WAUKEENEM1

As the title says, swap my b16 tranny for a gsr on my em1 turbo due to broken ring gear. I've also replaced the front lcas,sb endlinks, new autonzone axles, and adjust the front camber ball joints from neutral to slightly positive cuz the wheels were slightly pointed inward.
The issue im having is a slight vibration during hard acceleration coming front driver side wheel/axle.
But my biggest concern is the ride is pretty hard n bouncy. Not sure if thats normal after lcas replacement due to harder bushing. What r u guys thoughts?

Former User

Might the issue be the axle itself?

WAUKEENEM1

Axle might be the cause of vibration but not sure about the hard bouncy ride through

Former User

Definitely not. I should have written that.

TomCat39

Can you clarify what you mean by this?

Do you mean aftermarket higher durometer bushings (literally harder than oem) or do you mean replaced with new OEM bushing so harder as in not worn out?

WAUKEENEM1

Its aftermarket oem replacement front lcas, the oem si lca bushing was bad on pass side so i replaced both. What i meant is, is it possible that new lca bushing might still be a little harder/stiffer n need some miles for it to break in so it settle/worn in? Hope this make a little more sense.
Could the camber changed also affected the ride quality? I mean its a stiff ride with omni coilovers but it just feels a lot harder after those parts replaced. When u go over bumps or bad road the car Will literally swere one side n the impact feels like its way over inflated,feels like it literally hit the rim.

Thor294

Your ride will be harder because the rubber OEM bushings absorb some impact.... "Bouncy" usually means a shock/strut isn't doinf its job.

You sure you installed everything properly?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Bouncy could also mean your alignment is out of whack. You need to have it professionally aligned - eyeballing your camber and toe settings is a very bad idea.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Alignments don't cause or cure bounce.

But if the car is skipping over bumps and banging into cracks in the road...that would be because OP changed the camber angle and now the toe angles are out of wack as well. So...harshness issues would be caused by an alignment...but not bounce. The toe angles likely also change due to all the new components. Get an alignment, OP.

Maybe "bouncy" is not the right word. Bouncy is like a pogo stick or a trampoline. Harsh is like a skateboard. Which one do you have?

The vibrations are likely because you let an axle dangle too far or you pulled on it while you were installing it and it popped out of place. Or you bought cheap axles that can't handle the lowness of your car.

WAUKEENEM1

Appreciate all the replies. Im pretty sure i installed them correctly. Only goes in one way, n made sure which is left n right side. Im sure the alignment is off but just can't believed the ride is this hard. Its feels like the suspension doesn't absorbed any impact at all. like someone said skateboard hard n swervy.
I'll put the camber back into its neutral position n see if it changes anything n i know it needs an alignment.
The axles are brand new not reman autozone, but then again it's autozone. When i installed the driver side it click in the first time, it's the pass side that i had to fight it a little bit,but i did not pulled it hard. I gently pried it s flathead n tried it again untill it clicks in.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The car rides hard because your toe angles are off. So your tires are hitting bumps while turned.

An alignment fixes that.

Vasi

Did you properly torque the suspension bolts, and did you torque them with the wheels supported, or with the wheels hanging down?

I did a polyurethane bushing install on another car before, tightening up with the suspension hanging and guessing the torque by hand. The force required to compress the suspension because of those bushings' interference with their mounts made the car feel like it had over-stiff shocks.

With regular rubber that still shears and doesn't force a rotation of the bushing in the mounting bracket, the bushing stays where it is torqued, and then actually distorts as the control arm sweeps through its motion. If you torque it while it's hanging down, it will require more force to compress the spring, which would translate into a stiffer bump.

As for the vibration and instability; toe is corrected by adjusting the tie-rod length. If you have adjustable UCAs and moved your camber positive, you have multiple alignment issues that are causing your tires to fight against each other and the road. Like everybody is saying; get an alignment.

WAUKEENEM1

Ok, i definitely needs an alignment asap. I did not torque the lcas when installed them. I used a weak impact gun n then socket wrench to tighten them. Front wheels were supported with jack stands when installed/tighten all nuts/bolts.
Should i loosen all the bolts n properly torque them or would an alignment fix my issue.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

-You cannot tighten rubber bushings down when the wheels are just sitting there at droop. You have to tighten bushings with the car at ride height. Loosen all the bolts for the arms/bushings. Tighten them at ride height. You can jack up the LCA or you can actually set the car on a ramp or a drive on lift or the ground.

-you need an alignment after that.

WAUKEENEM1

This applies to the front lcas, one piece design on em1,right? Just have to figured how to torque those bolts while the wheels are still on thr ground.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Applies to almost all of the rubber suspension bushings. They have to be tightened at ride height