colorfulej1

How much hp can a oem ls clutch handle ? If too much power can it jus go out?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Not much. Maybe 160hp before it starts slipping.

cvcrcr99

If too much power, it will slip immediately and you will probably smell the clutch burning. At that point, it is basically done.

Libertariat

Depends. If it's an OEM Exedy I've seen people make 300whp for a time on the stock clutch disk. I suppose it would be alright as long as you aren't dumping the clutch or racing it at the strip.

So many factors go into this it's not even funny.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

When I got my car boosted I think I was only putting down around 160hp and the clutch started slipping.

TypeRfit

iTrader: (6)

Most Oem clutches only have a variance of about 20%. Do the math, grumpy is right, about 160ish you could have problems.

jbpnoman

Common misconception that I'm surprised no one has corrected yet. Clutches don't have horsepower ratings, they have torque ratings. If you can figure out how to build a 1000WHP Civic with only 98 ft/lbs of torque, you can stick with the stock clutch!

Stock clutches, when new, can handle about 140 ft/lbs of torque. As the clutch ages, especially if it's abused, that number will go down. Any competent clutch company (Exedy, Comp, ClutchMasters, ACT) will be able to tell you how much torque any of their clutch/pressure plate combos can handle. What I was told when getting a new clutch, and three of the four companies I listed all agreed, is to buy a clutch that supports 20-30% more torque than your car actually makes.

Also remember that the higher "stage" clutch you buy, generally the harsher the engagement will be, and the shorter it's life span will be. If you have basic bolt-ons, a stock replacement will be fine. Mild turbo/SC, a six puck sprung hub will do fine.

The best thing you can do is call a few companies. Tell them what you have, and ask for their recommendations. As long as you're talking to the tech department and not a sales guy/girl, they should be able to set you in the right direction.

94EG8

I'm not picking on you specifically, but everyone forgets Honda used the same clutch on B16As, B16Bs, B17As, B18A/B18Bs, B18Cs and B20s A lot of those engines make more HP and torque than an LS.

NotAJDMFanBoy

There is a lot of difference in clutches. You can increase the gripping power by using a different friction material or by increasing clamping force. Friction material is either the asbestos material used on OEM style clutches including "stage 1" clutches. Or there's various cerametalic and metallic compounds. To increase clamping force, there are heavy duty pressure plates. Again, a "stage 1" clutch generally has a OEM style friction disk and a heavy duty pressure plate. Some companies probably have higher pressure disks than others and some move the fulcrum of the little fingers on the pressure plate to make it easier to press in.

I got a D15B from a guy once with some "stage 3" clutch. It was only a year old clutch he said, but it was trashed. The material is far more abrasive on upgraded clutches and you have to feather them more to take off smoothly, which also doesn't help matters.

Both a friend and I have had built, turbo'd GSR engines. No idea how much either of us made, but he had some port work done, a Skunk2 style intake manifold, Crane stg 1 cams, about 9:1 compression and ran 12lbs of boost on a Turbonetics t3/t4 .57 trim 63AR turbo on a tubular manifold. He had a stage 1 clutch and romped on it and it held fine and when he tore it apart, it looked almost new so I put it on my GSR engine and am running like 5lbs on a similar setup and no issues.

From what I've noticed, a lot of people over estimate what they need when buying clutches, injectors, turbos, intercoolers, and exhausts.

colorfulej1

Wel i have a b18c type r with crower stage 2 n/a cams n valvetrain with ls trans it had a oe replacement advanced auto parts clutch.. it did fine but as son as i put in a b16 trans it started slipin nd justt went out it ddnt havr but 800 miles

94EG8

Here are some pics of a stage 3 6 puck XTD clutch I pulled a few years ago, It was less than a year old. Note how it's worn down to the rivets, also note the deep grooves in the pressure plate and flywheel. I don't know what was on it for mileage because the car it was in didn't have a working odometer, but lets say very conservatively it had 50,000 kms on it (about 30,000 miles)

GSaura

On a stock ls-t at about 8 psi, I made 225 whp and about 190 wtq. Stock clutch. Abused it at the drag strip and abused it whenever I drove it. The stock clutch never slipped or complained. I then took the turbo off of the motor (~8 months later) and have done three track days in the car, still on the stock clutch, still no problems. ymmv

slippery seal

mr. grumpy cat over here is 99.9% of the time right people, no if and or buts