JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Well here's the run down. I have a 95 JDM H22a in a 92 Civic CX. All was running well until last week when I did a compression test. I didn't unplug the PGMFI, but the car didn't flood. I also didn't unplug the harness on the distributer. Well I put the plugs and wires back in and car won't start. So I changed the ignition coil, and still didn't start. Cleaned cap and rotor and still didn't start. After all this the battery was dead so I replaced battery and still didn't start. Checked alternator and its all good. Switched out plugs and still no start. Car seems like its about to turn over but doesn't. The starter is fine as well. Please throw me any thoughts if you guys have any. Thank you very much in advance for your help.

DragII

did you put the plug wires back in the correct order?

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Yes, I never even took them off the cap. I also checked all the connections from the wires to the cap and the connections on the inside of the cap to see if the rotor was sending a spark.

DragII

what all did you touch? retrace your steps....remove your plugs, and regap them, and torque them down w/ a torque wrench.

it's turning over, but not starting right? check if you are getting spark.


[Modified by DragII, 7:48 PM 2/22/2003]

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

I did. I know someone that had this problem before on a B16, and it ended up being the ICM. Plugs are gapped right, plus I tried two different sets, one set being brand new. Both are NGK platinums.

scdarksol

you might have burned your whole distributor, since that happened to my friend before he change coil+ignitor, and it wouldn't start, so I gave him one of my spare distributors, and it started right up!

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Did it seem like the car was about to turn over though? The car seems like its about to catch but it doesn't. ****, I guess back to the good ole garage for me. Thank you for all your input guys.

DragII

how exactly did you perform this compression test? I always remove the plug wires from the distributer to keep it from starting...what did you do?

shonnys92si

check ur fuse box under the hood, and look at the ecu fuse to see if its burned

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

I already checked all the fuses and they are all good. As for the compression test, I pulled the wires out from the plugs, pulled the plugs, and ran a compression test in each cylinder. With the plugs and wires pulled, the car won't start. This is the only way I know to do a compression test. Is there another way. And thanks guys for the input.

shonnys92si

not to be funny but do u have gas.

civicgsr19

Did you take the dist. off at all? Because they do go on backwards, and when they do they sound like they want to start but wont. But im not too sure if the dist is uses the same stuff as a b series but check the rotor and make sure the screw is still holding the rotor on.

DragII

yeah thats right.

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Yes I do have fuel, and I never took the distributer off. I left it on when I replaced the ignition coil. And yes, some parts are interchangable within b-series motors and H-series. The ignition coils can be swapped, but the ICM's are different. Thanks anyways though. Oh yeah, and the set screw for the rotor is in.


[Modified by JDMH22HATCH, 2:25 AM 2/23/2003]

h22 civic

check for spark and check for fuel if ya got both check plugs to see what condition they r in{example carbon fowled} if it still dont start prob burnt out your ignitor just change distributor

UltRaH22

it might be flooded........ it happen to me b4 it sounds like it right about to start but doesnt... i think its just flooded.

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

No, its not flooded. I pulled the plugs and let it sit for a while, and then tried again. The car sat for three days untouched and wouldn't start so I know its not flooded.

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Well, I've been working on the car for the past 3 weeks now on mulitple ****, but last night I finally got the car to start. So far I replaced the ICM, Ignition coil, and rotor. The ICM and IC were from a GSR dist. that I had lying around, but when I went to drive the car, it seems like its misfiring like a ****. Anywhere above 2500 rpms when I hit the gas, the car misfires, shoots flames and pops like crazy. It seems like the timings way off, but I never took the distributer off and never adjusted it. Help me out if you can guys with any ideas, cause I need to have the car ready to run by March 15. Thank you.

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so I just got done working on it some more, put in different ignition coil, changed ICM again, changed plugs again, changed wires again, changed rotor again, and car still won't start. The car will start when jump started (after a while of cranking), but it is a brand new battery as well. The alternator has been tested and is fine, but once the car starts, it surges, and when driven above 2500 still bogs and misfires and feels like its out of gas. Fuel lines are all good, and fuel is being delivered into the fuel rail, injectors, and cylinders. I'm boggled but any help would be useful. Thanks guys.

Steve Berman

are all 4 cylinders firing? Have you checked each plug wire to see?

poison

holy ****. that is a strange problem. sorry you're having such an issue with the motor man -- especially after doing a simple compression test.

i'm just going to start off from scratch on have you check items as you go.

I do have confidence that you know what you are doing and such, but to clear up things and make sure you are doing things right for us to help ya out, we need to make sure checks and verification procedures are done and able to be read so others may help you & narrow down to what EXACTLY the problem is and nail down at it, get it solved, and call it good.

I saw that you said your car was sitting for several months. What's funny is, I *think* the problem is simply bad gas. When gas settles and doesn't do ****, it runs like ****, surges, and you have all sorts of problems. Just get some octane booster, or get some carb spray and spray that **** into the throttle body.

But if that isn't the issue, then follow these steps:

First, check to see if you have any CEL codes. Pull the code and trace from there if one exists.

Next, make sure ALL grounds are properly on. This includes the battery ground, thermostat housing ground, tranny ground and valve cover ground.

Next, check to see if you have spark.

You can see if all internals in the distributor are good and functioning properly just by getting a simple spark and checking all four cylinders.

Please verify the plug wires are plugged in securly into the right place on the distributor. They are placed in as follows:

2
4 1
3

Next, have all plugs sitting out of the motor. Put in a metal screw driver (phillips or flathead -- doesn't matter) into the spark plug wire, then place the screw driver about 1 mm from the radiator support, and have someone crank the motor over. Start with the #1 cylinder, and go all thru four cylinders to verify there is spark in EVERY cylinder. When the motor cranks, there should be spark between the screw driver and the radiator support.

If you do NOT get spark, then you will need to fall back and test items in the distributor and replace as you go. Start with the plugs, then wires, then cap, rotor, coil, ECM, etc.

If you DO get a spark, then congrats, your distributor is working perfectly in delivering spark.

Next thing to check is fuel delivery. First, check to see if the fuel pump clics over when the ignition is on the on switch. If it doesn't turn on, obviously replace the fuel pump.

If that turns on, then check to see if fuel gets to the fuel rail. You can crank it over w/o the spark plugs and see if you smell it as one say. You can also disconnect the hardline from the fuel rail and see if fuel squirts.

If you do NOT get fuel, then replace the fuel items as you go. See if fuel squirts out of the hardline from the fuel pump. This is the connection that goes to the fuel filter. If it does not deliver and the fuel pump is good, then we have issues, and someting is clogged in the main line. Just replace as you go; the fuel filter, fuel hardline to fuel rail, the fuel rail, fuel injectors, then verify wiring is proper, and ALSO that your resistor box is properly plugged in. You can do this by putting a test light in one of the wires on the resistor box to see if there is power to it. If there is power to the resistor box, then wiring is fine.

I very much hope at LEAST one of these will solve the issue. Like I said above, I do think it is possibly bad gas from the symptoms you explained. And you can resolve that by putting in octane booster, or just get some **** at the local auto store to mix in with the fuel, or just simply put in new fuel

good luck bro.


[Modified by poison, 8:22 PM 3/6/2003]

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

Thank you guys all so very much for all the input. Especially you Poison since I had IM'ed you earlier about this. I really appreciate all the help. So here is the current rundown. Fuel pump on, resistor box good, cap and rotor good, injectors and rail good, gas is good because the 2 minutes that it ran last night I put in gas and octane booster, I am now getting spark after switching to the GSR Ignition coil and ICM, and all the plugs and wires are good.

I got the car fired up tonight, but just like before but not as bad, whenever I step on the gas when throttle is at 35% and above, the car misfires and bogs. Its kinda hard to explain, but its like when you have a crack in fuel line. I think the timing is just off a little now, but I want to get opinions before I go buy another timing gun (some ******* broke my last one).

Thank you all once again. I really appreciate all of your help and advice.

poison

I'm glad it fired up. At least you're getting somewhere

if it's misfiring and bogging -- that sounds either that timing is off, there is a code, or you are running really really rich WITH timing off.

I am pretty sure the GSR coil and ICM will work just fine, but it may be causing the issue to your 'bogging' as well. I could be wrong, but I would try 93-95 accord ex (f22) ICM and coil.

hope you get somewhere bro. good luck.

EK MONEY

iTrader: (5)

check spark and fuel..