hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
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hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
Yeah I hydroplaned into a curb a couple hours ago and kinda fucked either my tie rod ends or trailing arm... anyways here some pictures:
The wheel is fine though hahahahah
Any clue on how to fix this?? Never had to do this and since it's raining outside atm I don't want to get to into it and get water in my hub.
Thanks!!!!!!
The wheel is fine though hahahahah
Any clue on how to fix this?? Never had to do this and since it's raining outside atm I don't want to get to into it and get water in my hub.
Thanks!!!!!!
#6
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
Might have crumpled the unibody in where the LCA bolts up. Hope not, because that would probably mean you totaled your car.
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
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#10
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
good chances that it is damaged. Depending on speed of impact and how much your bushings and suspension absorbed
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
Just curious over the likelihood of the car being totaled from something which was moderately minor.
#12
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
Well **** happens, lesson learn (hopefully), and wait for a brighter day to take some pics. Should stop raining where you are, it totally cleared up today.
#13
re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
What make is your car?
eH.
#14
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
lets say the unibody is damaged. Doesn't mean it can't be fixed.
I once hit a tree with one wheel in a storm. Pushed the front lower a arm back. I was able to pull it with a chain and a tree then replaced the arm. It aligned fine with only a bit of caster change. Granted i may have gotten lucky but not all is lost. And i have some slight experience working with a good body man.
Evaluate under good light and then start deciding what to do
I once hit a tree with one wheel in a storm. Pushed the front lower a arm back. I was able to pull it with a chain and a tree then replaced the arm. It aligned fine with only a bit of caster change. Granted i may have gotten lucky but not all is lost. And i have some slight experience working with a good body man.
Evaluate under good light and then start deciding what to do
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
Okay hopefully I'll be able to leave classes early tomorrow when it gets nice and sunny out and diagnose/take better pics. Thanks for the responses thus far!!
#16
re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
6 years ago, my em1 "fish-tailed" and smacked the highway curb. I still drove it around (to get by) but knew something was off, its not until i replaced the passenger trailer arm (i upgraded the lca while i was at it) did I feel the difference. Basing off your pics, hopefully you just bent interchangeable parts and not where it connects to the car. Easy to know if it affected the cars frame is by looking for split lines that have clean paint or primer exposed.
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
So it was pretty bad.
The control suspension arm (i think) got bent REALLY badly.
And the part where it connects to the car seems to be screwed up quite badly, which means this is no longer diy i guess. :/
That's where the main damage was. The hub/rotor part appears to be bent a little bit judging by the minimal amount of clearance between it and the trailer arm.
Any suggestions on what to do now? Other than get the $30 part from rockauto lol
The control suspension arm (i think) got bent REALLY badly.
And the part where it connects to the car seems to be screwed up quite badly, which means this is no longer diy i guess. :/
That's where the main damage was. The hub/rotor part appears to be bent a little bit judging by the minimal amount of clearance between it and the trailer arm.
Any suggestions on what to do now? Other than get the $30 part from rockauto lol
#19
re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
Bent your Lower Control Arm (LCA) and tore up your sub frame. There was a member here who was able to order a new sub frame and have a shop weld it on for him, so it doesn't have to be a total loss.
Here's the THREAD if you're interested.
eH.
Here's the THREAD if you're interested.
eH.
Last edited by eHMxhACk; 11-24-2014 at 03:32 PM.
#20
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
Bent your Lower Control Arm (LCA) and tore up your sub frame. There was a member here who was able to order a new sub frame and have a shop weld it on for him, so it doesn't have to be a total loss.
Here's the THREAD if you're interested.
eH.
Here's the THREAD if you're interested.
eH.
#21
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
That subframe doesn't look too bad. I'd put a new control arm in, get some giant washers to tighten that thing up to get it back into place.
Then I'd remove everything, weld the gaping hole up, drill a new hole in it, bolt everything back together, and go to an alignment shop to see whether or not subframe replacement is actually needed.
Then I'd remove everything, weld the gaping hole up, drill a new hole in it, bolt everything back together, and go to an alignment shop to see whether or not subframe replacement is actually needed.
#22
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re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
I second that. Damage is easily manageable just get that hole repaired so that it all bolts up ok and it should be ok
#25
re: hydroplaned into a curb - tie rod ends or trailing arm?
The one thing I would ask is after you get it fixed, can you ease up on the gas pedal some, especially in the rain.
I say this based on a couple of things. One is, I'm currently driving on homemade soft rubber slicks (winter tires almost entirely bald) while I get my **** together. Even with zero tread to separate water, I don't start having traction issues until about 50 mph. That's with a steady rain fall on the least forgiving paving surfaces. On better surfaces in the same rain it's over 80 mph before I notice slight slippage.
From my experience, anywhere suitable for 50+ mph typically has either barriers or rounded curbs. The damage to your car looks like you slammed into the standard 90 degree type curb which tends to me normal city or residential streets. Definitely not safe for 50+ especially in the rain. And I suspect your tires have significantly more tread than mine so should handle a lot more water at speeds than mine. This would indicate even higher speeds than I am describing.
Based on this thought pattern, I am asking you to kindly slow down before someone more than just you or your car gets hurt.
I say this based on a couple of things. One is, I'm currently driving on homemade soft rubber slicks (winter tires almost entirely bald) while I get my **** together. Even with zero tread to separate water, I don't start having traction issues until about 50 mph. That's with a steady rain fall on the least forgiving paving surfaces. On better surfaces in the same rain it's over 80 mph before I notice slight slippage.
From my experience, anywhere suitable for 50+ mph typically has either barriers or rounded curbs. The damage to your car looks like you slammed into the standard 90 degree type curb which tends to me normal city or residential streets. Definitely not safe for 50+ especially in the rain. And I suspect your tires have significantly more tread than mine so should handle a lot more water at speeds than mine. This would indicate even higher speeds than I am describing.
Based on this thought pattern, I am asking you to kindly slow down before someone more than just you or your car gets hurt.