HOW TO: DIY Wheel stud replacement with pictorial
06-28-2004, 09:09 AM
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Re: HOW TO: DIY Wheel stud replacement with pictorial (ruthless013)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruthless013 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
very impressive - thanks for taking the time.
i wonder if this applies to 6thgen civics as well - when i snapped some studs in the front, i went and replaced both front knuckles rather than having to bring it to have someone press out the hubs, which at the time would have also required new bearings (i was told).</TD></TR></TABLE>
it applies to 4/5/6 gen civics, 90-01 integras, and probably alot more hondas.
Whoever told you you would require new bearings was not nessecarily wrong. It's what your SUPPOSED to do, but bearings are expensive and you need to pay to have them pressed in/out. The whole reason for this write up is for people who want to do their own work, but dont have the $200 or so to pay for bearings and labor.
very impressive - thanks for taking the time.
i wonder if this applies to 6thgen civics as well - when i snapped some studs in the front, i went and replaced both front knuckles rather than having to bring it to have someone press out the hubs, which at the time would have also required new bearings (i was told).</TD></TR></TABLE>
it applies to 4/5/6 gen civics, 90-01 integras, and probably alot more hondas.
Whoever told you you would require new bearings was not nessecarily wrong. It's what your SUPPOSED to do, but bearings are expensive and you need to pay to have them pressed in/out. The whole reason for this write up is for people who want to do their own work, but dont have the $200 or so to pay for bearings and labor.
06-28-2004, 09:28 AM
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that was a stupendous(sp?) DIY!
I loved it one of the more clear written ones ive seen/read in a while.
Somebody put it in the DIY thread please
I loved it one of the more clear written ones ive seen/read in a while.
Somebody put it in the DIY thread please
06-28-2004, 10:17 AM
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I'm a newbie so please don't bash me if I'm wrong. Aren't those four holes on the hub for putting in some bolts to press the hub out? I know this can be done with the rear hubs on a drum equipped civic (mine's a 95) but there's only two holes for that. That would make renting that tool to pull out the hub unnecessary (sp). I'm may be wrong (cause I only did the rear), and if I am I apologize. Awesome write-up anyways, could have used it a few months back when I had to do this!
06-28-2004, 10:41 AM
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Re: (Fakter1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fakter1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm a newbie so please don't bash me if I'm wrong. Aren't those four holes on the hub for putting in some bolts to press the hub out? I know this can be done with the rear hubs on a drum equipped civic (mine's a 95) but there's only two holes for that. That would make renting that tool to pull out the hub unnecessary (sp). I'm may be wrong (cause I only did the rear), and if I am I apologize. Awesome write-up anyways, could have used it a few months back when I had to do this!</TD></TR></TABLE>
the rear hub isnt press fit, thats why you can thread in those little 12mm bolts to get it off.
edit - I don't even know why you would have to use anything to get the rear hub off, it just slides off, when you remove the spindle nut.
the rear hub isnt press fit, thats why you can thread in those little 12mm bolts to get it off.
edit - I don't even know why you would have to use anything to get the rear hub off, it just slides off, when you remove the spindle nut.
06-28-2004, 05:35 PM
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Re: (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Could you explain how the anti-seize would cause the nut to slip on the stud while torqueing it down because I don't see how it would.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes since torque and related bolt preload are a function of at least friction, then if you provide a substance that reduces the coefficient of friction you actually will need to go further on a thread to obtain the same amount of torque. (Correct me if I am wrong)
Example with no anti-seize 80 ft-lbs may require 4 threads or something, with the anti-seize there (lowering friction coefficient) you may require 5 threads and therefore pull threads or something worse since (if the stud was dry) you might be at 100 ft-lbs for example.
Like I said we see it every so often at work. We hand torque vehicles and if they come in with anti-seize and **** we usually run into that problem on at least one bolt. IMO not a big worry.
Could you explain how the anti-seize would cause the nut to slip on the stud while torqueing it down because I don't see how it would.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes since torque and related bolt preload are a function of at least friction, then if you provide a substance that reduces the coefficient of friction you actually will need to go further on a thread to obtain the same amount of torque. (Correct me if I am wrong)
Example with no anti-seize 80 ft-lbs may require 4 threads or something, with the anti-seize there (lowering friction coefficient) you may require 5 threads and therefore pull threads or something worse since (if the stud was dry) you might be at 100 ft-lbs for example.
Like I said we see it every so often at work. We hand torque vehicles and if they come in with anti-seize and **** we usually run into that problem on at least one bolt. IMO not a big worry.
06-28-2004, 06:23 PM
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Re: (JV)
GREAT write up!
question: would the old studs that are being pressed out, be easier to press out if some penatrating oil was used like WD-40, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster. Or is the press fit too tight for that to even make a difference?
question: would the old studs that are being pressed out, be easier to press out if some penatrating oil was used like WD-40, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster. Or is the press fit too tight for that to even make a difference?
06-28-2004, 06:41 PM
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Re: (LostSolVTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LostSolVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GREAT write up!
question: would the old studs that are being pressed out, be easier to press out if some penatrating oil was used like WD-40, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster. Or is the press fit too tight for that to even make a difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they come out with 2 or 3 hits with a hammer, or a couple pumps on a press. No need for oil.
question: would the old studs that are being pressed out, be easier to press out if some penatrating oil was used like WD-40, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster. Or is the press fit too tight for that to even make a difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they come out with 2 or 3 hits with a hammer, or a couple pumps on a press. No need for oil.
06-28-2004, 06:58 PM
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Re: (666 y0!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM Ninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nice!</TD></TR></TABLE>
06-29-2004, 03:22 AM
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Re: (92BlackSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92BlackSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes since torque and related bolt preload are a function of at least friction, then if you provide a substance that reduces the coefficient of friction you actually will need to go further on a thread to obtain the same amount of torque. (Correct me if I am wrong)
Example with no anti-seize 80 ft-lbs may require 4 threads or something, with the anti-seize there (lowering friction coefficient) you may require 5 threads and therefore pull threads or something worse since (if the stud was dry) you might be at 100 ft-lbs for example.
Like I said we see it every so often at work. We hand torque vehicles and if they come in with anti-seize and **** we usually run into that problem on at least one bolt. IMO not a big worry.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice reply, it makes sence but... Does anti-seize actually lower the coefficient of friction? If so, does anyone know by how much? It just don't seem like it would cause any damage. I mean, those studs are hardened and usually coated. I just don't see the anti-seize causing more harm than good but I could be wrong.
In the deffence of the anti-seize, you don't know how people take care of the cars you see at work so it might the cars owner and not so much the anti-seize. Just a thought, could be wrong again but it's just a thought.
Yes since torque and related bolt preload are a function of at least friction, then if you provide a substance that reduces the coefficient of friction you actually will need to go further on a thread to obtain the same amount of torque. (Correct me if I am wrong)
Example with no anti-seize 80 ft-lbs may require 4 threads or something, with the anti-seize there (lowering friction coefficient) you may require 5 threads and therefore pull threads or something worse since (if the stud was dry) you might be at 100 ft-lbs for example.
Like I said we see it every so often at work. We hand torque vehicles and if they come in with anti-seize and **** we usually run into that problem on at least one bolt. IMO not a big worry.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice reply, it makes sence but... Does anti-seize actually lower the coefficient of friction? If so, does anyone know by how much? It just don't seem like it would cause any damage. I mean, those studs are hardened and usually coated. I just don't see the anti-seize causing more harm than good but I could be wrong.
In the deffence of the anti-seize, you don't know how people take care of the cars you see at work so it might the cars owner and not so much the anti-seize. Just a thought, could be wrong again but it's just a thought.
06-29-2004, 05:01 AM
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Re: (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anti-seize actually lower the coefficient of friction? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Is wet ground more slippery than dry? Yes, why? Added water = less friction = sliding etc...
Itself doesn't cause any damage but if you overtighten a bolt what happens? Damage or it breaks off usually. Pulling threads also happens if it goes too far.
No I doubt that car owners are at fault since we don't see those problems unless the studs have anti-seize or the studs are open to the elements and rusted.
Is wet ground more slippery than dry? Yes, why? Added water = less friction = sliding etc...
Itself doesn't cause any damage but if you overtighten a bolt what happens? Damage or it breaks off usually. Pulling threads also happens if it goes too far.
No I doubt that car owners are at fault since we don't see those problems unless the studs have anti-seize or the studs are open to the elements and rusted.
06-29-2004, 05:43 AM
#42
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Re: (92BlackSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92BlackSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is wet ground more slippery than dry? Yes, why? Added water = less friction = sliding etc...
Itself doesn't cause any damage but if you overtighten a bolt what happens? Damage or it breaks off usually. Pulling threads also happens if it goes too far.
No I doubt that car owners are at fault since we don't see those problems unless the studs have anti-seize or the studs are open to the elements and rusted.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok
I understand what your saying but if you consistently torque the lugs nuts then I don't understand how this will cause damage. You said yourself that "Itself doesn't cause any damage", and that over tightening causes that damage. So that would be the car owners fault for over tightening.
edit:
Nevermind, I understand what your saying now. It just took me a couple times. Your saying that since the anti-seize lowers the friction coefficient then that what causes you to over tighten the nut. ok, just a little slow I guess. But the open ended nuts is the owners fault for not taking proper steps to insure the studs not to rust.
So basically the damage doesn't come from removing the nut, it's repeatedly torque the nuts down too tight (due to the lower friction coefficient of the anti-seize) that weakens the threads and could possible cause the studs to spin. Is this what you were trying to explain? Sorry for the confusion
Is wet ground more slippery than dry? Yes, why? Added water = less friction = sliding etc...
Itself doesn't cause any damage but if you overtighten a bolt what happens? Damage or it breaks off usually. Pulling threads also happens if it goes too far.
No I doubt that car owners are at fault since we don't see those problems unless the studs have anti-seize or the studs are open to the elements and rusted.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok
I understand what your saying but if you consistently torque the lugs nuts then I don't understand how this will cause damage. You said yourself that "Itself doesn't cause any damage", and that over tightening causes that damage. So that would be the car owners fault for over tightening.
edit:
Nevermind, I understand what your saying now. It just took me a couple times. Your saying that since the anti-seize lowers the friction coefficient then that what causes you to over tighten the nut. ok, just a little slow I guess. But the open ended nuts is the owners fault for not taking proper steps to insure the studs not to rust.
So basically the damage doesn't come from removing the nut, it's repeatedly torque the nuts down too tight (due to the lower friction coefficient of the anti-seize) that weakens the threads and could possible cause the studs to spin. Is this what you were trying to explain? Sorry for the confusion
06-29-2004, 06:22 AM
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Re: HOW TO: DIY Wheel stud replacement with pictorial (93CivicSI)
Question for you...I was under the impression once the bearing race seperated from the bearing the bearing was toast? I was thinking that when you pulled or pressed the hub out it should either come out without pulling the bearing race out or it may pull the race too thus breaking the bearing? I am thinking that because the new bearing come in one piece not two?
John
John
06-29-2004, 08:37 AM
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Re: HOW TO: DIY Wheel stud replacement with pictorial (1fastVX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fastVX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question for you...I was under the impression once the bearing race seperated from the bearing the bearing was toast? I was thinking that when you pulled or pressed the hub out it should either come out without pulling the bearing race out or it may pull the race too thus breaking the bearing? I am thinking that because the new bearing come in one piece not two?
John </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not really possible to get the bearing out in one piece, because there is a c-clip that holds it in place, that you can't get to with the hub still on. Like I said though, this is not the "right way." It doesn't mean that it doesn't work though. When I was done, I installed the wheel with the car still jacked up, and checked for play in every direction. Spun it to make sure it spun freely. Everything is fine.
Here's a write up that Willard made, but it involves pullers, 28ton press, and a bunch of different sized 3/4 drive sockets to press the parts out. https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2
John </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not really possible to get the bearing out in one piece, because there is a c-clip that holds it in place, that you can't get to with the hub still on. Like I said though, this is not the "right way." It doesn't mean that it doesn't work though. When I was done, I installed the wheel with the car still jacked up, and checked for play in every direction. Spun it to make sure it spun freely. Everything is fine.
Here's a write up that Willard made, but it involves pullers, 28ton press, and a bunch of different sized 3/4 drive sockets to press the parts out. https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2
06-29-2004, 09:02 AM
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Re: HOW TO: DIY Wheel stud replacement with pictorial (666)
excellent write up! i'm planning to go with extended studs on my GSR brake upgrade, and this info will be very helpful. thanks for sharing 
06-29-2004, 09:25 AM
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Re: HOW TO: DIY Wheel stud replacement with pictorial (opi)
666...I used Willard's guide to press mine out also. What I was asking is I thought when the bearing seperated like that it was messed up and needed to be replaced? I was not saying the way you did it was wrong...just trying to find out info about the bearing coming apart like that. Mine seperated so I thougth they were shot so I replaced them. I was figuring that you would not have to replace them if the hub slipped out of the bearing without pulling out the race also?
PS...The c-clip only holds the bearing in....it will not interfere with removing the hub at all. I would say pulling the hub without removing the race also will be an issue of how tight the race is stuck to the hub.
Thanks for the info!
John
PS...The c-clip only holds the bearing in....it will not interfere with removing the hub at all. I would say pulling the hub without removing the race also will be an issue of how tight the race is stuck to the hub.
Thanks for the info!
John
06-29-2004, 04:11 PM
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Re: (Skynet)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skynet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey 666 how come your brake rotor rotate that way? i though is the other way... hmm</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont give a crap what way they rotate. Cross drilling is only for looks, they came on the gsr brakes.
I dont give a crap what way they rotate. Cross drilling is only for looks, they came on the gsr brakes.
