I know.. another overheating issue, but read though!
07-11-2008, 05:23 PM
#1
I know.. another overheating issue, but read though!
Ok, so I've waited approx. 2 hours before posting for help because I've been searching and trying to fix the issue before posting.
SO, car drives fine, but starts overheating during idle, obviously wind from driving cools the rad allowing the car to remain cool during rolling operation.
So when I got to my destination I stopped and checked for fan operation, at first it wasn't coming on and the gauge would start to creep to about 75% before HOT.
At this point I turned the car off, allowed it to cool a bit checked the coolant levels - fine .. checked the fan switch on the rad for any breaks in the wiring or corrosion inside the plug - also fine.
So now I figure lets check the fan motor and the fan relay .. first things first I switch the fan relay with the condenser relay and put the fan relay in question into the condenser spot (being there the same this would be a good check right? BTW no ac anymore so no condenser/fan for the AC to turn on.) Now after the car heats up I force some load onto the engine to create heat, the gauge moves just a hair above center and the boom the fan kicks on the engine is now cooling, sweet seemed like the issue, job well done, no need to check the fan motor either obviously because its coming on.
Well for ***** and giggles I wanted to test it a bit more, SO I put a heavier load on the motor holding revs to around 3k-4.8k and get it pumping making more heat, this time the gauge moves up to about 65-70% towards HOT, fan doesn't come on right away, so I turn on the heat to allow a little cooling and boom the fan comes on too and it cools back down quickly to normal operating temp. Obviously we have a issue here the fan should be kicking sooner and cooling before it starts to produce that much heat.
So now I'm a bit stuck, I checked the hoses during the warm up process, top hose is hot obviously and the bottom is cold.. after operating temp is reached the bottom becomes as hot as the top, so the thermo is closed to hold heat until it reachs proper temp and then it opens allowing full flow. Checked the sensor on the thermo housing, wires look good, doesn't look dirty, reconnected it.
Cliffs and situation: Fan is coming on, but not quick enough to keep the car at operating temp at all times, fan kicks on around 60-70% towards hot it cools it right down to proper temp (40-50%). Thermo seems to be opening/closing properly. What is causing the issue to make the fan turn on later than it needs too? Bad sensor improperly reading temp?
Car is a ej8 w/ a b16 swap, smokes a bit but its from bad rings causing small amounts of oil to burn, the coolant level is NOT changing at all, so I guess that rules out a leak or bad head gasket obviously. No problems with air in the system because it is not bubbling when I remove the rad cap and/or apply pressure to the hoses.
SO, car drives fine, but starts overheating during idle, obviously wind from driving cools the rad allowing the car to remain cool during rolling operation.
So when I got to my destination I stopped and checked for fan operation, at first it wasn't coming on and the gauge would start to creep to about 75% before HOT.
At this point I turned the car off, allowed it to cool a bit checked the coolant levels - fine .. checked the fan switch on the rad for any breaks in the wiring or corrosion inside the plug - also fine.
So now I figure lets check the fan motor and the fan relay .. first things first I switch the fan relay with the condenser relay and put the fan relay in question into the condenser spot (being there the same this would be a good check right? BTW no ac anymore so no condenser/fan for the AC to turn on.) Now after the car heats up I force some load onto the engine to create heat, the gauge moves just a hair above center and the boom the fan kicks on the engine is now cooling, sweet seemed like the issue, job well done, no need to check the fan motor either obviously because its coming on.
Well for ***** and giggles I wanted to test it a bit more, SO I put a heavier load on the motor holding revs to around 3k-4.8k and get it pumping making more heat, this time the gauge moves up to about 65-70% towards HOT, fan doesn't come on right away, so I turn on the heat to allow a little cooling and boom the fan comes on too and it cools back down quickly to normal operating temp. Obviously we have a issue here the fan should be kicking sooner and cooling before it starts to produce that much heat.
So now I'm a bit stuck, I checked the hoses during the warm up process, top hose is hot obviously and the bottom is cold.. after operating temp is reached the bottom becomes as hot as the top, so the thermo is closed to hold heat until it reachs proper temp and then it opens allowing full flow. Checked the sensor on the thermo housing, wires look good, doesn't look dirty, reconnected it.
Cliffs and situation: Fan is coming on, but not quick enough to keep the car at operating temp at all times, fan kicks on around 60-70% towards hot it cools it right down to proper temp (40-50%). Thermo seems to be opening/closing properly. What is causing the issue to make the fan turn on later than it needs too? Bad sensor improperly reading temp?
Car is a ej8 w/ a b16 swap, smokes a bit but its from bad rings causing small amounts of oil to burn, the coolant level is NOT changing at all, so I guess that rules out a leak or bad head gasket obviously. No problems with air in the system because it is not bubbling when I remove the rad cap and/or apply pressure to the hoses.
07-11-2008, 05:40 PM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
If you want the fan to operate at a lower temp, go buy the lower temp sensor which sells on passwordjdm, look under the mugen section i think. When you say the fan is turning on, is the fan really turning on at that point or is the temp just dropping, because if its just the temp thats dropping then it could be because your radiator fins are mostly bent and isnt letting any air to circulate.
07-11-2008, 05:48 PM
#4
Re: (Hanmin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hanmin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want the fan to operate at a lower temp, go buy the lower temp sensor which sells on passwordjdm, look under the mugen section i think. When you say the fan is turning on, is the fan really turning on at that point or is the temp just dropping, because if its just the temp thats dropping then it could be because your radiator fins are mostly bent and isnt letting any air to circulate.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The temp starts to climb past halfway and then the fan will kick right around 60-75% before it hits hot and then it will start to cool down. So yes the fan is turning on and cooling the motor but not fast enough.
It shouldn't ever climb past 50% right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bad thermo switch it sounds like. Jump the fan at the plug and see if it turns on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't understand how that is gonna affect when the fan turns on? Jumping the fan will prove the fan motor works which I already know, elaborate more if I'm missing something?
EDIT: I think I understand what your saying, jump it at the wires right before the switch on the rad right? (The little plug mounted to the rad?) That will prove the switch is stopping operation?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The temp starts to climb past halfway and then the fan will kick right around 60-75% before it hits hot and then it will start to cool down. So yes the fan is turning on and cooling the motor but not fast enough.
It shouldn't ever climb past 50% right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bad thermo switch it sounds like. Jump the fan at the plug and see if it turns on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't understand how that is gonna affect when the fan turns on? Jumping the fan will prove the fan motor works which I already know, elaborate more if I'm missing something?
EDIT: I think I understand what your saying, jump it at the wires right before the switch on the rad right? (The little plug mounted to the rad?) That will prove the switch is stopping operation?
07-11-2008, 05:51 PM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Memnoch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Memnoch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't understand how that is gonna affect when the fan turns on? Jumping the fan will prove the fan motor works which I already know, elaborate more if I'm missing something?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thermo switch is the piece thats attached to the thermostat housing which tells the fan that the motor is getting hot. If the switch is rusted up or something it will take hotter coolant/water to turn on the fan. If you jump the fan with a paper clip/wire/metal and the fan turns on then you know all your wiring connections are good and its not a wiring issue but a thermo switch issue. Does this make sense or do i have to go into it more?
Thermo switch is the piece thats attached to the thermostat housing which tells the fan that the motor is getting hot. If the switch is rusted up or something it will take hotter coolant/water to turn on the fan. If you jump the fan with a paper clip/wire/metal and the fan turns on then you know all your wiring connections are good and its not a wiring issue but a thermo switch issue. Does this make sense or do i have to go into it more?
07-11-2008, 05:57 PM
#6
Re: (Luserkid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thermo switch is the piece thats attached to the thermostat housing which tells the fan that the motor is getting hot. If the switch is rusted up or something it will take hotter coolant/water to turn on the fan. If you jump the fan with a paper clip/wire/metal and the fan turns on then you know all your wiring connections are good and its not a wiring issue but a thermo switch issue. Does this make sense or do i have to go into it more? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I get it now, if I disconnect the switch on the thermo housing and jump it with a paper clip and it turns on the switch is faulty.
BRB
Thermo switch is the piece thats attached to the thermostat housing which tells the fan that the motor is getting hot. If the switch is rusted up or something it will take hotter coolant/water to turn on the fan. If you jump the fan with a paper clip/wire/metal and the fan turns on then you know all your wiring connections are good and its not a wiring issue but a thermo switch issue. Does this make sense or do i have to go into it more? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I get it now, if I disconnect the switch on the thermo housing and jump it with a paper clip and it turns on the switch is faulty.
BRB
07-11-2008, 06:09 PM
#7
Re: (Memnoch)
Cool, I jumped the switch and the fan turned on, so I'm off to buy a fan switch tomorrow. Thanks mang.. 
One quick last question: obviously I'm gonna have to re-bleed/re-fill coolant after swapping switches right?
Modified by Memnoch at 10:23 PM 7/11/2008
One quick last question: obviously I'm gonna have to re-bleed/re-fill coolant after swapping switches right?
Modified by Memnoch at 10:23 PM 7/11/2008
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07-11-2008, 07:08 PM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Memnoch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Memnoch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One quick last question: <FONT SIZE="3">obviously</FONT> I'm gonna have to re-bleed/re-fill coolant after swapping switches right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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