Former User

Just to verify, these testes were done on terminals of the unplugged MAP sensor connector with the key in ON(II), right? Why did you pull out the ECU for these voltage tests?

To have the greatest confidence that the ECU is actually the culprit, you also need to probe the white wire for continuity and a short. These tests are done with the MAP sensor connector and the ECU connector with the white wire unplugged. Then test for end-to-end continuity and continuity to ground at each end.

justindenton

That is correct, first I turned the ignition key on, I unplugged the map sensor and tested the wiring harness. The White showed the .7ish voltage - it varied between .6 to .8
Then Yellow and Green wire tested a little over 5volts..

So I figured to verify a break in the wire or anything crossed, that I would verify the voltages from the source.

So I pulled out the ECU, and with the harnesses plugged into the ECU and the ignition on, I put the Negative lead into the Green/Blue Wire and the positive into both the white then the Yellow green, and the voltages came out the same respectively as they did at the Map Sensor end.

Sound ok?

Former User

That's okay, but your test may not rule out a short in the white wire or a problem with white wire terminal in the ECU connector and ECU. With the white wire unplugged at both ends, test for continuity to ground at the terminal in the ECU connector. Next inspect the white wire terminal in the ECU connector and the ECU for damage or anything that would impede continuity. If everything tests and looks fine, make a WTB thread to get a deal on an ECU for your car.

justindenton

Ok sounds logical. I'll run that last test and see what happens. And then looks like if results are positive from that test then the next thing to do is start seeking an ECU.

Former User

Sorry for being a pain in the neck. I think a couple more tests are worth it to give you the best chance that buying a new ECU fixes the problem.

justindenton

Not a problem. Thanks for all the help. I'll report back the results tommorrow.

4drint3gr4

can u guys kinda explain to on how to check for continuity? do u have one of the tester at one end of the wire and the other tester at the other end?

justindenton

Well just to close out this thread, I finally got in the ECU. Purchased a new unit from AutoZone. - Got to get my Rewards points.
Anyhow, plug the new ECU in and thing fired up so perfectly, it was like I had a brand new car. I cut out the "hotwire" switch to make the fuel pump kick on. Because it was kicking on, on its own now.

As for checking continuity. I would just ground one in of the wire and then test for ground at the other end. Take one end ground it to the body or the Ground on the battery terminal, probably need some extra wire but its good to have.
Then on the other end of the wire take a light probe, and slap the positive on any positive lead you have, then the ground onto the wire your testing. If it pulls ground and the light lights up, your golden. If not, you either don't have the other end grounded correctly or your wire has a break in it somewhere.

Anyhow, in short, came to find out the ECU was bad. $250 for a new one after Tax.. Bites, but I only paid $400 for the car so only into the ride for around $650 right now. and its like Mint inside and out, very small spot of Honda Rot, nothing else.

Thanks again.

Justin

Former User

Congrats on the gratifying fix.