Herro Panda

So Im finally on to tensioning my timing belt on my 99 civic ex d16y8 and Ive searched and it seems the only ones with pics I could find were obviously loose or DOHCs. Since this is such a vital part and i dont want to smash my valves in front a loose belt, can anyone confirm that this is how loose it should be? Everything turns together, but this is at .5 rpm, not 5000.



I guess the main issue is that most people have said that there should be more tension on the intake side and mines the opposite and there is quite a bit more tension at that. Ive done the "loosen tensioner, rotate crank, tighten tensioner" twice and the tension hasnt changed. Just want to double check that this is right, since its my first time doing this.

Thanks in advance.

Amphiron

On the first picture I can see the slack between the teeth and cam, I would say it's not tight enough. Looks like you are using the old spring as well. When you put the tensioner into the "loose" position; push on it until it is all the way loose. Also with the old spring you will prlly have to help the tensioner out a bit so that it can pull the belt tight when you are doing the final tension adjustment.
I think we need a better write up for these cars, I think once I finish mine I am going to make one specific for mine. (D16Y8)

fragmare

The tensioner sets the belt tension automagically. Make sure you replace the tensioner and spring if you're replacing the timing belt too. I don't think it's even possible to "stretch" the belt so it's +1 tooth on one side and -1 tooth on the other. That is unless your engine takes a 103 tooth belt and you bought a 106 tooth belt there. Whenever I've replaced my belt or slipped it back over the cam pulley, it will BARELY clear it, even with the belt tensioner bolt loosened.

P.S. You should really post your year/model/version and your engine info in the topic or opening post so we can help you further. I'm sure Ron will tell you to do just that here shortly.

Herro Panda

Oops, sry i added the info. Oooooooooooohhhhhhhhhh, i think i figured it out. Are you just supposed to push the gear down from the corner the belt wraps around it?

Herro Panda

Wait nope, jk no idea what im doing. Looks like my tensioner spring is pooped if thats too loose. People say they "help" it out with a screwdriver or something. Exactly how does that work and how do you know youve applied the right amount of pressure? If it helps, the exhaust side of the belt is pretty tight, but the other side is still pretty slacky. Is this better?

Wdpfreak145

No. You should pull up on both sides of the belt, keeping an eye on the timing marks on the crank pulley. Your cam cog should already be set to tdc relating to marks on the upper timing cover behind it. Make sure that you have the marks lined exactly up at tdc. It took me about 10 times to get it right. Once you're positive that you have the timing set right on both the crank and the belt slipped over properly, tighten down the tensioner. Rotate the crank (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) one full (crank) rotation and check the relating timing marks. It won't hurt to spin the motor the opposite direction just an fraction of an inch if you miss the timing marks, but make sure they are spot on. Turn the engine over again and check again. The timing belt should be taut on both sides.

Herro Panda

Well, i didnt replace the timing belt, i just needed to remove the cam to get the head off, so i was able to keep timing the same by marking the belt and gear (both crank and cam) and ziptying the belt to the cam before i slipped it off. It was at tdc, but since i had to rotate it twice trying to tension it, its obviously a bit past that and i dont plan on going backwards to try get it there without proper tension.
Heres a little video showing how it is now. Pretty tight on the exhaust side with still some play one the intake side (which is how it should be???)

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/441...sjnsosoctg.mp4

fragmare

Ya know, if it's giving you that much trouble, why not just take the timing belt COMPLETELY OFF and put it back on? Jack up the driver's side, take off the driver's side wheel and splash guard, get the crank pulley off and remove both timing belt covers. That way you have a really good side-view of the cam pulley, crank, water pump and tensioner so there's no question if it's on right or not.

Herro Panda

...because it already is. did you not look at the video or pics? everything is clearly off. its not a matter of if its on right or not, its a matter of if it is tensioned properly. thanks though...

Wdpfreak145

Dont worry about the slack/tension for right now unless the mileage on your timing belt warrants a replacement. Set can and crank tdc, slip the belt over the cam gear while watching the crank tdc mark. The crank will spin back and forth as you pull on the belt and every little smidge counts. Put that damn belt over the cam gear, tighten the tensioner down through the lower timing cover hole, rotate, check, rotate, and check again. The motor will correct everything else once it's spinning at 650 RPMs

Herro Panda

Ok, so as long as when i spin the crank or cam the rest of system spins im set? And from what you said, it seems as though it will get further tensioned once its running, correct?

fragmare

Then you're all set. The spring loaded tensioner does the rest. Just make sure you torque the tensioner bolt to spec (it's 33lb-ft, i believe). If you're suspicious of the tensioner itself, then simply replace it. They're fairly cheap.