps a week to keep it level I need to change out all the lines when I get a chance... is this pretty difficult?

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tumbleking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... and I will just use the Bolts from the SI Trailing Arms and transfer them to the DX?</TD></TR></TABLE>Use whichever Bolts & Nuts are in better condition. PLEASE prep your Bolts so that they don't strip (PB Blaster, etc... &/or 3-in-1 (FTW )). If you're on a crazy time schedule, you might just have to go for it, but just be careful...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tumbleking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Next question... brake lines... one of the brakelines in the back as has a PINHOLE from rust... and I add in about 2 caps a week to keep it level I need to change out all the lines when I get a chance... is this pretty difficult? </TD></TR></TABLE>I'm assuming you're talking about your currently driven car, right? Front or Rear? If the problem Hose is in the Rear, then consider how long it will be before you do your Disc swap, and how much you want to "risk it" while you wait.

Brake Hoses aren't grossly expensive, and it might be worth it to spend the extra $$$ in case you have to slam on your Brakes.

GL!
JasonGhostz

tumbleking

a) what is pb blaster? My plan was to just wd-40 and throw some lock tite on them...
b) what is lock tite?

c) I am going to be replacing the proportion(ing?) valve to the si so I guess when I do that all I would have to do is disconnect it from the rear brake assembly once I figure out which side has the hole ( or just replace both rear since i am sure rust will eventually win the battle). That should be all that is really needed to fix it right?

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tumbleking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a) what is pb blaster? My plan was to just wd-40 and throw some lock tite on them...
b) what is lock tite?
c) I am going to be replacing the proportion(ing?) valve to the si so I guess when I do that all I would have to do is disconnect it from the rear brake assembly once I figure out which side has the hole ( or just replace both rear since i am sure rust will eventually win the battle). That should be all that is really needed to fix it right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
A - PB Blaster: http://www.pbblaster.com/store..._ID=1 WD40 won't do ****...

B - Loctite: http://www.loctiteproducts.com...ID=48

C - YOU STILL HAVEN'T TOLD US WHAT YOU DRIVE!!! Give us all you can (Year, Make, Model, Doors, Trim, Tranny, Options). In ANY CASE, many people who do a Disc Swap don't swap out their PVs. It all depends on the Project Car and the Donor Car, and what other parts you're swapping.
The PV is found in the Engine Bay, near your Fuel Filter. it looks like a Crab with your Brakes' Hard Lines coming from it (should be 6 lines for Non-ABS)... If you do some digging, you'll read the multitude of testimony for both sides... Basic rule of thumb is that the less ("unnecessary stuff") you swap, the less trouble you'll encounter. You'll have to find out for yourself what that means for your project.
Whether you swap your PV or not, you should definitely take care of the hole in your Brake Hose.

Hope that helped!
JasonGhostz

tumbleking

I drive 99 civic ek hatch DX everything stock until tomorrow... I am doing the si door conversion, I got a HUGE dent in one door and I got the doors with the rear trailing arms... but that's for another topic...

thanks for the help!

Bejita

Cool...I wonder if I can apply the same principles to my Sol??

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tumbleking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drive 99 civic ek hatch DX everything stock until tomorrow...</TD></TR></TABLE>Your 99 DX Hatch has the same PV as the SI already...
46210-S04-902