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faulty gas cap cause loss of fuel?

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Old 07-16-2007, 10:25 AM
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Default faulty gas cap cause loss of fuel?

When I get out of my car, there is a VERY strong fuel smell, esp from the gas cap area. I've noticed ive been getting around 25mpg lately, when I used to get 34mpg.


The smell is strong around the gas cap (checker gas cap)

could this be the reason im losing fuel? it still releases pressure when I open the cap to fill up.
Old 07-16-2007, 10:30 AM
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Usually when the gas cap's leaking you'll throw an evap purge light. Though it's possible that it's evaporating out of the cap.

Not to be an ******* or anything but a gas cap is $6.47 from slhondaparts.com. Probably like 10 bux at the dealership to pick it up directly, even less than 6 at hondapartsdeals.com.

Pick up a new gas cap, see what happens.

http://slhondaparts.com/browse...1-A03
Old 07-16-2007, 01:04 PM
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Default Re: faulty gas cap cause loss of fuel? (MidwestCivic)

You may want to pressure test your gas tank for an evap leak, make sure all your evap hoses are connected and tight. This test is mandatory now for most state inspections, but it is the reverse, its a vacuum test, and if you have even the tiniest leak, you will fail (old standard use to be max .010"/hg and now it is 0"hg.)

If your fuel mileage all of a sudden decreased, I would check your supply and return lines for a leak. Gas does not evaporate that fast.
Old 07-16-2007, 01:56 PM
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yea but im OBD-2, wouldnt that throw a code fellas?
Old 07-16-2007, 02:10 PM
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Default Re: (MidwestCivic)

That monitor has to run in VERY PRECISE conditions so that it does not affect engine performance, it may not purge for up to 4 days or so, it all depends on how much the gas vaporizes. If the fuel tank pressure sensor detects atmospheric pressure in the tank twice or more, it will throw a code, because it suspects that the vapors are leaking out of the tank before the valve can purge them. Most of the time a faulty gas cap will set it off, but it may not set it off for a while. It is a very picky monitor.
Old 07-16-2007, 02:23 PM
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ok so the only problem i know of is this;

The evap canister drain hose at the bottom isnt connected to anything. So when I pressurize the evap canister, the air leaks down the bottom.

I dont know if this has to be capped? I do know a while back I put a breather filter on the bottom of the evap canister (1996 d16y8 sedan- black canister) and the filter was COVERED in rocks and sand.

im keen on the EVAP system, but not specifically on the canisters drain system, is it supposed to hold a vacuum? otherwise all hoses are pretty tight (braided hose)....ill check for a leak, since my plugs are showing lean, but my fuel pressure is steady at factory spec and releases pressure on the FPR down to 0 after about 15-20 minutes (somewhere around factory spec)
Old 07-16-2007, 02:40 PM
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Default Re: (MidwestCivic)

The vent tube is there to allow air to enter the system when the fuel pump empties the fuel tank which creates a vacuum, so that it does not strain the fuel pump, it is not supposed to let any pressure out, but keep atmospheric pressure or greater in.
Old 07-16-2007, 02:45 PM
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so when I cover one of the purge ports on the top of hte canister, and blow on the other one, air leaks out the bottom of the evap canister throught the drain nozzle in the bottom. I thought it was supposed to let fuel drain out? Does this mean the canister is defective? Im not getting any CELs.

the biggest thing here is fuel is leaking somewhere, on very sharp turns, or when I get out of hte car after turning it off, I can totally smell it. I have the PCV system hooked up now, so its not that.
Old 07-16-2007, 02:59 PM
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Default Re: (MidwestCivic)

Letting fuel drain out completely negates the purpose of having an EVAP system, to recover fuel vapors so they can be burned.

You might want to check your gas tank for leaks. Check your FPR vacuum hose and make sure it doesn't have fuel in it, if it does, its shot.
Old 07-16-2007, 03:05 PM
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Default Re: (slowcivic2k)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Letting fuel drain out completely negates the purpose of having an EVAP system, to recover fuel vapors so they can be burned.

You might want to check your gas tank for leaks. Check your FPR vacuum hose and make sure it doesn't have fuel in it, if it does, its shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So should I add a check valve (spare pcv valve) on the botton of the evap canister for a temp fix? to only allow air in, not out?

FPR hose doesnt have fuel in it, no leaks on the ground by gas tank, only place it seems to be leaking is the gas cap area. I also have a bogging problem, throttle response problem. ive tried 2 o2 sensors so that rules it out.
Old 07-16-2007, 03:45 PM
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Default Re: (MidwestCivic)

There is a 3 way valve already in that line to provide that function, if it is faulty that could cause you to smell fuel vapors underhood when you are refueling. A faulty vent shut valve could also do this if it were to stick open. A one way valve would work as a short term fix...

If your leaking fuel on your filler neck I would find out where and why...
Old 07-16-2007, 03:49 PM
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cool, civic2k, do you know where the 3way valve is on the evap system? is it the valve halfway between the fuel tank and evap canister?

or is there on somewhere down teh drain tube. I dont have my helms here at work
Old 07-17-2007, 04:44 PM
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Default Re: (MidwestCivic)

It's in the vent tube that runs down from the canister, if I am not mistaken the inlet filter and 3-way valve are a one piece part.
Old 07-17-2007, 05:31 PM
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Default Re: (Syndacate)

You forgot to factor in shipping. It'd probably be cheaper to buy from the dealership in this case, it they're $10 there.
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