tony_2018

Dude I was gonna ask you what fuel line you used from the filter to the rail and took a closer look at the and notice you flip the line backwards. good ****. man I did the same. HAHAHA.

DCRB

i wonder if it would be possible to run this motor obd1 on a chipped ecu, using the iab function for the wild cam vtec, setting the actual vtec cross over for the 12-16v mode, and also boost it using say a 14b just for some added top end grunt? and maintain lean burn?

tony_2018

It is possible to do that, someone on pgfmi, or whatever the site is called, has a basemap doing what you just describe. Its also tweaked a bit too, thats what the OP says.

danrs

iTrader: (1)

I got a great deal on this motor from JDMenginecorps in RichardsonTX ! $800 for the motor and the PJ2 003 manual ecu.The motor is an auto OBD2b that came with all the sensors ,ESOL EGR control Solonoid , ac compressor,steering pump ect.I will be converting the motor to Obd2a to match my car and PJ2 003 ecu with a 96 HX wiring harness. I have pics of the correct vacuum on the mani cause my hoses were all hooked up.I converted my auto mani to manual by tapping in a two wire aicv.Just gotta block off the three wire one next with a plate.Here are some pics so far.

[IMG][/IMG]
The hose from the EGR Solonoid goes the EGR.The hose on the mani goes to the canister.The other hose from the canister goes to the throttle body.The D15z7 3 stage uses a three nippple sensor less charcoal canister like on an eg.




Don't drill all the way though on the right side hole.Only the left hole.I measured the holes with another mani on my B16 and used a allen key to gauge the depth.
About this deep on the right side hole.Also you still have to drill one more hole so air can go from the throttle body channel to the right hole I tapped for the IACV.Sorry, I forgot a pic. Remove the TB and see on the gasket were to drill at an angle leading to the IACV hole that doesn't go all the way threw.

danrs

iTrader: (1)

Can someone give me a correct part number for the TPS of this motor stock ? Mine has the part number rubbed off and it's broken.I guess any d series will work.I also took pics of every sensor with the factory wire colors if anyone needs any info.Thanks,Dan

94EG8

Honda only sells the complete throttlebody. That said All OBD1/OBD2 D/B/H/F-Series TPS sensors are the same. On USDM models you'll have to cut some grooves in the headless screws and use a flat screwdriver to remove them. JDM models have regular torx screws.

danrs

iTrader: (1)

Thanks 94eg8.Yes, I have done that before with a dremmel.The only other thing I'm wondering about now is the single wire o2 sensor.The HX harness has two white wires on the harness.What is the Ecu pinout for a single wire O2? I think it's A6 but I'm not 100% sure.Or do I wire to the white wire that goes to the Junction connector that turns BLK/YEL? The Haynes manuals kinda wierd.

danrs

iTrader: (1)

Never mind the o2 goes to D7.

The ESOR EGR Solenoid control valve - Red wire goes to A7 pin-out on obd2a p2p 003.Other wire is ground.

Obd2b P2j goes to pin B7 red wire.

Here's the vacuum and Solenoids on a D15z7 3 stage and the HX D16y5 in the Polish service manual. The solenoid on the right is for 3 stage.The Polish words say "EGR control solenoid valve except engines D16y5,D16y8,D16Z7."

The solenoid on the Left is for HX.It Says "Fuel vapor control solenoid D16y5".

The 3 nipple Charcoal Canister is for the 3 stage.An EG canister would work great.No sensor and 3 nipples just like the 3 stage has stock.[IMG][/IMG]

starkiller

I got the 3-Stage Dual Solenoid Back and I have 3rd stage engaging and bypassed the OPS(Oil Pressure Switch) for now until I figure out which point the OPS goes into on the solenoid for the 3rd Stage(i think it is the one that is out the farthest from the block).

I am going to get a 2nd OPS as well for the 2nd Stage and wire it up.
If your wondering why I am putting the OPS's in. Well It may not be needed for it to run, but the way I see it, it adds and extra layer of protection to the engine.

I haven't gotten the RPM switch wired up yet because I was trying to find a place to mount it in the Engine bay and where I could get the power for the Relay/RPM switch from in the bay without having to wire it through the inside, since the Solenoid needs 12V/30amps.If anyone has any suggestions let me know!!!

Also Now as far as the AC, it turns on, but no cold air since the swap. I am unclear from the all the posts I have read if I need to check wiring, or if it might be a compressor gone bad when the old engine threw a rod.

And the car is an Automatic. and since the OPS bypass(i used a paperclip in put it in the plug) no CEL. Just damn airbag light.

starkiller

Can you tell me the Head Code of your Engine?

nealnanoHX

Cool thread. I would like to see one that is running 100%, IEH and tuned to see what this motor can do. I have heard good things about it. I had a D16Y5 in my civic but tossed it for a LS Vtec.

starkiller

I figure I would post these pics so someone else could see. I am going to rewire the power switch and add in another fuse for the summit RPM switch.
it's messy, but it's a temp setup so as long as it works.

danrs

iTrader: (1)

I have a DX EK hatch without cruise control.I also have an EX EK gauge cluster with a cruise control light that I can't use.

So this is how I wired the econo light to my cruise control light.
The green plug on the rear of the gauge cluster is for the cruise control.

The yellowish tan wire on the green plug is constant power.Wire it to the battery or tap it into the door locks wire on your fuse box.( I don't have auto door locks).

Then wire the red blue wire on the green plug to A30 on the ecu. This is the ecu triggered ground. (I have a p2j-003 ecu).

Then your all set.The CC light is now your econo light. You can just cut the other wires on the green plug and tape them up as they are not needed.

starkiller

I was wondering, since I have and automatic and I would like to run this as close as it should be to the original ECU, what ECU should i use and still be able to pass emissions. I have the stock tranny for 97EX and of course P2P ECU.

Also, would this engine fit a Del Sol?

nealnanoHX

YEs it will fit in a Del Sol.

danrs

iTrader: (1)

OK, I have been driving 300 miles everyday at work on this swap now for 3300 miles now.
I have the engine idling 100% perfect.No surging, no sputtering , nothing.It runs perfect but it took quite a bit off adjusting.Here's what I did.Cruise control econo light works great but I never stay in econo mode.LOL, it's mostly for coasting and it doesn't save much gas anyway driving in slow *** econo mode.

First I have the right ecu

Then tap a 2 wire AICV.( my D15 was off an auto)

Run an OBD1 eg charcoal canister with the 3 hoses hooked up correctly. Hook up the EGR with the EGR control solenoid valve.

Use a d16y8 throttle body but modify it with the stock auto D15 3 stage one.This means take off the top nipple vacuum thingy with pliers.Then drill out the spot on the y8 throttle body .Also drill the tiny two holes leading to the inside part of the TB.Then glue the top part were you drilled and glue in the nipple.This will make it like a stock 3 stage manual TB.This is for the extra vacuum line the 3 stage needs on the TB that the y8 one doesn't have.You will see what I mean if you compare the auto 3 stage TB with a y8 TB.

Adjust your valves to the D16y8 intake and exhaust specs.They are the same.

This is very important - Set your idle via the helms and then set the ignition timing with a timing light.

Next calibrate you TPS with a multimeter !!!!! Or leave it alone if your using a stock y8 one.The 3 stage one will be off from people banging it in shipping.My idle was way off using the 3 stage TB before I calibrated the TPS.Idle was perfect after calibrating it.

Well, if you do all this it will run and idle perfect ! Calibrating the TPS also improved my gas mileage.

The only issue I have now is the motor runs a little hot in 12 valve lean burn mode.I have a new thermostat,radiator and water pump.I'm using a slow dx tranny and it runs a bit hot in 5th gear.If I shift into 4th the temp goes back to normal.Maybe this motor needs the ex tranny gearing to cool properly in 5th gear.I'm gonna put in a ex tranny sat. If this doesn't fix it maybe my engine is just been abused a bit.I did a block test and my head gasket is good.I'm not overheating and the car runs fast .It seems like the Rpms need to be at 4000 to cool properly at 70 mph.I'm gonna put in a honda thermostat next.I'm using an Autozone brand 96 D16y8 one right now.

danrs

iTrader: (1)

To pass inspection in Texas this is what I will do on a manual.

Run a D16y8 ecu.

Hook up both 4 wire o2 sensors temporarily.

Do the Vtec OPS bypass wiring.

Then there should be no CELs and it will pass.

tony_2018

starkiller and danrs, what mpg are you guys getting so far. I've been busy but the only thing I have to worry about is the wiring and I'm good to go.

danrs

iTrader: (1)

OK, I got mine running 100% perfect.It's not running hot anymore in 5th because I had the thermo cooling hose routed wrong.I feel like a dummy.I'm getting 30mpg driving crazy.I'm a courier so I can't stay in econo mode long and make good money at work.I did get 337 miles on 10 gallons and I still didn't run out once.I will let you guys know when I get a strait 400 mile trip across Texas so I can stay in econo mode the whole way.It is possible to stay in econo mode doing 72 mph on my gps.I'm running a JDM d15 s40 manual tranny with the fast B000 gearing.I have an air intake,headers,magnoflow cat and a cat back system.This car is quick.I think the most mpg you can get is 38 really.That's what the car lists as max online.Look up mpg D15z7.I drive in regular vtec most of the time.Hooking the econo light to an ex gauge on the green cruise control light is great.Looks just like the JDM econo light almost.

tony_2018

Good to know, I've been busy so I had to put this project on hold. I notice you list the she control solenoid pin but what are the other wires for the egr? Where do they go.

danrs

iTrader: (1)

Egr is same as usdm civic hx.

http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif

tony_2018

I took a gamble and started depinning what I need from my jdm obd2b harness and this is what I got.

b12(green/yellow) and b24(green) are indeed the vtec solenoid signals,
b7(red) is for the egr control box on the firewall,
c6(white/black) is the egr on the intake manifold

Now there are two other wires on the egr plug, yellow/blue and green/black, if you notice under your intake manifold you will see two plugs that have been capped and one of them has nothing but green wires coming out? The green/black goes in that. The other wire goes into a brown retangle connector near your ecu connectors, plug that in there. and you are set.

edit: those pinouts should be added to op thread as well because of new info of egr pinouts.

edi 2: getting goosebumps. I'm almost done.

Unphzd

I have a p2j-003 ecu fs! If anyone is in need of one. Pm me. Nice to see this thread getting along idk if you remember me haha had the same motor in my ek then went b16 then got rid of the ek. So i have this p2j ecu laying around. ITS FOR A MANUAL!!!

Del_sol_love

This engine is in my car, but not much is done to it. Very helpful!


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fsl

great swap! i really want this engine in my civic shuttle for MILEAGE!! :-)