Originally Posted by Padawan
You raise a good point that's worth reinforcing. When changing the oil, you should not simply add the manufacturer's stated capacity and then close it up. Rather, you should add somewhat less than that stated capacity, and then continue to add small amounts while checking the dip stick to ensure that you are at the proper level and not overfilled.
Yes, and make sure you wait 3 minutes after you stop pouring to ensure that all the oil drained to the bottom of the pan and that you're getting an accurate reading.
Do that, and a 7 minute oil change just became a 20 minute project.
Empty all your oil, iono why he told you 4.2, 4.2 is for a COMPLETE ENGINE OVERHAUL, not an oil change, helms calls for 3.5 quarts for a Z6 on an oil change with the filter. I'm pretty sure it's the same for a B7 because they would have it listed as for the Z6 in the helms manual, but there's no engine particular here.
Real simple project, I have no idea why everybody insists on making this a 2 hour drawn out project.
You drain your oil, when it's almost all drained you get to work on the filter - unscrew that, remove that.
When it's all out, put the plug back in, put the new filter on. I spread some (a thin layer of) new oil on the gasket around the outside of the filter..you don't need to, some people do, some people don't, doesn't really make a difference.
Go upstairs, put 3.5 qts of oil in it, that's 3 quarts, plus half of another.
Wait a few minutes (like the time it takes you to put your tools away), and then check your dipstick.
It'll be right where it's supposed to be.
If you really wanna be safe and make sure you don't wanna overfill, put 2.25 (that's a quarter of a quart) in there and it should read 3/4 full on the dipstick (the dot to dot is full or -1 quart, not full to empty).
Though in honesty it doesn't matter, I've seen plenty of pple dump 4 or 5 quarts in there w/ no damage due to foaming. 3.5 should have yet set.