cwsst2

I have a d15b7 motor that had spun bearings. I decided to rebuild bottom end. Everything was cleaned, installed, and replaced properly. There is no problem in the bottom end. While I waited for my parts to come in for the bottom end, I decided to take apart the head and clean it too. Took all the carbon build up off the vavles, vavles looked pretty good so I did not replace them, also put new vavle stem seals in, and cleaned all other parts very good and everything looked good. Put everything back together and started it up and immeditally noticed a tick. Figured it was kinda normal since everything was so clean and the engine is pretty much new. So I put about 700 miles on it changed the oil once already with a thicker oil but it still ticks, its a little bit more quite but its still really noticable.

I have researching on here for about a week now, did a valve adjustment 3 times and it still ticks. Its not the injectors its too loud to be that. I am also only getting about 20 miles to the gallon right now when I should be getting close to 40. I did the screwdriver trick to see where its comming from and its comming from the head. Also tried checking for exhaust leaks and I dont think I have one.

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!

cwsst2

anyone with any input?

itsmejto

You say it's coming from the head, is there any particular area that's louder than most ?
Any CEL's ?
If you replaced the timing belt, did you use a genuine honda belt ? some are badly joined and tick once per revolution.
did you replace the valves in the guides they were removed from ?
Did you lap grind (paste and sucker stick) the valves to seat them correctly ?
Did you remove the rockers and replace them in order they came out ?
all this is important if you are not using new or machined parts when re-assembling.
Did you use new rings, one may be cracked.
I'ts hard to say exactly what it may be, maybe a good audio recording might help some if you can post one on utube etc.
Is the ticking relative to rpms ?, or once per revolution or much less indication it may be just one valve ticking, tried listerning without the valve cover on (bit messy but sometimes lets you hear it better) Use lots of poly sheet if you do this.

cwsst2

All my answers are in the order you asked me

-Not really but it might sound like its comming from the exhaust side more then intake side
-No
-Brand new timming belt, not honda but good belt from advance auto tho
-No valves were replaced, ripped apart the whole head and put it back together the same way I took it apart, followed a haynes manual step by step.
-I do not know anything about this, I used a Haynes manual to follow and it did not say anything about this, more input about this may be the key to my problem.
-I did not touch the rocker arm assembally other then clean it, it comes out all at once.
all this is important if you are not using new or machined parts when re-assembling.
-Everything in the bottom end is new
-Ill see what I can do about the audio recording tomorrow once I get off work.
-It seems to be the worse at idle, but I push in the gas and baby it and it seems like it gets worse as the rpms increase but once i let the gas off it seems to be not make noise, even though I know its still making noise.
-Ill try that too thanks for your input.

cwsst2

bump

ChevelleSSLS6

a) was it a quality USA/Japan belt or chinese/mexican/cheap labor? If I can't get a USA or Japan made part at one store, I'll go to another and another.... in my opinion china=china, so if the good is china and the cheap is china, it's all the same cheap foreign labor to me, and I avoid it at any possible cost (including tools and clothes and everything). If no quality parts can be found, then I go OEM (dealer, not part brand... OEM brand chassis parts at advance are all chinese, and the cheapest ones there).


b) did you put the valves back in the same location they were removed from (intake port 1, cylinder 1, intake port 2, cyl 1, etc)?

cwsst2

I had a thousand parts lying all over my garage but I am pretty sure I put it back together the way it came out.

Say I didnt by some stupid odd reason, is there a way to check it/try and fix it?

wudini

are you sure it's not your injectors?

cwsst2

Yes its too loud to be the injectors, I have to get to work but when I get home ill be trying a couple things that was recommended. Thanks for everyones input so far hopefully I get somewhere today.

cwsst2

[quote=itsmejto;36553912]
Did you lap grind (paste and sucker stick) the valves to seat them correctly ?


Was wondering what this is?
And I am going to get an audio recording and post it tomorrow morning some time.

cwsst2

cwsst2

bump

trying to get a video on here as we speak!

cwsst2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kSzvAQQ-UM

its Pretty good let me know what you guys thinks PLEASE!

itsmejto

definately a valve or two, bad ajustment possibly.
REad the haynes manual on exactly how to ajust them correctly, do em cold and with the cyl at tdc.
In answer to the valve lapping. That is where you put a special grinding paste on both the valve and seat and with a sucker on a stick, you pollish both till they are greyish indicating they are a perfect match to eachother, it's in the haynes manual too. Bit like starting a fire with rubbing a sticks together between the palms of both hands.

cwsst2

I know what I am doing with the vavle adjustments ill try another cause you never know. Ill look at the haynes manual again too to try and understand everything better. Thank you for your help itsmejto ill let you know how everything goes.

Semih166

I just did valve adjustment on my 96 civic (250k), and now the engine is louder. i removed the spark plugs before i remove valve cover. Shouldn't have i done it ? And i think it is little difficult to align the cyclinder at TDC, it is almost impossible to be accurate. i bought the car at 100k, and didnt replaced the timing belt yet. When i took the valve cover off, i also took timing belt cover off and saw that belt was loose on one side. i didnt replace the belt though, there was no crack or worn out sign except being loose. Is it possible to make the belt tight by tightining up the tensionar bolt ? Thank you for any help .

Jonathan_ED3

What does it sound like if you rev it?

Could it be an exhaust leak at the manifold? That's a VERY loud tick. Especially for a fresh bottom end and kind of (?) fresh head.

Semih166 - replace your dang timing belt! You have at least 150K miles on that belt. Probably 250K unless the previous owner replaced it before you got it.

It's cheap insurance at ~$30-50 depending on where you buy it. Replace your water pump too!'

BTW, what do you mean the belt is "loose"? The routing of the belt is such that one side of the belt always seems looser than the other because it's got more distance to cover than the opposite side where it routes around the water pump and such. How much deflection is there?

Semih166

I think deflection is almost an inch, i should say.

jvillagran2000

any updates...have you fixed the problem yet?

cwsst2

I will be working on the car today. And it is not an exhaust leak, there actually was on but i found it and fixed that. I will let you know what redoing the ignition timming and redoing the valve adjusment gets me.

cwsst2

well the reason i am getting bad gas mileage was because my timing was off a tooth on the cam gear

and i reset my vavle clearences to .006 and .008 and it is so quite now

Thanks honda-tech