Honda Oil Change in 1996 Civic LX?
#4
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Re: Honda Oil Change in 1996 Civic LX? (Ser1N)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ser1N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my d16y7 only holds 3 and a half till it hits the full marker.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You raise a good point that's worth reinforcing. When changing the oil, you should not simply add the manufacturer's stated capacity and then close it up. Rather, you should add somewhat less than that stated capacity, and then continue to add small amounts while checking the dip stick to ensure that you are at the proper level and not overfilled.
You raise a good point that's worth reinforcing. When changing the oil, you should not simply add the manufacturer's stated capacity and then close it up. Rather, you should add somewhat less than that stated capacity, and then continue to add small amounts while checking the dip stick to ensure that you are at the proper level and not overfilled.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Honda Oil Change in 1996 Civic LX? (95ProjectEJ1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My D16z6 is 4.2, so just pick up 5qts and measure out the .2 or so. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure it's that much? It's been years since I had a D series, but I remember only needing a little over 3.5 quarts.
Are you sure it's that much? It's been years since I had a D series, but I remember only needing a little over 3.5 quarts.
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Re: Honda Oil Change in 1996 Civic LX? (Padawan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You raise a good point that's worth reinforcing. When changing the oil, you should not simply add the manufacturer's stated capacity and then close it up. Rather, you should add somewhat less than that stated capacity, and then continue to add small amounts while checking the dip stick to ensure that you are at the proper level and not overfilled. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That is exactly what I do!
You raise a good point that's worth reinforcing. When changing the oil, you should not simply add the manufacturer's stated capacity and then close it up. Rather, you should add somewhat less than that stated capacity, and then continue to add small amounts while checking the dip stick to ensure that you are at the proper level and not overfilled. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That is exactly what I do!
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Re: Honda Oil Change in 1996 Civic LX? (Padawan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You raise a good point that's worth reinforcing. When changing the oil, you should not simply add the manufacturer's stated capacity and then close it up. Rather, you should add somewhat less than that stated capacity, and then continue to add small amounts while checking the dip stick to ensure that you are at the proper level and not overfilled. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, and make sure you wait 3 minutes after you stop pouring to ensure that all the oil drained to the bottom of the pan and that you're getting an accurate reading.
Do that, and a 7 minute oil change just became a 20 minute project.
.
Empty all your oil, iono why he told you 4.2, 4.2 is for a COMPLETE ENGINE OVERHAUL, not an oil change, helms calls for 3.5 quarts for a Z6 on an oil change with the filter. I'm pretty sure it's the same for a B7 because they would have it listed as for the Z6 in the helms manual, but there's no engine particular here.
Real simple project, I have no idea why everybody insists on making this a 2 hour drawn out project.
You drain your oil, when it's almost all drained you get to work on the filter - unscrew that, remove that.
When it's all out, put the plug back in, put the new filter on. I spread some (a thin layer of) new oil on the gasket around the outside of the filter..you don't need to, some people do, some people don't, doesn't really make a difference.
Go upstairs, put 3.5 qts of oil in it, that's 3 quarts, plus half of another.
Wait a few minutes (like the time it takes you to put your tools away), and then check your dipstick.
It'll be right where it's supposed to be.
EDIT:
If you really wanna be safe and make sure you don't wanna overfill, put 2.25 (that's a quarter of a quart) in there and it should read 3/4 full on the dipstick (the dot to dot is full or -1 quart, not full to empty).
Though in honesty it doesn't matter, I've seen plenty of pple dump 4 or 5 quarts in there w/ no damage due to foaming. 3.5 should have yet set.
You raise a good point that's worth reinforcing. When changing the oil, you should not simply add the manufacturer's stated capacity and then close it up. Rather, you should add somewhat less than that stated capacity, and then continue to add small amounts while checking the dip stick to ensure that you are at the proper level and not overfilled. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, and make sure you wait 3 minutes after you stop pouring to ensure that all the oil drained to the bottom of the pan and that you're getting an accurate reading.
Do that, and a 7 minute oil change just became a 20 minute project.
.
Empty all your oil, iono why he told you 4.2, 4.2 is for a COMPLETE ENGINE OVERHAUL, not an oil change, helms calls for 3.5 quarts for a Z6 on an oil change with the filter. I'm pretty sure it's the same for a B7 because they would have it listed as for the Z6 in the helms manual, but there's no engine particular here.
Real simple project, I have no idea why everybody insists on making this a 2 hour drawn out project.
You drain your oil, when it's almost all drained you get to work on the filter - unscrew that, remove that.
When it's all out, put the plug back in, put the new filter on. I spread some (a thin layer of) new oil on the gasket around the outside of the filter..you don't need to, some people do, some people don't, doesn't really make a difference.
Go upstairs, put 3.5 qts of oil in it, that's 3 quarts, plus half of another.
Wait a few minutes (like the time it takes you to put your tools away), and then check your dipstick.
It'll be right where it's supposed to be.
EDIT:
If you really wanna be safe and make sure you don't wanna overfill, put 2.25 (that's a quarter of a quart) in there and it should read 3/4 full on the dipstick (the dot to dot is full or -1 quart, not full to empty).
Though in honesty it doesn't matter, I've seen plenty of pple dump 4 or 5 quarts in there w/ no damage due to foaming. 3.5 should have yet set.
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Thanks a lot everyone. Grandmother just gave us the car about a month ago or so, however it needed the oil changed soon so we decided to do it, only problem was she misplaced the owners manuel so we had no clue what to put in it. Searched google and it only wanted to talk about oil filters, appreciate it everyone.
#9
Darth ModerVader
Re: Honda Oil Change in 1996 Civic LX? (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, and make sure you wait 3 minutes after you stop pouring to ensure that all the oil drained to the bottom of the pan and that you're getting an accurate reading.
Do that, and a 7 minute oil change just became a 20 minute project.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who said anything about waiting 3 minutes? 5W-30 will get to the pan very quickly, and a few extra minutes to perform an oil change isn't the end of the world. I've lost count of how many times a car has come back from an oil change shop (or dealer) overfilled because the tech apparently couldn't spare a bit of time to do it properly or just added the manual's specified amount. Will it foam or otherwise damage the engine or cat if overfilled by a small degree? Most likely not, but the oil level on the dipstick was chosen for a reason. It comes down to the fact that if you're doing the oil change yourself, why not do it the best way you can? The same people trying to save a few minutes of time during the oil change are often likely the ones who are also filling with $5 per quart synthetic and running a Mobil 1 filter.
Yes, and make sure you wait 3 minutes after you stop pouring to ensure that all the oil drained to the bottom of the pan and that you're getting an accurate reading.
Do that, and a 7 minute oil change just became a 20 minute project.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who said anything about waiting 3 minutes? 5W-30 will get to the pan very quickly, and a few extra minutes to perform an oil change isn't the end of the world. I've lost count of how many times a car has come back from an oil change shop (or dealer) overfilled because the tech apparently couldn't spare a bit of time to do it properly or just added the manual's specified amount. Will it foam or otherwise damage the engine or cat if overfilled by a small degree? Most likely not, but the oil level on the dipstick was chosen for a reason. It comes down to the fact that if you're doing the oil change yourself, why not do it the best way you can? The same people trying to save a few minutes of time during the oil change are often likely the ones who are also filling with $5 per quart synthetic and running a Mobil 1 filter.
#10
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Re: Honda Oil Change in 1996 Civic LX?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blazin Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you sure it's that much? It's been years since I had a D series, but I remember only needing a little over 3.5 quarts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry if I have misinformed anyone, but I am simply going off what I have inside my helms manual and have poured in myself.
Are you sure it's that much? It's been years since I had a D series, but I remember only needing a little over 3.5 quarts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry if I have misinformed anyone, but I am simply going off what I have inside my helms manual and have poured in myself.
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