JDMlyfestyle

Found this Kick *** write up a few days ago so i thought i would share it. I forget who wrote it. But if the person who wrote this see's this post I am not taking any credit for it.

How To Make Nokia Data logging Cable

These directions are pretty much the same as Jim Truett’s (Thanks Jim). His instructions were good but a little confusing to me. So here is my write up.


So first off I’ll assume you have an ODBI ECU with the CN2 de-soldered.

Next you need the USB cable Part #170-0787 from Radio Shack. I got mine there today 6/25/2004 for $9.95.

Once you have that cable you will need to cut off the cell adapter part on the end. Then you will strip the cable to expose the wires. Strip off about 1 inch.

Once you stripped the shielding you will see the shield conductor (silver wires in a woven pattern shielding the other wires). Twist this shielding to make it into a single wire. There will be some type of aluminum foil surround all the wires now, remove this foil.




Next you will strip the brown wire and solder it to the shielding conductor that you twisted into a single wire. It should look like this.



Then you will strip the orange and red wires. Then drill a hole in the side of the ECU case and feed the wire through.


I used some random wires lying around to solder to the CN2 points. This was because the USB cable wires were too thin and the one was to thick to make a good solder connection.

Then you will solder the brown/shield conductor to #1 pin on CN2

Solder the orange wire to #2 pin on CN2

Solder the red wire to #4 pin on CN2



As you can see I wrapped it around the ECU bar. This was done to help avoid accidentally pulling on the black wire and having to re-solder everything. This way then you pull on the wire it seems to put the pressure on the bar and not the solder point on CN2. Or you can use a zip tie.



Then of course wrap those connections with eletrical tape or use shrink wrap.

Here is the end result.



Also make sure you download the USB drivers from here:

http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...Tools

Luserkid

Hmm.... seems really interesting. And just by doing that you could log your data without Hondata, or Uberdata?

JDMlyfestyle

you would have to have a datalogging program yes.

http://www.ecucontrol.com is what im gonna try if not then i will be using Uberdata/crome.

FERIOkid

super duper

Turbogixxer

j000 need to go to the uberdata forums and pgmfi.org more!

litterbox

Holy Cow!

Help me out, is "loggin your data" simply recording the a/f, timing settings at specific rpms? So then the point of this would be to see how your engine is running, then use that info to tune accordingly with uber/hondata?

Soccerking3000

i use that exact setup with uberdata, you can log a/f ratio, speed, rpm, ait, coolant temp, and tps. It also can record exact a/f ratios per rpm in a lambda log. It makes it sooo easy to tune. gets a BIGGGGG from me, ohh and they are working on a new part of uberdata which saves the lambda log then auto corrects the fuel tables to a/f ratios you put in. So like if you want your air to fuel to be 12:1 from 0psi-12psi you just plug in that value and it autocorrects the values. It will make tuning unbelievably easy, like 20 minutes easy

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Help me out, is "loggin your data" simply recording the a/f, timing settings at specific rpms?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You use rpm and Map (engine load) to right cell(s) to mod. Say you have 11.5a/f at 5000 RPM and 0.35 in/hg (Mercury). You want 12.0a/f, you go to that cell and take fuel out to make it closer to 12a/f.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ohh and they are working on a new part of uberdata which saves the lambda log then auto corrects the fuel tables to a/f ratios you put in. So like if you want your air to fuel to be 12:1 from 0psi-12psi you just plug in that value and it autocorrects the values. It will make tuning unbelievably easy, like 20 minutes easy </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it is called auto tune. You can hit your a/f easier will it. Remember, A/f is only half of tuning. Anyone can add and subtract to get a a/f.

JDMlyfestyle

Technically A/F is 1/3 of tuning..lol
A/F
Ignition
Cam Timing

I just signed up in the Uberdata forums this weekend. Ive got alot of stuff going on but once i start playing around with the ECU more and all the settings ill be in there

thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

nice

Soccerking3000

ya but that is a simple way to put it for beginners, and the easiest way to make sure the car wont detonate under boost, we all know what happens when you lean out while boosting...

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Technically A/F is 1/3 of tuning..lol
A/F
Ignition
Cam Timing</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some cars do not have adj. cam gears.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya but that is a simple way to put it for beginners, and the easiest way to make sure the car wont detonate under boost, we all know what happens when you lean out while boosting...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can have knock (detonation) with rich a/f. Like I said, a/f is not everything. More data you have, the better your tune will be.

JDMlyfestyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Some cars do not have adj. cam gears.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well if you spend Thousands of dollars to get a Bad *** motor. and do not get adjustable cam gears i poo on those people. a $250 max investment on some cam gears could easily net them 15 whp on the right setup. 15whp on $250 or less is awesome

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well if you spend Thousands of dollars to get a Bad *** motor. and do not get adjustable cam gears i poo on those people. a $250 max investment on some cam gears could easily net them 15 whp on the right setup. 15whp on $250 or less is awesome </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your missing the point. I am speaking in general. Cam and igntion are still timing, no matter what way you slice it. Different engine set-ups (NA, FI) will react in different ways to the same changes on both motors.

JDMlyfestyle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Your missing the point. I am speaking in general. Cam and igntion are still timing, no matter what way you slice it. Different engine set-ups (NA, FI) will react in different ways to the same changes on both motors. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not missing the point. Just being difficult tonight

B16aDasher

awsome add it to the faqs

duh blacksheep

would this mean its logging the already a/f ratio from the already inaccurate stock 02 sensor?

JDMlyfestyle

no you need to install a wideband o2 in its place. then review the logs and tune the motor to your satisfaction then you can replace the wideband with the stocker.

street dreams

save

bry-typeR

hmmm???i have a 0BD2.just wondering if i can do it also on my 0DB2 ecu?

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bry-typeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm???i have a 0BD2.just wondering if i can do it also on my 0DB2 ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No

Extreme

You don't have to, OBD2 is capable of datalogging by design.
You will need a OBDII reader/datalogger.

bry-typeR

oh thank u to the advise.actuly i having a problem to my car.can u tell me what is the meaning of this code P0500 n there any idea i can solve the problem.the paper clip can help.

NatedoggAZ

do you know how to wire up a serial cable insteal of that USB cable?

Extreme

that would be VSS Circuit Malfunction (M/T) aka vehicle speed sensor.