ferio-ichi3

Yes i want this thing to last, but i would like to know it held up thanks to me. It would make more sense to take it to a shop. But i think itll take the meaning of "build" lol. Ill update within the next couple days, hopefully with bearing specs, fresh tanked block, maybe rods and pistons.

I wonder when/if the people who did multiple builds will chime in..

jbpnoman

The people who did multiple builds? Hi, you're talking to a guy who has 4, soon to be 5 race ready motors under his belt, most of which are still fully functional to this day The one that isn't...well, lets just say the owner of that car turned his boost controller up a liiiiittle too high.

Translation: He shattered his block.

ferio-ichi3

Well besides you lol, i should have said more people like you, who has 1st hand experience, good and bad. And dam, i still havent checked mine for cracks yet.. i havent seen anything noticible. When i take it to the machine shop, ill have them check. What was your favorite build?

ferio-ichi3

So i never met the guy to swap trannies with, so looks like getting the clearances will have to wait until next week. This week, i will just hot tank, and hone the block, so next week, itll be a nice update. Rods, hopefully pistons( looking for p30, if anyone has them, let me knowwww), bearings, main bearings. Hopefully, either next week, or week after that, the bottom end will be assembled!

jbpnoman

My favorite build to work on was a frame-off restoration of a '67 Shelby. My favorite "it's done" build was a supercharged V10 custom mounted into an Explorer, mated to an Allison, putting about 1100AWHP down. Absolutely HATED working on that piece, but when it was done, it was something to be proud of. Never again, though.

ferio-ichi3

Nice! Was that for you, or a customer? Thats crazy, any videos? I think once a swap, imma do a mild build on my y7. Im now contemplating on doing the hottanking by myself. Getting that superclean, and leaving the block in for like an hour or 2. Itll save money, but i want that hot tank look.

jbpnoman

The Shelby was my cousin's, I was working with him on it. The Exploder was for a friend in college, down in Daytona Beach. Did that work in the back of the parking lot. He was one of those "too much money, not enough sense" people who thought he would just buy the biggest motor he could and it would go right in. Ended up having to rip out the firewall and re-weld it about 8" back, which meant ripping apart half of the interior to make it work, too. Custom mounts, notched the frame to fit the transmission...it was a process.

It's funny, with the cars I've built, I've never built a raw, "fast" Honda. The closest I had was another friend's Darton sleeved B18B1, but it was limited by the stock LS transmission, as well as the stock valvetrain. Before he got the money to fix those problems, he totaled the car and parted it out.

You could hot tank it yourself. I always have. Simple Green, a garden hose, and a few scrub brushes go a LONG way. If I'm sending hardware to a shop for cleaning, it's either getting hydrosonic cleaning, or media blasting. It's just about how much time you're willing to put into it to get it clean. Hell, if you have an air compressor and an air gun, you could even make your own DIY media blaster.

ferio-ichi3

Hmmm...well i would like to not spend money if i dont need to..so tell your method of cleaning? Do your blocks come out looking fresh like they just came out the factory? And ido have a air compressor, but no air gun..what is media blasting? I know it some form of cleaning..but if you say i need a air gun and compressor, would i be blowing some sort of chemical, or whatever to clean a part? I just watched a video, and the guy was spraying something..i dont know, i would like to make it as clean as i get, within like an hr or 2. Im more worried about the inside vs the outside, but i would like that clean. I cleaned the breather box with a toothbrush, and some degreaser, and it came out not bad at all. I alsodid a small portion of the block, and it looked a bit lighter than the rest.

jbpnoman

A compressed air gun is just something simple, like this. They're basically the cheapest air tool you can buy, because all they are is a solid pipe, with a trigger valve built in.



This is the write-up I used to make my own media blaster. It can do amazing things to the outside of any large thing (including my parent's driveway, why I made it in the first place). I've heard of people feeding sand through it to sandblast paint, but I haven't had a need to try that yet. The only "chemical" you spray is the baking soda, unless you decide to get some kind of fancy media. I never did. Just do yourself a favor and completely mask off the top and bottom of the block, as well as any holes where baking soda might get in. Coolant will dissolve any baking soda that gets inside, but you don't want to be spraying that stuff on your cylinder walls - that's what honing stones are for.

ferio-ichi3

Ooooo, them parts looked pretty clean! I did one side of the block, and i must say, it looks good for it being my 1st time. Mind you, there was spots i couldnt get into, but majority of it looks good!!

I think i will scratch the hot tanking. Spray can degreaser plus media blasting i think will work wonders. What you think of what i did so far?

jbpnoman

It looks good so far. Cleaning is all about how much time and work you're willing to put into it.

ferio-ichi3

I ran out of degreaser, so i started using baking soda haha. It does indeed work! I did a little bit of the other side. So tomorrow will be cleaning the block. You said make sure baking soda doesnt get on the cylinder walls.. What exactly will happen? Im looking to get a home anyway, so would it matter?

jbpnoman

It might damage your cylinder walls. I don't know if it will or not, I just make a habit of not letting anything that isn't oil, assembly lube, or a piston ring touch the cylinder walls. Best practice is what it is.

It wouldn't damage your cooling system, but if you do get some in your coolant channels, I'd do a coolant flush shortly after you first run the motor. Hot, pressurized coolant will pick any left over baking soda up (kind of like boiling it in a pot), but I'm no chemist, and I have no clue what it'll do to your coolant.

ferio-ichi3

Oh alright. At a decent time, ill head to autozone, get the best and most powerful degreaser, and just go to work!! Ill scrub all i can get, then ill do the baking soda media blasting, then hone. Is that the right order? Seems fine to me. Im still having a bit of issues understanding the bearings concept. I seen tutorials, and read up on it...but what if your crank dont match the block? Do i get the crank resurfaced? Or do i take it to a shop, and let them get the bearing clearances, then you just buy the bearings, or is there another step? Im sorry if it seems im asking novice questions, but once the build is done, i dont want to have to come back, saying the motor spun a bearing..It seems my build has made the few people that was here just leave...i guess once you start getting to non building, people lose interest

jbpnoman

It's all good man.

Yeah, but you can skip the degreaser if you're going to soda blast. Blast, hone, then assemble. For bearings from a non-matching block/crank, have a machine shop mic it out for you. They'll tell you what size bearings to order, then you can go from there.

ferio-ichi3

Ok understood!!! I did some searching just now, correct me if im wrong. But micing the crank will give me the measurement of each journal to make sure its within spec right? But what i dont follow is, once they see if its in spec or not, how would they tell me what bearing to get? Unless they measure the journal, then the space of the journal inside the cap. Then subtract those 2 numbers, then see what the clearance is supposed to be, then whatever number is equalled, ill get the bearing that has the difference of the oil clearance, and the number that i got from subtracting the journal, and the area???
Example- crank journal is 2 inches. The hole the crank journals sit in are 4 inches. So you have 2 inches of space, honda manual says oil clearance is .500 inches, would you get bearings that is 1.5 inches? Where does plastgaging come in at?

jbpnoman

That's basically how it works. The machine shop measures the size of your crank and rod journals, then the size of your crank. Subtract crank size from journal size, that gives you overall clearance. Subtract factory bearing clearance spec, and you get bearing size.

You plastigauge while assembling to make sure the measurements were correct.

ferio-ichi3

Thats a way easier way of explaining it. Nice!!!! Well Im glad i pretty much figured it out. Freaking guy keeps flaking. I need that crank, and the p30 pistons, which i havent heard from anyone. Maybe i should post a wtb thread in the marketplace? I only found .25mm overbore pistons online, which is cool and all, but i only want to hone, throw the pistons in, and have the bottom end complete.

ferio-ichi3

Ok, so i am Going to use the ls crank. Im going to the machine shop to get clearances, and to see if the block has been bored or not. Once i get the block back, ill be picking up the bearings, and ill be looking for a set of pistons. Im thinking nippon racing ctr pistons. What do you guys recommend?

jbpnoman

For an N/A, or mild turbo, there's nothing wrong with the Nippon pistons. Have you checked what CR you'll be running with them?

ferio-ichi3

I know roughly where id be. I havent did the zeal calculators or whatever. But i know itll be between 11.5 -12.7... Now those are the ycp pistons. The nippon pistons are a bit cheaper, but i read when your compression is too high, the tuner must retard all your power, and itll feel like a low compression. Plus me switching cranks at the last minute to the ls, compression drops, so i might get the nippon ones, or the ycp ones. I really want to be 11.8-.2.1 though.

jbpnoman

So you're sticking NA, got it. Those pistons should be fine for a budget build.

ferio-ichi3

Worddddddd, so we will see. Anything i should know running ls crank in gsr

jbpnoman

LS rod journals are a little bit bigger, so you'll have to use LS rods. You'll also need to either block off, or "move" the GSR block's oil squirters. Golden Eagle makes a blockoff kit.

ferio-ichi3

Yea i will block it off, imma take the bolts to lowes, and get a short screw thatll go right in, and call it a day. Would it make sense 2 bore the rod bolt holes to 9mm? I already have the arp rod bolts..