enot767

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys iv done a bit of looking and havnt really found to many resources for people trying to wire a obd2a gsr into a ek *ex model - has vtec* using the ek harness. since the ej8 harness is relatively the same as the gsr its supposivly alot easier to use. Be aware that you are going to have to cut alot of wire looms!!

from my knowledge ill need to repin the gsr ecu and run a knock sensor. which is:
Connector "D"
pin 6
Then run that to a knock sensor which i *believe to be* behind the gsr intake manifold
OBD2a Ecu pinout

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...bd2aPinout.gif

supposivly the rest of the harness works, but as i was connecting everything i found out that the gsr crank position sensor (the sensor on ALL obd2 honda/acura engines located by the oil pump/alternator) dosnt fit the plug on the ek harness!! i believe that i can just cut the plug off of the gsr and solder it onto the ek harness. i could also go with the bypass route, but im not sure which would be a better option - http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/ckftrick.htm - Will using the gsr plug work, and will there be an wire in the plug since supposivly it has 3 wires and are there any other plugs i need to be aware of?

enot767

iTrader: (1)

any information on using the stock gsr intake manifold and the butterfly valves? i have the car the gsr came out of so i should have all the vacuum lines.. im just not sure what to do about it

teamworxek9

iTrader: (5)

Save yourself the hassle and get type r or skunk manifold, then there is no need to worry about the the butterfly valves. That and they flow better.

raidacaipo

Im not sure what you have.. a civic hatchback with non vtec or an ex civic??? if you have an ex civic then you dont have to worry about the engine harness.. all you do is plug and play and maybe extend a couple of wires and leave some plugs unplugged.. if you have civic hatcback then most likely you need to do the IACV fix, swap plugs from a B series harness for the IAT sensor. add knocksensor, add vtec, add vtec pressure switch, do the cfk fix etc... however we need to know more details on the year of your car and what model, what engine are you running like obd1 or obd2, and what ecu are you planning to use obd1 or obd2. as with the manifold I would just replace it with a skunk2 or blox manifold. The wiring of the IAB sensor is really easy for the stock gsr manifold BUT as for performance goes it sucks.. youll be much better with an aftermarket manifold

enot767

iTrader: (1)

1997 Honda Civic EX Couple, d16y8

yesterday i hooked the rest of the harness up to the gsr and since i HAVE to use obd2a (emissions) i still have to add a knock sensor. The crankshaft position sensor however is my next battle.

ek harness - 3 wires:
White/red
Blue/Red
Orange/Black

Gsr harness - 2 wires:
Blue/red
White/red

Can i just ground the black/orange??

and i dont have the money for a new intake mani.. so can someone just tell me how to hook it up in the mean time? ill geta s2 next month from my sponsor

Edit: found a vacuum line diagram for a gsr
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/at...iab-vacuum.jpg

Wiring for IAB:
pink/blue wire on the 2-pin IAB solenoid valve connector.
The remaining yellow/black wire on the 2-pin IAB connector
needs to be spliced into an ignition switched +12 volt source.
This is the same power source that the O2 sensor uses.

Anon51

You could just do the CKF Trick. thats what i did with mine. and i have the same setup. but with a skunk2 intake manifold.

enot767

iTrader: (1)

well i couldnt figure out the whole iab thing. the problem is i didnt know what the knock sensor looked like - a little back story *when i was done the harness i knew i should be missing a knock sensor but i didnt see it until i looked under the intake and saw a sensor plug and figured that was the knock sensor* - well it turns out that the knock sensor is actually near the oil filter, and the sensor i was looking at was really the IAB sensor plug.

so now to run the IAB sensor wire:

run the pink/blue wire to pin A26 (Obd2a - IAB)
then the yellow/black wire on the 2-pin IAB connector needs to be spliced into an ignition switched +12 volt source (evap solenoid -emissions canistor)

tazeat

Well wtf, I just did the whole process, I had +12 to the IAB then ran the other wire to A26... Took me forever got the right connector to fit in the plug, soldered everything up...

Check it out w/ a multimeter, the damn ECU is putting out +12v at idle

I thought it was suppose to put out GND, that's what everyone seems to say it does... So I ended up rewiring it so the other wire is connected to a screw on the Intake Mani (GND) and presto it works. Butt dyno definitely says I have more low end torque :p. But it's confusing how it's backward from what I am reading...


It's a B18C1 in to a '96 EX (car in my sig). Previous owner didn't hook up the IAB.

Also to those wanting to do this, tip: get the plug that goes on to the IAB and also find a plug similar to the OBD2a plug so you can take the pins out of it for the ECU part or I don't know how you would do it without making a mess.

94EG8

The '96 - '00 EXs have a knock sensor so you should have to wire that in. For the CKF sensor you are supposed to be able to color match the 2 wire and disregard the 3rd (the 3rd wire is simply for shielding) As for the IAB, ground one wire, run the other wire to pin A26.

Edited because I screwed up. Info is correct now.

Vindicator9000

There's nothing wrong with using the butterfly valves. They give you a much better torque curve than an aftermarket manifold, with the tradeoff that you lose a bit of horsepower on the high end. They make the engine less peaky, more fun in the midrange, and more streetable. Unfortunately no one knows this, because most people who swap gsrs don't ever hook them up.

You can't use a type r manifold on a gsr head. The runners on a gsr are totally different and don't match up. Your only option if you don't want to run the gsr manifold is to go aftermarket.

To wire it up (and this is for OBD2a, OBD2b is totally different), you need a round 2 pin plug that goes into the black plastic vacuum box under the manifold. One side of the plug (I think it's the left side, but I'm not sure) goes to A14 on the ECU. That should be the positive side. The other side of the plug goes to pin A13.

Then, you need to T off a vacuum line and run a vacuum source to the black box. You need a strong vacuum source or it won't work... I ran a T almost straight off of the manifold. The black box should have one nipple with vacuum going in, another 2 nipple that loop between each other, and one nipple that goes out to the vacuum diaphragm that hangs off the driver's side of the manifold.

tazeat

That's what I was saying... The A26 was putting out +12v, so I had to GROUND the other wire, not tap it in to the 12v like I had read everywhere it works now...

94EG8

Ok, I figured out whats going on, checked a couple of wiring diagrams. OBD1 GS-Rs are setup differently than OBD2. On the OBD2 GS-Rs the second wire is a ground just exactly how you set yours up with switched 12v power from the ECU, OBD1 GS-Rs are exactly the opposite they get constant 12v power with a switched ground from the ECU. Weird.

EK TUNER

GSR IAB wiring has got to be the most misunderstood information here on Honda-tech. It fustrates people enough that they are willing to go out and purchase an aftermarket intake manifold just to avoid having to hook up two little wires! LOL! But... correct me if I'm wrong here... but the conclusion i'm coming to based on the infomation presented in this thread... FOR OBD2A ECU's, the ECU sends a positive(+) trigger for the butterfly valve to open. So, then one wire is run to A26, and the other is grounded(pink/blue and yellow/black... doesn't really matter which is which). And you can either ground a wire physcially or splice it to a grounded wire in the ECU(like what vindicator9000 is suggesting with A13?). RIGHT? WRONG??

tazeat

Correct, I just grounded it with an unused screw hole on the intake manifold itself right above the IAB plug (soldered wire to a ring connector that I put the screw through). The other wire goes to the ECU. The colors don't matter which goes to which I tried it both ways and it worked.

enot767

iTrader: (1)

wow, i havnt had a honda in a few years. i recently had a friend get a honda so i was going to look up a few things. sorry to keep you hanging out in the wind!

but like i said this is for the "OBD2A" ONLY. as it seems the obd1 is opposite and you sir have figured out how to rig it up, congratulations!