blackeg

well its my spring break, and im way to poor to go anywhere, so i figured i'd work on my car. since the b16 manifold has shorter runners and is better for higher rpm flow, i figured it would be a nice addition to my b18b, especially after i boost it. first a little side by side pic action- the ls manifold here is the one on the right painted black


3 of the manifold studs on the ls head dont line up to the b16 manifold. consequently, i had to drill out 2 holes on the mani to allow the use of 2 them.


the 3rd one is physically off the bottom of the b16 mani down by the coolant passage. not sure what im gonna do about this one yet, i might make a bracket or something, or just do a few extra ft/lbs on the other ones and forget about this guy



for the stud that goes through where the coolant passage is on the b16 mani, the outside needs to be filed down a little to provide a rather flush surface for the nut to put pressure on. you can kinda see where i started on it in the pic below. its not finished yet



the next issue is the coolant passage itself. the b16 has it higher up on the manifold than the ls motor does. im grinding down the bottom of the b16 manifold around where the ls coolant passage would overlap to create more clearance, and using a brass fitting to put in the head and attatch the coolant hose to, thereby bypassing the coolant flowing through the manifold at this point.


as for the other hole in the head right by the coolant passage, the ls manifold just blocks it off, but the b16 mani does not cover it up all the way. i think im gonna just use a brass plug and plug it.

i have to get some more grinding bits later today. ill be working on this over the next week or 2 and will add some more pics when i get it all up and running

blackeg

got more grinding bits today, so im probably gonna finish it up later today.

whats the best way to plug the other hole by the coolant passage, besides tapping it and using a fitting? i hate to say it but i was just thinking of adding a little quicksteel to the bottom of the manifold to finish covering it. there is only a small area of it exposed

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the best way to plug the other hole by the coolant passage, besides tapping it and using a fitting? i hate to say it but i was just thinking of adding a little quicksteel to the bottom of the manifold to finish covering it. there is only a small area of it exposed</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you do it right, quicksteel/JB weld will work just fine .

Why exactly are you going through all the trouble of fabbing this up? Is the Blox or Skunk manifold out or your price range? Just curious, perhaps?

Regardless, great write up so far and good luck .

WestEM1

i did similiar work on my car..changed the b16 IM to the B18C5 IM on my car...it was a bitch for me...anyways...nice work..hopefully u get it installed properly soon

Bump

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why exactly are you going through all the trouble of fabbing this up? Is the Blox or Skunk manifold out or your price range? Just curious, perhaps?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


sad as it seems, yea kinda, at least until the semester is over and i can work more.

i got the manifold for 30 bucks a few months ago not knowing it wouldnt totally bolt up. i tried to sell it so i wouldnt loose cash after shipping, but it didnt go so well. if i can pull this off, which im pretty confident it will work, i should pick up some nice gains above 5k rpm on my ls motor, especially with the t3/t4 57 trim im slappin on there soon

B16aDasher

nice writeup let us know how it works out.

blackeg

worked on it some more today. im pretty much ready to slap it on, but i dont know exactly when thats gonna happen.

i finished grinding down the bottom of the manifold to allow clearance for the coolant hose. i also had to bore out the hole on the intake gasket a little bit to allow clearance for the new fitting

now for plugging the extra hole, i decided to fill the hole on the intake gasket, rather than plug it on the head. this way i will be able to switch this over a little easier when i blow up my current motor. i actually put a washer in the hole on the gasket, and filled around it with quicksteel. im probably going to use a little liquid gasket on the inside portion of this area, to help insure a full seal. thanks to dayton imports for the good deal on the heatshield gasket

well there ya go. all i really have to do now is get the alan bolt, and clean out all the metal shavings and grease from the inside of the manifold.

it should be noted that i will have to move my evap purge soleniod from the manifold where it sits on the ls to the firewall and run a vacuum hose to it from the mani. not a big deal


Modified by blackeg at 12:14 PM 3/30/2005


Modified by blackeg at 10:30 AM 4/5/2005


Modified by blackeg at 11:40 AM 4/22/2005

blackeg

its on!!!

no leaking coolant and no noticeable vacuum leaks. i put about 50 miles on it since the install, but im gonna keep an eye on it for a while too see if anything pops up. butt dyno says that my motor might rev a tiny bit faster in the higher rpms, but im sure its only like 3 hp i gained up there right now. should be a slightly different story with the snail, which i should have running with some dyno charts in the next month or so






Modified by blackeg at 11:10 PM 4/5/2005

josephcmiller2

I just finished installing a B16 manifold on my LS. Not too much work, but it's been 30 degrees outside and I'm tired of working in the freezing weather.

It is a 1/2in pipe thread with a 5/8in barb for the coolant. You will need a hose clamp that you can screw tighten.

On the manifold flange, between runners 2 and 3, there is a bolt hole near the top of the flange. This part of the flange will hit a plug on the head. It is necessary to grind down this part of the flange to get it to clear.

Several people mentioned this, but I'll say it again, you can NOT use JB Weld to plug the EGR port. I know because I ignored all those people and the JB Weld melted in about 60 seconds after starting the engine.

I drilled out holes on the manifold for studs that didn't match up. Don't bother. Instead I should have just removed the studs from the head and ended up doing that anyways. The good news is that I can now remove my manifold without dumping 3 gallons of water on the floor. The bad news is that it's still 30 degrees outside.

You will need an OBD0 throttle body for this swap and an OBD0 IACV (idle air control valve). I tried to modify an OBD1 throttle body and it won't work because the fast idle valve on the throttle body is in the way of the fast idle valve on the intake manifold.

I have a stock bottom end and Crower stage 2 cams. As far as I can tell, my car is now a lot slower. Doesn't make any sense. The engine is a fresh build with good compression. I'll figure out what is wrong and post it.

Red_Army

becuase you switched to an OBD0 for probably no reason.

most b16's are obd1 some are 2.

but to the OP nice work. should of had it CNC'd before you threw it on there.