Wdpfreak145

Okay guys, idk if any of you saw my intro thread about 8 months back, but my car, a 95 honda civic ex 4dr, was in shambles.

It had bondo'd doors and weather stripping, plywood and carpet for a trunk liner, no horn, non-function reverse lights, no dome light cover, no radio, and a kawasaki-green spraypainted radiator housing.

I've fixed a lot of the problems, but still need help with the others. A few of the things i need help with:

1. My reverse lights don't work. The fuse is good, the switch is new (replaced it when I bought the car). With a battery box, I could hook jumper wires to the harness plug behind the back seat, and they came on. That is all the info I have at this time.

2. I have no horn. There is a long section of wires that come down from the passenger-side blinker and are cut off. I do, however, have the horn and harness and several feet of wire from another (unknown year) 4 dr civic. However, the wire colors do not match. I can't think of what they are right off hand. What color should they be? The fuse in the underhood box is good, as it works for the brake lights and the horn (it is labeled horn + stop, so that's what I'm assuming).

3. My carpet was in shambles and smelled like ***. So I tore it out. I think I may have broken some of the clips for the trim pieces off, but I have another parts car I can get those off of. Where can I get new carpet??

4. The screws for my ashtray + cig ligter are now gone, this portion of the dash is just barely being held in. What kind of screws go in there???

5. For the longest time, I had no radio. My clock wouldn't keep time either. I tested the wire running to my radio for the constant 12v and it read between 3 and 4v. I ran a constant from my fuse block to the wire that splits to feed the constant 12v to the clock and the radio and fixed that problem. However, this is unsightly. I later discovered the "backup" underhood fuse was blown. Could this have cause that?

6. My ABS and E-brake light have been coming on lately. The e-brake light will come on if I go around a corner to hard, or hit a bump. Is this sensor related? There is obviously no negative affect on my driving, but my ABS light is on and caused me to run a red light tonight. No, I wasn't ricer piping or speeding, I was watching my speedometer because it sometimes jumps and when I looked up the light was red. Slammed the brakes, pedal didn't jerk and wheels didn't lock up and the roads were wet. So I should have locked the wheels but it barely slowed me down. This I need to fix.

7. My rear-passenger side door does not open. Several days before I bought the car, the owner's friend put the child safety lock on and now it won't open from either side. Anyone know how to fix this?

8. I need some door molding pieces. The parts car I'm tearing apart had 3 good ones which were the front driver, rear driver, and front passenger. The rear passenger was dented, and the fenders were already off the car so I don't have those. Where can I get those?

9. My fenders have a few dents here and there and I'd like to get them replaced. Where can I get cheap ones? PWJDM doesn't make them for the sedan.

10. For the past 8 months, I'd never heard my fan kick on. My engine has always run at about 40-45% operating temp. The other night while I was backing out of my girlfriends uphill driveway, the car started to steam and smelled heavily of antifreeze. I parked on the flat, turned the car off, and couldn't find the steam. Turned the car back on and let it run for about 10 minutes, still no steam. Then I feel a rush of hot air hit my hand. The engine fan had actually kicked on. The thing is that none of my cooling system components are broken or ****ed up, it's just my engine never runs hot enough to kick the fan on (or it only kicks on for about 10 seconds at a time lol). Any idea what would cause the steam?

Any and all answers, opinions, and advice are greatly appreciated. If you can, please reference your answer to the corresponding problem by putting a number at the beginning. Thanks guys.

Hopefully I can get this car BACK to stock and then start on my ferio conversion. Franklin Perez, I'm about to make your 4 door look like a big wheel, so look out.

92lxsleeper

for the carpet. go to www.stockinteriors.com

stacey david recommended this site on gearz.

Former User

Auto or manual?

Double check 10A fuse 15 with a test light. Otherwise, there may be a broken wire.



Yes, the Back Up fuse is needed for the radio to work and for the clock to keep time.


The brake light is on because the fluid is low in the master cylinder reservoir. This generally indicates brake pad wear rather than a leak, though check both.

If the ABS fails, the brakes should lock up. It sounds like your ABS is working or you need to replace the brake pads and rotors.

You obviously need to look carefully for a coolant leak. Also consider replacing the thermostat and radiator cap. In the meantime, top off the coolant and bleed the system.

Wdpfreak145

It's a manual.

I'll check the fuse tonight.

I can't read electrical diagrams but I'll look closer at it tonight.

I'll replace that fuse and test it before I splice it back in.

The low fluid might be true but the light comes on intermittently. There is abbroken seal in the mc because on hot days my brake pedal will sink to the floor under gentle pressure.

I could find no leak when I got the car on level ground. It hasn't leaked since and still maintains temp perfectly fine. No puddles, no steam.

street_racer_271

iTrader: (8)

you can get most of you parts from majestic honda or oempartsguy on here.

and for #6, check your brake fluid, probably low

Wdpfreak145

Will call majestic on Monday. Have to pm oempartsguy

Wdpfreak145

Checked brake fluid- it was low. Replaced brake fluid and the ABS light and the Brake light both went off.

I checked the no. 15 10A fuse and it was good (it had a 15 in it) and I replaced it with a brand new 10A fuse that I tested with a test light. The previous fuse tested good as well. That means a broken wire I guess? If I could get pics/diagrams of the wires I can test for continuity.

Haven't checked my horn wires against the horn at the shop, bt will do soon.

Topped off coolant. No further leaks or steam, temperature has still stayed constant.

Any more ideas on the reverse lights? That kills me that I can't get those working... It's a real safety hazard.

Former User

With the key in ON(II), check for battery voltage at the switch on the transmission and the bulb receptacles in the rear.

Wdpfreak145

How can I check the voltage at the switch? I'm guessing with a multimeter, but I'm dumbfounded when it comes to electronics. Same goes for the bulb receptacles as well lol...

Wdpfreak145

MAAAAAJOR progess today. Went to my local import shop and talked with the owner. He was finishing up another swap (JDM b18c w/ a 12:1 compression ratio, sounds like a f*ckin bored out harley and he was tuning up some of the electronics and getting it all set straight. He had his multimeter out and I asked him to make sure I was getting power at the reverse switch. With the key engaged all the way, both sides of the switch were getting exactly 12v from the battery. At the harness plug for the brake lights and the reverse lights however, there was .01 to .02 volt. Tested at the fuse block (no.15, or at least that's what I thought it was at the time) read a full 12v. So we checked again at the harness plug behind the back seat and it gave the .01-.02 volts again. So from what I've gathered, it's somewhere between the fuse block and the harness behind the backseat, which makes it a straight shot cause that's the cluster of wires that runs right beside the frame rail.