Jdmkids Manny

Sup guys,

I just have a few questions that have been roaming my mind recently regarding my EK4 B16a2 rebuild. In all honesty, i need to fully rebuild the whole motor, reason being is....the motors got a spun rod bearing. I'm thinking, a rod and another crank might just not cut it, given the fact that the crank journals might be all chewed up and what not, Let alone the rod itself. However, I'm planning on keeping it as a stock B16a2. I'd just like some suggestions from builders that have experienced hands on knowledge with such.
I'm thinking about getting a rod and piston combo, i don't trust ebay bs and i would rather lean towards rockauto. However, this time i'm willing to fork out the extra cheese for a quality set of rods and pistons like.......Skunk2 or Supertech ect... I'm on a budget here. so 200-300 bucks for a set of rods or pistons wouldn't hurt if i could build a healthy long living monster. I'm also looking at investing in valve-train perhaps a set of valves, valve springs/retainers. A full gasket set from top to bottom (quality). Again, I'd like for this to be a strong motor with power and longevity to the best ability possible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-Thank you.


-JdmKids Manny

tony_2018

Tear into the motor before even thinking about ordering sporadic ****.

SidPM-EG6

imo, if youre going to rebuild stick some darton sleeves in there and bore it to 84.5mm same as a 1.8 .. dont forget about ur crankshaft and check it and rectify it if possible you can sharpen the edges of it etc.. do loads of stuff just search on the internet or get a mechanic to help you
but speaking material wise. either wossner high comp forged pistons
or id say a good combo is CP pistons and Eagle Rods.
for your head you will want for sure skunk2 valvetrain
And if youre willing to spend id say some nice JUN cams or TODA

gl wiv the rebuild

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

some rockauto stuff is the exact same crap as ebay, buyer beware. you need to totally rip it down before you can make any decisions, really. if i was in your shoes, i would look for a healthy GSR block and throw an oem rebuild kit at it. MUCH better bottom end.

chrysler kid

1 post? You think you can spend $2-300 on parts when a full rebuild will cost you 3x more than that?

You have many more items to research than the components, like who is going to do your work

tony_2018

Not to mention tools, machine shop, etc...etc..

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>Junk2, quality? &nbsp;</p><p>$200-$300 for an engine rebuild with forged internals? </p><p>The FAQ sticky is not optional reading. &nbsp;You need to sit down and make a plan. &nbsp;Literally everything you specifically need to know can be found by just putting in a little bit of effort. &nbsp;At the end of the day, though, the only bit of advice that matters ITT is &quot;rip it apart and see how fucked up the crank and block are.&quot; &nbsp;Nothing else matters until then.</p>

Jdmkids Manny

Thanks a lot brother, I figured that would be the first thing i would need to do.
Just kind of preparing for that worst case scenario (finding a chewed up rod and crank journal). Thought i'd swing by here to see If I could get any suggestions regarding parts that work together (Piston & Rod Combo) or parts to stay away from ect... Thank you for the feedback btw, it is greatly appreciated.

-JdmKids Manny

Jdmkids Manny

Thanks Sid, I really appreciate your feedback. I'm planning on keeping it around the 82mm range max. on stock sleeves, with a set of supertech pistons, I was looking up on JHPUSA.com - JHPUSA and they seemed to have some supertech pistons, my heart just could'nt settle with ebay or rockauto. so i'm thinking supertech pistons shown here; http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp .........and then a full gasket set shown here; http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp ............. and valve train shown here; http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp ... ........ and of course a few more goodies, honestly for the rods/pistons i might seek other alternatives, but i think i'm in the ball park. Again its going to be a weekend car, so i would want it to last, yet still have a healthy and strong motor when i grab it for the weekend cruises and what not.


-JdmKids Manny.

Jdmkids Manny

Currently were I live is almost impossible to find honda parts readily available like gsr blocks, pistons, cranks, heads, ect... I would be sorting/shipping everything out from the states in order to complete this build. Its a turn around time of an estimated 2-3 years to complete the project. Looking at picking up the hyper flex energy suspension kit for the whole chassis...ect.. Without a doubt a gsr is top notch with the oil squirters in the blocks. I think B16's came with oil squirters as well ? Correct me someone if i'm wrong. Thank you for the feedback eghatch9295


-JdmKids Manny.

Jdmkids Manny

Yea excuse the 1 post deal, I used to have another account back in the day.
Lost the password, so had to make another account. Apologies, you misunderstood. What I meant by spending 200-300 bucks is on a set of each. So for example, 200 for a full gasket set, 300 for rods, 200 for pistons, 300 for valve-train components...ect... I undestand that it will all add up. I'm planning on doing most of the work myself, I'll be taking it over to a reputable shop to have overbored along with the pistons, advice the tech to keep a specific piston to wall clearance...ect..ect... Thank you for the feedback chrysler kid.


-JdmKids Manny.

Jdmkids Manny

Thank you NotARaCist, I'll definetly be doing some homework on this project.
Appreciate the feedback, I'll just have to tear this **** apart and update you guys when I get a chance.

-JdmKids Manny.

Jdmkids Manny

Quick question guys, If i ended up boring out to 82mm, would I need to get a bigger head-gasket ? Or would the stock 81mm headgasket work fine with the 82mm bore ?

-Thank you.


-JdmKids Manny.

tony_2018

not on a 300$ budget....

SidPM-EG6

You would need an 82mm headgasket or bore yours to 82mm .. `

Btw i see theres alot of "fear" from ebay around here.. you can buy through ebay just look out who you are buying from .. read careful.. description and check if prices arent like ALOT cheaper than "reality" per example there are actual shops using ebay to boost their sales and get rid of stock... including Honda dealerships..

PS: youre gonna need alot more than 200 300$ btw

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>See that little &quot; button next to the quote button? &nbsp;You can click multiple posts to quote them all in one post, instead of posting 7 times in a row. &nbsp;Please do that, instead of posting 7 times in a row.</p><p>At this point, though, you need to stop looking at the &quot;how&quot;, and start looking at the dollar signs. &nbsp;$300 isn't going to get you much of anywhere.</p>

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

b16 did not come with oil squirters. on ebay, b16 standard size pistons, rings, and wrist pins can be had in ycp and nippon for $150. i have no experience with nippon, but have used ycp in a d series with no complaints. your target budget of $300 wont work, you'll have that in pistons (above setup) bearings (acl=$100), and an EXTREMELY cheap (read: don't) rubber gasket set. machine work isn't cheap, depending on your damage it can get expensive quick. even if all you do is have someone press your new pistons onto your old rods and you do the assembly, i would expect to spend closer to a grand. that is, of course, assuming that your crank is saveable, your rods are still usable, and your block can get by with just a rehone. don't forget to budget in a new head gasket, timing belt, water pump, and head bolts or studs. see the $$$ adding up? this is why my best advice to you is to find another block. you can re ring it, put a new set of bearings in, and call it good.

tony_2018

What ^^^ this guy just said.

theYBLEGAL

Wrong. My JDM B16A 2nd gen has squirters.

Nippon makes the factory cast pistons, OEM Genuine Honda.

The yuriana or whatever, guy on ebay selling Nippon pistons is a good guy. I run them in my B16A. I think it was like $400 for the pistons, skirts coated, machined for c clips/floating pin, and scat forged rods. Spent another $400 on bore/hone and balance of rotating assembly. If I remember right. It was 2 years ago, and this daily setup runs strong.

Oversized pistons/boring are pretty much the only way to get the right piston to wall clearance

Jdmkids Manny

Thx Sid, appreciate it.

Thx, This builds going to cost an average of 3k, I understand.

Thx, eghatch.

Thank alot theYBLEGAL, appreciate the info.

PaulyDiesel

Definitely open it up first and see what it looks like, or better yet have the machine shop check it out. If your cranks saveable your costs decrease significantly. Inline four sells gasket kits for top and bottom ends for a complete rebuild, as well as tons of other OEM parts you'll need/want, you should check them out. Good luck!