zaxfire69

Hello guys. I just recieved my engine today from Tiger Japanese motors. Look I ordered a D15b Non-Vtec engine for my 1996 Honda Civic. Just wanted to put the same motor in it so I could get good gas mileage and stop smoking because my rings were shot. When the engine arrived the block has the designation of ZC..Not D15b. I have included pictures. Someone who knows something about this please respond to me. I am ready to put this engine in. THank you..







P.S. I have a couple of sensor's that are broke. The map sensor on top of this manifold is broke and one of my Fuel injectors are broken..I thought this would be just a simple swap to do..I am searching does anyone have a link to where I can see one of these go in an EK??


Modified by zaxfire69 at 7:16 PM 5/16/2008


Modified by zaxfire69 at 1:26 PM 5/18/2008

geebs

whats wrong with it? its a sohc non vtec engine.. swap the sensors from your current engine and put it in your car.

i think you need a crank sensor.. i dont see it in the pics.. you might have to swap the oil pump from your current engine.. or get a new one and swap the sensor and bracket onto it.

zaxfire69

So my map sensor that is broken can be taken off of my other engine...This different manifold is throwing me off I guess. Plus I have been out of the Honda swap game for 5 yrs so be gentle with me. I am full of questions so if you will help me get this done I will be greatful...The Fuel injectors and the distributer are they interchangable as well>>>???? On the fuel injectors one of the black covers that hold the plug to the injector is broken.WELL DUH>>>I WILL BE USING MY CURRENT HARNESS SO YES I JUST ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION>> Also the distributer looks different on my current engine. Can I take this one off and put my current one on? Any info is helpful..Keep in mind the whole time you guys read this I am searching the internet trying to get the ***** to get out there by myself and swap it. I can do it, just been out of the game for awhile..Married now with kids..Dig what I am saying....


Modified by zaxfire69 at 8:27 PM 5/16/2008

donvito#1

looks like u got a zc block with a y7 head and a y8 manifold hmmmmmm

deevin9

I have a ZC SOHC non-vtec (it looks a bit different but wtv) and its pretty much a straight swap, didnt have to change anything other than the actual motor. if its a ZC tho, its a 1.6, not that it really makes a difference

usdm stock d15b7 is supposed to be 105hp or something like that, because of a more aggressive cam and possibly higher compression the zc is rated around 120hp woot

l Sivic l

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donvito#1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like u got a zc block with a y7 head and a y8 manifold hmmmmmm</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

bobjohnson

I bought the same engine from them. Its definately not a ZC block with a different head and manifold, unless they make them like that over in japan. When i went to the shop, they had maybe 15-20 of them all lined up on the floor.

I asked on the EF Board and someone told me that if its a SOHC ZC and the spark plugs are on the exhaust side, its vtec. You dont need to run it as a vtec engine (im not, at the moment anyway since im still OBD0), and its a direct swap from your current engine. It will drop right into the bay and all your parts will bolt up (Intake, exhaust manifold, dizzy, etc).

geebs

just because the spark plugs are on the exhaust side doesnt make it a vtec engine. it needs to have the vtec solenoid, which doesnt seem to be present.
all 96 and up civics came with 1.6 L engines.. d15b7 was pre-96, atleast in the us.

zaxfire69

No it is a non Vtec engine. I was expecting the block to be stamped D15b or d16 , but when it arrived it had a zc stamp on the block. After searching there are a few places that say the Zc = d16y7 in japan. The thing that threw me off was the different manifold. What I will do is all the parts that are broken or aren't there i will swap from my current engine. The only reason I bought this engine was because my Y7 that came stock in my engine started to smoke bad. Instead of rebuilding the stocker it was cheaper to buy this one. Hopefully when I install it and start it up it won't smoke. I am happy that I did get this manifold with the motor..The way I am looking at it is if I wanted to build a SOHC engine this is a good one to start with. Right now all I want to do is install and not smoke. I just wanted to know if this engine has more power than my stocker being that it is a Zc NON Vtec. We shall see in a few days I guess. I am going to drop the old engine out and take the dizzy off of that engine and the wiring harness hook everything up and see what happens. If anyone has more to add please do. I am putting the engine on the engine stand today and getting started so.

bobjohnson

Heres what i was told in this thread that i made https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2283002 :

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the engine is stamped ZC, it is not the engine in that picture - all ZC engines are 1.6L - if you have a non-VTEC SOHC ZC, then it is basically the same as the 88-91 CRX/Civic Si/EX D16A6 and uses all of the same parts - non-VTEC engine has the spark plugs on the intake side of the head - if it is a VTEC SOHC ZC, then it is basically the same as the 92-95 Civic EX D16Z6 and uses all of the same parts - VTEC engine has the spark plugs on the exhaust side of the head</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think tiger japanese is mislabeling that engine as a d15 non vtec engine, as the only "ZC" that was 1.5 liters wasnt sold in japan. Ill double check to see if mine has the vtec solenoid but im pretty sure it does. As a side note, someones written "VTEC" and "ZC" on my valve cover with one of those chalk pencils, the same as the OP's valve cover (except his doesnt say vtec).

Im ready to admit i might be wrong, as its really hard to find solid information about ZC engines, atleast the SOHC's and anything that newer than 91. But from what ive seen its basically the exact same engine as a D16Z6, which was a SOHC vtec engine.

got00rice

as far as im concern when the spark plug is on the exhaust side then its a vtec motor and if the spark plug is on the intake manifold then its a non-vtec motor. unless im wrong.

pdiggitydogg

^youre wrong.
I cant stand it when people say that too. Hell, look at the d16y7...

big-cat

it is a d16zc in japan or the d16y7 the only thing that is really changed is the y8 manifold wich is a plus imo. good luck.

hmm I wonder what tranny they had on those in japan, that would be tight if they had the y8 tranny to.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

OP: Call the company you ordered from and have them ship you replacement sensors. Any reputable company will do this.

If they jerk you around, just swap over your MAP sensor from your Y7. If it will not work, go on ebay or to a junkyard and purchase a different MAP sensor from a civic or integra from 92-00 that has the same style sensor.


Hopefully, your swap was automatic in it's previous life. Otherwise you will have to rewire the IAC and get a different ECu or get a D16Y8 automatic manifold and swap over your IAC.

The Y7 has a 3 wire IAC. The automatic Y8 has a 3 wire IAC. If that engine has a 2 wire IAC, follow what I said above.

Your wiring harness comes completely out of the car. Not sure if you realized that. But it may be a helpful tip. Take out the battery and tray. There are 2 10mm bolts holding in a rubber grommet. Undo those. Unplug all ECU connectors and dash harness green connector. Pull the harness out.

You will have to mod your harness. Some of the manifold sensors are different from your manifold to that manifold. So either rewire or use your sensors depending on the sensor. Some sensors will swap over...some wont. The IAT will need to be rewired. The IAT on the engine you have should go into the intake tube itself. The IAT on the Y7 goes into the manifold. They are different connectors. Replug your harness and use the IAT from the swap.

You will have ot also lengthen the wires for the injectors and other manifold wiring since the Y7 manifold has a weird design.

Or avoid all of that and just use your Y7 manifold, sensors and everything else. The Y8 manifold does flow better, however.

I didn't see a misfire sensor on that engine. But it should be there. If it's not, you will have to swap your oil pump and the sensor over from your y7.

It's a very simple swap. You will figure out what works and what doesn't work as you go along. Then feel free to ask specific questions. If you have a good understanding of nuts, bolts and wiring...you can do a Honda swap. A monkey can do a D series swap.

Good luck.

zaxfire69

Thank you B Serious. I have a good understanding. I will follow your advice and pull the harness out with my old motor. I will post pictures as I go along and If I have questions. I thank you seriously b serious. Sounds to me if I run into any problems you will be the man I ask. I do want to keep the y8 style manifold. Less cluter.. Thank you and I look forward to posting some pictures as I go along. First thing first the motor has to come out of my car. I start on that in the morning.

zaxfire69

Here are the pictures of the sensors on the Y8 style manifold...
Broken map sensor


Other 2 sensors one on top is broken, they both have 3 prongs

obuhmyuh

ive heard nothing but bad things about tiger japanese motors, from the sounds of it i'll probably never buy anything from them, ever.

zaxfire69

Misfire Sensor??? Where is that at? As far as Tiger Japanese being bad..I will know when I crank the engine for the first time. If it doesnt smoke or knock they are good in my book.. I see sensors from Jdm swap broken all the time or at least read abou them broken...I can't complain the engine made it here in less than a week.

All my sensors on the Y8 Style manifold are the same on my y7..So the 2 broken one's shouldn't matter. As long as I can get them off the y7 without breaking them. Hey guys does this JDM engine have a little more power than my y7 currently? Different manifold and all? Block designation does say zc on it as well.


Modified by zaxfire69 at 1:01 PM 5/17/2008

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The misfire sensor is on your Y7. Look on your Y7 near the crank pulley. There should be a wire coming from the pulley area. It is present on all OBD2 hondas. So for your OBD2 ECU to not have a CEL, you will need the misfire sensor.

I think I remember there being a wiring mod for that to cheat the ECU..but I'm not sure. Try searching for misfire sensor or "CKF sensor".

The sensor basically senses crank fluctuations via magnets. It tells the ECU if the engine is misfiring based on that data. Combined with the TDC and other sensors, it can also tell the ECU which cylinder is misfiring.

To swap it over, you will need to swap your oil pump from your Y7.

That is if it's not there on the JDM engine. Not sure why it shouldn't be there.

About the condition of the engine: I've seen that most of the time, D series engines come in kinda rough shape. Sensors broken/missing, etc. However, more care should have been taken. The condition of the engines seems to also depend on shipping companies or the importer themselves. I've seen only squeaky clean stuff come from H-motorsonline. In other words....the sensors should not have been broken. The engine should have been handled more carefully..and if the sensors were broken upon delivery to tiger japanese, they should have properly inspected it and fixed the issue before shipping to the end user.

Tell them you want new sensors. That could be a way of documenting an issue if something else were to go wrong down the line. Lets say down the line, you find out that your manifold has a hairline crack in it from the engine being dropped...and thats why the sensor was also broken. Telling them about the problem and making them fix it right away is a way to document that there was an issue when you recieved the engine.

So whether you have sensors to replace them or not.....contact them and make sure they know whats up. They NEED to take care of it (depending on their fine print on their disclaimer).

Also, almost every importer has a "no smoke and 100% start up" type warranty.

geebs

there is a crank position sensor mod. where you tap into the distributor CYP wire i believe.. google ff squad technet.. they have a write up on it..

heres a link.. i got bored.. http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm

zaxfire69

There isn't a wire coming from around the crank pulley area. So I am assuming that the JDM engine doesn't have that sensor on it. So should I just do this wiring trick and keep my fingers crossed? Or should I purchase a new oil pump and take the sensor off of my y7?? I have no clue how much a new oil pump costs.

I removed the old oil out of the JDM motor and it didn't have any metal shavings or water in it so I am happy. Still has a Honda Factory filter on it. I think instead of removing the oil pump off of the y7 I will try this Mod. Hopefully it will work for me. Cause removing both oil pumps and swaping them out is a pain and time is of the essence when you have 3 boys trying to help daddy work on his engine.


Modified by zaxfire69 at 5:50 PM 5/17/2008

geebs

if you want to do it the right way, buy a new oil pump for a d16y7 or y8.. and swap the sensor and bracket from your old engine... if you just want to get it in and running, do the wire trick.. to swap the oil pump, you have to remove the timing belt covers, timing belt, crank pully, oil pan.. you should replace the timing belt and water pump anyways.. i think most engine importers require this for their warranty.. atleast you got 3 boys.. i got 2 girls who love to help me.. atleast they'll know more then their boyfriends.. if i let them have any.. heh

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by geebs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is a crank position sensor mod. where you tap into the distributor CYP wire i believe.. google ff squad technet.. they have a write up on it..

heres a link.. i got bored.. http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm talking about the CKF, not CYP. The CYP is in the distributor. The CKF is on the crank pulley.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zaxfire69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There isn't a wire coming from around the crank pulley area. So I am assuming that the JDM engine doesn't have that sensor on it. So should I just do this wiring trick and keep my fingers crossed? Or should I purchase a new oil pump and take the sensor off of my y7?? I have no clue how much a new oil pump costs.

I removed the old oil out of the JDM motor and it didn't have any metal shavings or water in it so I am happy. Still has a Honda Factory filter on it. I think instead of removing the oil pump off of the y7 I will try this Mod. Hopefully it will work for me. Cause removing both oil pumps and swaping them out is a pain and time is of the essence when you have 3 boys trying to help daddy work on his engine.


Modified by zaxfire69 at 5:50 PM 5/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

The new oil pump is around $400ish if you can find it in the right place. About the same cost as an engine. F that. Honestly, you can find D series swaps on honda tech or other forums for around $200-500 all the time. My friend got a Y8 for $225.

My D series philosophy is like this: If the maintainence or replacement part costs as much or more than an entire engine...I'd rather just blow mine up and buy a different working one in most cases.

Just use the oil pump from your Y7. It works, right? Buy a haynes manual...make sure the oil pump doesn't have excessive play in it, etc etc. Then swap it in.

Does your state have emissions? If not, you can just buy an OBD1 conversion harness and an OBD1 non VTEC ECU (should be dirty cheap) and forget all about the CKF. You'd have to use OBD1 injectors as well, however (can also be found dirty cheap). Go to a junkyard. Find a 92-95 civic/del sol (any model but CX or VX), take the injectors and take the injector connectors. Then you dont have to swap over any oil pumps or anything. This only works if your state or locality does not have emissions testing.

zaxfire69

That mod is for the CKF sensor. It is called the CKF bypass trick. That is what I am gonna try. Yes I still have the old pump. This mod should do the trick though.

mizzoEG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deevin9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a ZC SOHC non-vtec (it looks a bit different but wtv) and its pretty much a straight swap, didnt have to change anything other than the actual motor. if its a ZC tho, its a 1.6, not that it really makes a difference

usdm stock d15b7 is supposed to be 105hp or something like that, because of a more aggressive cam and possibly higher compression the zc is rated around 120hp woot</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, not trying to steal thread, but quoted above deevin9 mentions that the ZC (non-VTEC i'm assuming) produces 120hp as a result of higher compression and a more aggressve cam-shaft over the D15B7. is this true???

and if this is true, is the ZC cam-shaft interchangeable into a D15B7? thanks.