str8up720

I seem to be having an issue with my oil level being low after about 3-4 weeks after changing it and filling it to the proper level. It is always a quart below everytime i check it. There seems to be no sign of leaks anywhere. The funny thing is that my coolant reservoir seems to have traces of oil in it as well, as if my coolant is being mixed with oil. I have recently changed the coolant after a hose blew out on me as well. Other items that i have replaced include, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, distributor seal. No signs of leaking around cam seal or oil pressure switch. Any ideas were my oil is going? BTW the car is a d16y7 99 civic with 350,xxx miles.

Former User

The oil in the coolant is generally a sign of a blown head gasket.

str8up720

I thought it may be a possibility, and now that i think of it, it may explain my coolant being low at times as well. wouldn't a blown gasket affect my emmissions though? I smog the car here in cali every 2 years, and has passed with no problems

Former User

Coolant loss combined with oil in the coolant are pretty strong evidence of a blown head gasket.

TomCat39

You can confirm if you have a blown head gasket with a block tester test.

If the blue liquid turns yellow......

str8up720

I will try it out tomorrow and confirm..

str8up720

Block tested this morning, didn't turn yellow....I still suspect the head gasket..

98ekb18c

The liquid not changing color just means that none of your cylinders are leaking into a coolant passage. I'd still say headgasket. Possibly cracked block or head, but most likely headgasket.

str8up720

last thing i need is a crack in the block/head...will have to remove one of these days and inspect. Any recommendation on gaskets? im thinking i cant go wrong with oem/stealership.. what about head bolts...i have read around they are torque-to-yield and some say they are not. Any opinion?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Can't go wrong with OEM gaskets. For head bolts, just replace them - better safe than sorry, and they aren't expensive enough to risk having to completely re-do the job over. Also, compare the price between OEM head bolts and ARP head studs, and go with which ever you can get cheaper.